'06 YZ250 Top End - When to use Ball Hone?

Anyone have tips on when to use/not use a 320 grit ball hone to put some cross-hatch back into the cylinder prior to installing a new piston? Any bad experiences or things to avoid?

Just thought a ball hone would be useful to return some of the cross-hatch to the cylinder wall...

dont use a ball hone on a nikasil plated cylinder, either do the scotch brite and wd-40 trick or use a brush hone

I am too cheap to buy a ball hone or any other type of hone.

One day I might have to. I am looking forward to the answer

Never used one. Only ever scotch brite to remove any potential glaze. Personally I think the risk of damage is too great for most people.

dont use a ball hone on a nikasil plated cylinder, either do the scotch brite and wd-40 trick or use a brush hone

Some ball hones are specified to be used with a nickasil cylinder, have you had a bad experience using a ball hone? If so what happened? Just want to get some info on the subject... :thumbsup:

Anyone have tips on when to use/not use a 320 grit ball hone to put some cross-hatch back into the cylinder prior to installing a new piston? Any bad experiences or things to avoid?

Just thought a ball hone would be useful to return some of the cross-hatch to the cylinder wall...

What kind of hone? A silicon carbide one will crosshatch nikasil, but chances are good that it will also eat right through it. If there is no cross hatching left then it's probably time for a replate anyways.

Aluminum oxide hones are ok to use, but you aren't really honing it then, just deglazing, which can be done with a Scotch-Brite, or 400-600 grit wet-sand paper. I personally go with a Scotch-Brite and some soapy water.

If you want to hone then use a rigid type. You can get away with a flexi hone (not recommended) on a 4T, but on a 2T - with all the port edges - no way. Either way, all you are doing is glaze busting. Replaters use a rigid diamond hone to size a barrel - very expensive!!

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