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Suspension SetUp

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Maybe I'll get a better response here than in the "Suspension" forum.

Is there a "general rule of thumb" for setting rebound and compression dampening if your weight is less than the stock setup? The owner's manual says the stock oem springs and rebound/compression clicker settings are for a 176# rider. I weigh 145# with another 10# for gear and tool belt. I put a lighter spring on the shock (huge difference over stock) and am looking for direction to setup the rebound/compression clickers. I'm thinking less rebound and less compression for a lighter rider. I don't want to spend $$$ to get the forks and shock revalved, just want to get the best out of what I've got.

'09 KTM 200XC-W

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I just had a lengthy conversation with my tuner tonight. Tuning susp is often a game of opposites. IOW, what you think you should to to correct an issue is often the opposite of what you should do. Many think that a harsh feeling needs less compression damping, when in fact it often is the midvalve that is controlling, affecting the action felt. They end up with the compression clicker almost all the way out (full bleed), when that is not the issue.

If you really want to feel the affect the MV has on the system, run the rebound clicker all the way in. Ride around, on gravel or whatever and you will feel every bump, every gravel you hit. Remember, the MV stack sits opposite the R stack and is controlled by the R clicker. If you open up the R too far, sometimes by only 4 clicks or so, the fluid bypasses the MV, then you get that spike as the compression valve comes into play, represented by a stinging in the hands, and that bap bap bap you get hitting trail trash. I experienced this last weekend. I was feeling a little stiffness after a service of the forks, so I went out 2 clicks on R. It got worse. I went back in 4 and it got better.

I would start close to stock settings and work your way in both directions by moving the clickers 2 at a time, C and R, till you are happy. To really know how to tune susp, you really need to gain an understanding of what affects what and know why the bike is responding the way it is.

also depends on how the bike is reacting. If it is nosing over a jump or water break, it's obvious you need more R damping in the shock.

The other opposite is that often the shock drives the front and can have you chasing your tail adjusting the front when the issue is out back.

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GMoss is onto something. Seems like KTM's in particular have s sensitivity to shock sag settings. I would start there. Have someone knowledgeable (if this isn't you) help you get the shock sag set according to factory specs or see if riders using your bike (and of similar stature) are using that or a different sag setting.

Then you can run the recommended (stock) clicker settings to start your testing.

I'm having new springs installed in my suspension as I write this and that will be my first step. I'll have my bike at the mechanics garage for sag setting.

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