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Right Crank Seal Replacement

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How do you replace the right crankshaft seal with the engine in the frame?

Thanks in advance for the advice.

Andrew

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drain the engine and tranny oil. drain coolant. take off the right side engine cover. Remove the gears there for the counterbalancer and fish it out.

I assume you have oil migration? If so replace the counterbalancer seal and bearings also.

Be sure to have a new engine side cover gasket and O ring for the dowel behind the water pump.

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I assume you have oil migration? If so replace the counterbalancer seal and bearings also.

Yes, I have oil migration. I just rebuilt the bottom end so the crank seal is new, as are the balancer bearings and balancer seal. I used Hot Rods main bearing seals, if that matters. I imagine that I damaged the new crank seal during assembly.

How do you drive the new seal in with the crank in place?

Is it important to replace the balancer bearings just to eliminate wobble and runout? They are new, so I will leave them as is. I will probably replace the (new) balancer seal too though, just to cover my bases.

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use a large deepwell socket to drive in the crank seal.

yes you replace the balancer bearings to keep the seal in good shape.

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Yes, replacing the counterbalancer bearing keeps the runout down and the life of the waterpump seal up!

Do a search for member: Kelstr about carefully peening around the right side main seal to keep it in place. I've done a couple that way with no issues (I get the idea Kelstr has done quite a few more than that!) Hope this helps MED

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Use oil seal 91202-MEY-671 from the later models. Its an improved seal and can be used on all 02 - 08 engines.

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I would like to know why this seal is a common failure item. I have blown 2 in 20 hours or so.

The later model seal is 7.5mm wide and not 7mm. Was the boss for the seal changed in the later models to 7.5mm?

Why did the engineer makes a seal boss with no landing for the seal?

I have not figured out if the seal is being pushed from the crankcase or from the tranny side. Both seals I had turned in the bore and were chewed up!

For anyone doing this job pull the left cover and clean the pickup tube! Also, clean the flywheel real good as the metal fines will be captured in the flywheel. You will be surprised how much the oil pickup screen will be filled with rubber and the stainless steel spring used in seal.

The last one I put in I scored the bore slightly and filled with loc-tite. Moose seals last 2 times. I have the 7.5mm seals on order.

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I would like to know why this seal is a common failure item. I have blown 2 in 20 hours or so.

The later model seal is 7.5mm wide and not 7mm. Was the boss for the seal changed in the later models to 7.5mm?

Why did the engineer makes a seal boss with no landing for the seal?

I have not figured out if the seal is being pushed from the crankcase or from the tranny side. Both seals I had turned in the bore and were chewed up!

For anyone doing this job pull the left cover and clean the pickup tube! Also, clean the flywheel real good as the metal fines will be captured in the flywheel. You will be surprised how much the oil pickup screen will be filled with rubber and the stainless steel spring used in seal.

The last one I put in I scored the bore slightly and filled with loc-tite. Moose seals last 2 times. I have the 7.5mm seals on order.

my left seal is kind of sideways

http://youtu.be/sEyLNSmNrJg

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I would like to know why this seal is a common failure item. I have blown 2 in 20 hours or so.

The later model seal is 7.5mm wide and not 7mm. Was the boss for the seal changed in the later models to 7.5mm?

Why did the engineer makes a seal boss with no landing for the seal?

I have not figured out if the seal is being pushed from the crankcase or from the tranny side. Both seals I had turned in the bore and were chewed up!

For anyone doing this job pull the left cover and clean the pickup tube! Also, clean the flywheel real good as the metal fines will be captured in the flywheel. You will be surprised how much the oil pickup screen will be filled with rubber and the stainless steel spring used in seal.

The last one I put in I scored the bore slightly and filled with loc-tite. Moose seals last 2 times. I have the 7.5mm seals on order.

 

That question, good sir, is what Ive been asking since 2002. This seal is the most common failure in this engine. Its a colossal cluster &%$#@!, in my rarely humble opinion. Ive been trying to figure out an aftermarket fix forever. About the only thing I can think of is a shim thats about .004" thats inserted behind the main bearing, Because of the bore diameter, you cant just put a spacer in there because the damn bearing separator cage is all that shows. The only other solution would be to machine a second boss into the bearing saddle that would allow a spacer to hang into the seal bore and be retained by the main bearing outer race. WAY more work than convenient.

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Every motor I take apart now I peen over the boss from the inside. The funny thing is... some cases don't do it... Some cases the seal pushes in by hand with little effort. Partially a QC issue and engineering problem not adding a landing for the seal.

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Every motor I take apart now I peen over the boss from the inside. The funny thing is... some cases don't do it... Some cases the seal pushes in by hand with little effort. Partially a QC issue and engineering problem not adding a landing for the seal.

 

I agree. I also think the rubber coating spec from seal to seal can vary pretty significantly. I think a replacement seal that was 8mm wide would cure 90% of the issue entirely. It'd be very difficult for the seal to cock over sideways in the bore and there'd be enough interference area to hold the seal fast without a compound.

 

If anyone is paying attention when you take them apart, the Honda factory sets that seal with a compound.

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I agree. I also think the rubber coating spec from seal to seal can vary pretty significantly. I think a replacement seal that was 8mm wide would cure 90% of the issue entirely. It'd be very difficult for the seal to cock over sideways in the bore and there'd be enough interference area to hold the seal fast without a compound.

If anyone is paying attention when you take them apart, the Honda factory sets that seal with a compound.

hey Shawn I am going to buy some 609 retaining compound to re seat my left seL Edited by 450xThunder

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