Leak above the AP on MY FCR

[rideitfixitrideit]

Have a 2000 E w/ a FCR carb. The tube that comes out above my AP has a slow leak. What needs to be replaced?

Is the diaphram bad causing the leak?

I am also going to replace the pilot jet and the o-rings at the AP.

Could I get the jetting specs. I am at or above sea level.

I have a 160 Main Jet and the snorkel out.

[smrookie]

A torn/ripped diaphram would be my guess.?

I had the same problem a while back, and it ended up being the diaphram as the culprit. Gas would leak up the ap rod tube after I open the throttle.

[William1]

+2 on the damaged diaphragm.

Before you screw up the jetting by changing anything, how does the bike run?

(obviously, accelerationwill be poor with a broken AP)

[Wayward Son]

diaphram.

[rideitfixitrideit]

"Before you screw up the jetting by changing anything, how does the bike run?"

The bike runs good except for a bog from 0-1/4 throttle.

Also the choke doesn't cause the rpm's to raise noticeably when on and most of the time it closes on its own. Is this odd?

It is still needed when the bike is cold and seems to work properly.

I did the Eddie mod in the beginning of the season.

I am going to order an EMN needle (since running stock), the two AP O-rings and the diaphragm plus what ever else I need (would like to save in shipping).

I would also like to replace the pilot jet since it is original. I was hoping to confirm that I need a 45 pilot, which is why asked for the jetting specs. I had them but they were lost during the new/old format change.

Thanks for your help!

[William1]

The bog will probably go away with the new diaphragm.

45 pilot should be correct, but it you are going to ride in winter having a 48 on hand also may not be a bad idea.

Fuel screw settings in the 'book' are recommended starting points. Every bike is different, as is the temp and altitude. Set the screw according to this method. Do it with the bike fully heated up.

Gently turn the screw all the way in. Now back it out two turns. Start the bike and fully warm it up, go for a 10 minute ride. Set the idle to speed to 1,500~1,800 RPM as best you can (I know, without a tach this is tough, just set it to were it idles relatively smoothly). Once warmed, slow the idle to the lowest possible speed.

*** When turning the fuel screw, keep an accurate 'count' of the amount you are turning it and record it in case you have to reset it for some reason. Makes life easier when you can just set it from notes Vs. going through the procedure again.***

Turn the screw in until the idle becomes rough or the bike stalls.

if it stalled, open the screw about 1/4 more turn. Restart it and slowly screw it in till you can just perceive a change.

If the screw can be turned all the way in and the bike still idles perfectly and does not stall, then you need to go down a size in pilot jet.

Now very slowly, open the fuel screw till the idle is smooth. Blip the throttle, let the bike return to an idle, wait say ten seconds. Confirm it is the same smooth idle.

If the screw has to be opened more than 3 turns to get a smooth idle, you need to go up a size in pilot jet.

If you find it does not stall with the larger jet but has to be open more than three turns with the smaller pilot jet, put the larger one in and set the fuel screw at 1/2 turn.

If the idle speed increased, adjust the idle speed knob to return the bike to a real slow idle speed. You must then re-visit the fuel screw. Keep doing this till the fuel screw is opened just enough to provide a nice steady idle at the lowest possible RPM. Once this is done, increase the idle speed to the normal one for your bike, typically about 1,800 rpm, but go by the spec in your manual.

[rideitfixitrideit]

Thanks for taking the time to type that up. I will order the parts asap. I can't wait to get My squirt gun fixed.

With the eddie mod is the object to get the most fuel to squirt out of the AP? (just clearing the slide)

Also clean up the slop in the linkage?

[Wayward Son]

deliver the entire squirt early in the stroke.