A question for you more informed minds!

Don't ask me why I was thinking this because I could go into it but it’s irrelevant. Don't have any intention to do this but just a result of my brain cogs turning while in class today!

I have heard that bikes that were built for road have a Cush-drive (sp)? I may be calling it wrong but I’m talking about the shock absorbing mechanism that come on street bikes to absorb jolts and jarring to the transmission when shifting because the tires stick to pavement better than in dirt. Anyone know what I am talking about? I’ll call it a Cush-drive anyway but I define it as I said above just so you know what I mean.

Anyway I have seen people cautioning about (not against) dual sporting the XR650R or other dirt bikes because it doesn’t have this “cush drive.” Warned against doing…, be careful with...or more wear on …, etc. I’m not sure on all the details but I got to wondering…I read that the Honda’s factory dual sport motorcycles had it and I know that some models of the BRP in the UK or AUS came setup from the factory as a dual-sport! Does this mean that they have this cush-drive do-jigger? I thought it was in the hub (I may be wrong) but could this cush-drive be purchased from a UK or AUS part number and installed on a US pig if someone was really worried about it?

Like I said I just got to thinking and I thought that ya’ll’d be the best place to answer my curiosities?

Thanks for letting me pick ya’ll’s brain.


I looked into it further and found that UK/Aus/Euro bikes even though they come street legal don't have cush drives. Oh well.

The 650L and the 650R do not have cush drives in the hub. Reason? Because it's outdated. Now the cushioning is in the clutch, instead of the rubber inserts in the rear hub. Both the 650L and 650R have cushioned clutches. So don't worry it's cool Honda took care of that!


PS. The new KTM RFS's do NOT have any type of cushioning in the clutch and therefore KTM warns against dual sporting them. No problem I say, since I would not ride a KTM anyway hahaha.

Hey smashinz,

Does the judder spring have a role in cushioning the clutch?

Do you know of any technical references that explain how well clutch cushioning works and associated maintenance issues?


Hey there Needsprayer! No, I don't really know how it works in the clutch. I have read several articles written by people who race the bike in Baja, and talk about the cushioned clutch, and how the KTM RFC's don't have it. So I don't know how it works, but! You can take your bike on pavement, and nail the crap out of it in 2nd, and you might feel the very subtle slippage. Or is that the tire spinning? hahaha. Whatever the case, I have logged almost 4k miles on mine now, mostly on the street, and my clutch still doesn't need any adjustment at the bar. Still feels good as new. And believe me I ride my bike pretty hard, because it's fun~!

Instead of worrying about the cush drive, I think people should concern themselves a little more with real problems, such as the lower shock link, which rides to the right, wearing down the aluminum surface pretty quick. Check it out. And another concern with the kickstarter falling off if you don't put some blue loctite on the bolt! And last but not least, checking the oil correctly especially after an oil change!! Overfilling is bad, bad I say! The right peg is a pain in the butt too, loosening badly if it's not locked down.

But it's a bad ass bike, faster than hell and looks damn good! I wouldn't have anything else.

L.L. :)

Quote: "I think people should concern themselves a little more with real problems, such as the lower shock link, which rides to the right, wearing down the aluminum surface pretty quick."

I took care of this when I installed my Kouba lowering link. As you noted, the wearing is to the right hand side, so I handmade a brass washer for the right hand side.

The free space between the swingarm mounting collars and the shockarm is very tight due to the extra length of the bushing/tube (that sits inside the shockarm). This tube is slightly longer than the width of the shockarm link, so I fashioned up a brass washer (from some scrap sheet brass) that slips over this tube.

The outside diameter of the washer is equal to the outside diameter of the shock arm housing. The inside diameter is very slightly larger than the bushing/tube. So the washer just fits over the tube and covers the whole surface of the face of the shock arm. This fits in without any trouble because it is thin enough to not add any additional width to the overall shockarm width. It just covers the extra length of the tube. The washer will preserve the swingarm collar aluminum surface.

I will check this area twice a year as part of my regular tear down and grease everything maintenance and make replacement washers as required.

Cool man ! Thanks for the idea needsprayer! How thick of brass did you use to make the washer? I would like to do that, since I have been at a loss on how to keep the thing from wearing down.


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