Cold Start

Any one else's DR650 a bear to start in the cold? My 2007 is about as cold-natured as they come! Takes forever to start...

Anyone have any tips? I've been choking, not touching the throttle, and hitting the electric start. Takes forever though... I'm afraid I'm going to drain the battery...

Thanks y'all.

Adam

I sometimes have trouble if the DR has been sitting for a couple of weeks. The last couple of times I have turned the fuel petcock on to prime for a few seconds to make sure that the carb is full then pulled the choke and hit the starter, it fires up on the second compression.

i figger that as I always park up with the motor hot and it gets left for aweek or so that the gas has evorated out of the fuel bowl.

Make sure your choke cable is adjusted properly... if there is too much play it will not open the enrichening circuit far enough. If your idle is set too high it will take away from the available vacuum/velocity for the enrichening circuit to draw fuel out of the float bowl. A float level that is too low will affect the enrichening circuit (and the other circuits as well) and any type of vacuum leak will affect starting.

I agree with MX_ROB, check your choke. Also, is yours driven daily? I think that tends to make a big difference in cold weather. My '02 has started in temps down to 9 degrees Fahrenheit and taken me to work, but it's driven daily. Even has the original battery.

+1 Another good point.... if it has been sitting for any length of time turning the petcock to prime, with the bike vertical, will make sure you have the maximum fuel level in the float bowl. This could help if evaporation of the fuel in the carb has taken place.

Thanks guys... Yeah, I drive it daily. Usually not a problem, but then again it hasn't been below about 50 until this week... Now it is in the teens. I just bought the bike this summer, so...

What's funny is, after I get home in the afternoon the last two days the high is only in the 30s, but it fires right up!

I just posted asking questions about the choke... Probably should have just replied here! My engine doesn't "sound" like it changes with the choke lever engaged... That's not normal, right? Also, the lever only moves about an inch and a half or so?

I reckon I'm just going to have to take the tank off and trace the cable, right?

Thanks so much guys.

Adam

Thanks guys... Yeah, I drive it daily. Usually not a problem, but then again it hasn't been below about 50 until this week... Now it is in the teens. I just bought the bike this summer, so...

What's funny is, after I get home in the afternoon the last two days the high is only in the 30s, but it fires right up!

I just posted asking questions about the choke... Probably should have just replied here! My engine doesn't "sound" like it changes with the choke lever engaged... That's not normal, right? Also, the lever only moves about an inch and a half or so?

I reckon I'm just going to have to take the tank off and trace the cable, right?

Thanks so much guys.

Adam

What you could do is remove the choke from the carb, then work the lever. If you see the starter plunger(brass thingy) moving back and forth, then you may have another problem. Or maybe it was hung up and removing it from the carb and carefully reinstalling it could fix your problem. Moving the choke should affect the engine speed when you're idling. Also with mine, if the engine is warm and I try to use the choke, it won't start, or will start with difficulty.

Good luck!

Kevin

I've got the same issue with cold starting, since I've done the FCR its been a bear to start cold. I almost kill the battery the other day until I realized on of the spark plug wires was off! Duh...

I set my idle at 3-4k before I shut it down thinking that might help at start up but I see rob mentioned if its too high it interferes with the enrichment??? opps

Also my little choke pully outy thing doesn't stay open, is that normal? Most all I've had stay in place. I like the little knob, simple as pie but I've had to hold it for quite a while that past couple of starts, even after it sat for only 45min. to an hour. Of course its cold as hell at 28degrees too... Good post btw, I love this place!

I've got the same issue with cold starting, since I've done the FCR its been a bear to start cold. I almost kill the battery the other day until I realized on of the spark plug wires was off! Duh...

I set my idle at 3-4k before I shut it down thinking that might help at start up but I see rob mentioned if its too high it interferes with the enrichment??? opps

Also my little choke pully outy thing doesn't stay open, is that normal? Most all I've had stay in place. I like the little knob, simple as pie but I've had to hold it for quite a while that past couple of starts, even after it sat for only 45min. to an hour. Of course its cold as hell at 28degrees too... Good post btw, I love this place!

Replace the choke assembly. Not only should it stay open when pulled out all the way the YFZ450 choke assembly has a middle position. With the accel pump in the FCR all you need to do is twist the throttle about 3 times and pop out the choke. It should fire right up... just run it a couple seconds and then pop the choke to the middle position. (All of this is based on the YFZ450 carb mormal choke circuit jet size).

I've got the same issue with cold starting, since I've done the FCR its been a bear to start cold.

Me too! I installed the FCR a few weeks ago and have found it hesitant to start. While waiting for the carb I also made my first personal attempt to adjust the valves (the dealership did the 600-mile adjustment). Once I installed the FCR and encountered difficult starting, I became paranoid about the valves and thought that I didn't set them properly (I read that tight valves will make for a hard-starting bike). So, I tore back into the valves and re-adjusted them - I did find them a little on the tight side! It cranks a little easier now, but during the first minute or two it does not want to idle on it's own; it idles way too low, and I have to manually hold the throttle open a little in order to keep it going. I place the pull-out choke in the middle position to help with the initial start, but then after a few seconds the choke actually makes it run a lot rougher and more sporadic. I tried the choke in the full out position, but it will kill the bike.

So, what's going on? I have to hold the throttle open for the first two-three minutes in order to warm the bike up, and the choke actually makes things worse! Once the bike is fully warmed it idles fine at about 1300-1400 RPM, and it runs well. Any ideas as to why it's hard to start and will not idle on its own when cold?

Edited by DR Da-da
Me too! I installed the FCR a few weeks ago and have found it hesitant to start. While waiting for the carb I also made my first personal attempt to adjust the valves (the dealership did the 600-mile adjustment). Once I installed the FCR and encountered difficult starting, I became paranoid about the valves and thought that I didn't set them properly (I read that tight valves will make for a hard-starting bike). So, I tore back into the valves and re-adjusted them - I did find them a little on the tight side! It cranks a little easier now, but during the first minute or two it does not want to idle on it's own; it idles way too low, and I have to manually hold the throttle open a little in order to keep it going. I place the pull-out choke in the middle position to help with the initial start, put then after a few seconds the choke actually makes it run a lot rougher and more sporadic. I tried the choke in the full out position, but it will kill the bike.

So, what's going on? I have to hold the throttle open for the first two-three minutes in order to warm the bike up, and the choke actually makes things worse! Once the bike is fully warmed it idles fine at about 1300-1400 RPM, and it runs well. Any ideas as to why it's hard to start and will not idle on its own when cold?

The choke jet in the YFZ450 carb is too rich for the DR650 to run on full choke. I don't change them because the choke has the second position. Start the bike on full choke and move the choke to the mid position right away. You can let it idle or ride for a few blocks on that position while the engine warms up a bit without it being overly rich. Then just pop it off. :thumbsup:

Edited by mx_rob
The choke jet in the YFZ450 carb is too rich for the DR650 to run on full choke. I don't change them because the choke has the second position. Start the bike on full choke and move the choke to the mid position right away. You can let it idle or ride for a few blocks on that position while the engine warms up a bit without it being overly rich. Then just pop is off. :thumbsup:

Not the same for the KTM choke I assume? I'm thinking about a longer cable type choke with a fixed mount somewhere IF it has the ability to stay open! I dont ming holding it for a minute or so but it's a pita when I want to get on and roll out. Is there a different choke I can get that stays open? I prefer the little stubby one frankly!

Bitterly cold minus 18 Celcius here this morning (that's about -4 Fahrenheit for you Americans).... I've got a TM-40 carb and a 7 year old battery. Engine fires up quickly, but only for second or two and then it dies. This repeats several times before it wants to stay running. With my weak battery and the extreme cold, I don't get many chances before the battery runs out of steam... so here's my trick:

5 minutes before I leave for work, I setup a hair dryer on a wooden stool, pointing straight at the exhaust header flange bolts. Get the whole upper cylinder nice and warm. Winthing a few minutes the engine fires right up and will stay running. I usually crank the idle high for a minute or two while she warms up, choke on full.

Fortunately, the parking garage at work is heated. And, yes, I will buy a new battery over the winter.

Not the same for the KTM choke I assume? I'm thinking about a longer cable type choke with a fixed mount somewhere IF it has the ability to stay open! I dont ming holding it for a minute or so but it's a pita when I want to get on and roll out. Is there a different choke I can get that stays open? I prefer the little stubby one frankly!

The KTM carb may have a smaller choke circuit jet. The YFZ450's came with #80 and #90 jets depending on the year model. The choke units all have a detent position. The fact that yours does not just means it needs to be replaced. Not all of the chokes have the second detent position. I know for sure the YFZ450 choke units do. They are all the same fitment wise so you can buy the YFZ450 choke for your KTM carb. You can also just use the stock BST choke and cable set up if you want. Fits right into the FCR. You just have to adjust the cable play a bit so the choke opens far enough.

Bitterly cold minus 18 Celcius here this morning (that's about -4 Fahrenheit for you Americans).... I've got a TM-40 carb and a 7 year old battery. Engine fires up quickly, but only for second or two and then it dies. This repeats several times before it wants to stay running. With my weak battery and the extreme cold, I don't get many chances before the battery runs out of steam... so here's my trick:

5 minutes before I leave for work, I setup a hair dryer on a wooden stool, pointing straight at the exhaust header flange bolts. Get the whole upper cylinder nice and warm. Winthing a few minutes the engine fires right up and will stay running. I usually crank the idle high for a minute or two while she warms up, choke on full.

Fortunately, the parking garage at work is heated. And, yes, I will buy a new battery over the winter.

Minus 18degC OMG how can you handle that?

Well, there's no highway riding... just 10 minutes across the city to get to the office. I'm not much of a morning person, and the cold sure wakes you up pretty quick. And it makes the hot coffee at the office taste that much better. As long as the streets are clear and dry, I'm good to go. Last winter, I remember riding to work in -25 C. That was the worst. But the heated parking garage at work is real nice when you arrive.

Hey boys... Thought I'd give you an update (I'm sure you've been waiting in suspense...)

Apparently the plastic cover on the choke cable had cracked right where it goes into the carb. This allowed it to get wet and rust. When I took it apart, I realized that the cable had broken in two inside the protective casing. I ordered a hand choke from Jesse at Kientech. (HIGHLY recommend Jesse by the way... He and his wife Janet were more than helpful...) Installed the hand choke and, voila, no more cold start problems...

Thanks for all the help guys...

Oh, and -25???? Don't I now feel like a pansy for complaining about "freezing" NC temperatures!! Ha!! Hats off to you brother...

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