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Help me put a Lynx on my '10 TE 450, electrical help

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am ordering a Lynx from Britannia, here's a portion of Ian's email reply to me:

"""One issue that I think you need to look into is the electrical output. The HID's draw 35w each and, as you point out, if they are wired to alternate (no problem) then you will only draw the same as the OEM light. But, what I'm not sure about is that I think your OEM light operates on an AC circuit, whereas ours draw their DC power direct from the battery (and are 'triggered' by your OEM lighting circuit via relays). I'm not knowledgable enough about the electrics on your bike to know whether there is enough charging power to the battery to replace the 35w coming out, even if the OEM light circuit is no longer being used. In other words, does the power from the unused headlight, go back into the battery, or not."""

Does the 2010 TE450 headlight run on AC?

Until I upgrade the alternator, I will be wiring the low and high beams to "alternate" (only one on at a time).

I am assuming that the relay he talks about (in bold) is the relay that waits until the motor is running to turn on the headlights. Am I correct?

I am assuming that the unused stock headlight wattage will end up going to the battery. Am I correct on this?

Will I be able to wire to the relay that waits for the motor to turn on the headlights AND wire the Lynx HIDs straight to the battery OR if the HIDs are wired straight to the battery, are they gonna come on as soon as the key is turned on?

Many thanks to any electrician who can help me on this, I can do alot of stuff, electrics ain't one of 'em.

AustinJake

lynxfairing_up.jpg

Edited by OlderHuskyRider

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The relays referred to are ones supplied in the Lynx harness. Thre is a pair of wires that atach t the battery, pass through a fuse and then to the relays, one for each lamp. The relays are controlled by the original hi beam lamp and for alternating lamps, the original low beam lamp. That way you run heavier wire direct from the battery and get less voltage drop and no heavy current passes through your ignition switch When running the normal 65W halogen bulbs, this current is an issue. For 35W (one at a time) this is not so much a concern, but it is the way it is wired regardless.

I find there is little need for both to be on at the same time, though my TE610 is wired that way. The HID low beam is so good I rarely turn on my high beam. I ride every day of the week almost commuting and sport riding the weekends, in the dark in winter.

So the main issue is whether your stock headlight circuit is AC or DC. My '06 TE450 is AC. I do not know what the '08+ FI bikes are. I can say that running off the battery on an AC lighting system will likely exceed your available DC charge rate. My 2.2 amp cooling fan comes off the battery direct and if I run it too long I eventually cannot electric start my 450.

KTM bikes of similar size are/were also AC and there are rectifier kits out there to convert the AC to DC to run fans and LED lights. This might be an option for you also.

Edited by K7MDL

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So the main issue is whether your stock headlight circuit is AC or DC. My '06 TE450 is AC. I do not know what the '08+ FI bikes are. I can say that running off the battery on an AC lighting system will likely exceed your available DC charge rate. My 2.2 amp cooling fan comes off the battery direct and if I run it too long I eventually cannot electric start my 450.

KTM bikes of similar size are/were also AC and there are rectifier kits out there to convert the AC to DC to ruin fans and LED lights. This might be an option for you also.

Thanks man, mine is AC as well, and I will go with the "one light on at a time" and hope that I keep charging.

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It's easy to use an ampmeter inline with the bike running and lights on, and see if the bike is charging, discharging, and(or) the breakeven RPM. With a wire diagram for that bike I could answer the other questions.:thumbsup:

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Got it up and running, 98% done, but one problem.

When changing to Brights, no problem, the little Blue light on dash comes on for Brights. When switching back to Low, my dashboard seems to "reboot", goes blank, shows an error code, 22 I think, then goes back to normal life, the bike keeps running and it doesnt do it every time I switch back down to Low.

Speedo has quit working now

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There was a good deal on a Trailtech Vector with remote switch on ADVRider classified I think. :-)

Is the stock headlight on the 2010 AC or DC? How did you control the relay for high beam? Was the high beam wiring stock or did you end up giving it DC?

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There was a good deal on a Trailtech Vector with remote switch on ADVRider classified I think. :-)

Is the stock headlight on the 2010 AC or DC? How did you control the relay for high beam? Was the high beam wiring stock or did you end up giving it DC?

The HID set-up is all wired to the battery, the ballasts have to have access to as much power as possible.

The HID set-up has a relay each for High and Low. The Husky relay is also involved since the install uses the standard handlebar switch.

I have sort of fixed my problem. _____XJnWI pointed out that the only interface between the headlight stuff that I have replaced and the dashboard module is the white wire, that turns the blue light and the high beam indicator on and off in the dashboard. I cut that wire to the dashboard and it cures the apparent surge of something that was re-booting the dashboard. I can do without the high beam indicator, if I get to keep my tripometer from resetting..

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That wire to the headlight HIgh lamp was really the focus of my questions for you. Is that AC or DC flowing in the stock lamp, and after your changes, what is it now? Understanding that, you should be able to wire it back again as required and work.

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That wire to the headlight HIgh lamp was really the focus of my questions for you. Is that AC or DC flowing in the stock lamp, and after your changes, what is it now? Understanding that, you should be able to wire it back again as required and work.

The stock bike headlight was AC. The HIDs are now wired to the battery.

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The stock bike headlight was AC. The HIDs are now wired to the battery.

And do you now have AC or DC flowing through the handlebar controls to operate the high beam? And is that same power (AC or DC) going to your high beam indicator the way you have it wired?

So what was AC is possibly now DC in the speedo? I am wondering what the root of the problem is that caused your speedo to act up, and causing you to cut the wire. Fix the problem, you might get your high beam indicator working again, and maybe help the next person to try this also.

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