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Questions regarding primary and counterbalance nut fixes

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UPDATE - http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?p=10027503#post10027503

^^^^^Please Look^^^^

I plan to do these two loctite fixes on my 2001 DRZ400E. I've had a knocking sound from the right of the engine for quite some time now and I just want to fix it and get it over with.

I use my bike for commuting to/from school daily, so I would like to have the shortest possible downtime. Can't drive because there's no parking, public transport costs too much. So I want to order everything I will need now, and when the parts come get the fix done over the weekend.

I know I will need oil, coolant, and red loctite. What else will I definitely need? New gaskets? Assuming that the pin, nut, and whatever else is not damaged (or should I assume it is damaged?). Anything else I need to do while I'm at it?

Also, going by this picture which I took from the how-to thread, is the red arrow the primary nut and the green arrow the counterbalance nut?

9VN7O.jpg

Thanks

Edited by Boris4ka

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About 2300 miles total (according to the title plus the 1000 I've put on it). But I can't say for sure, it only had the trip meter before I installed a proper speedo/tach.

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Pretty straightforward task. It will be a little tougher to pry the stator side apart, but keep at it. It will come apart.

Good luck getting the primary nut torque to 80-101ft. lbs.:thumbsup:

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Can someone give me a list of parts I'll need?

You don't really need any unless you ruin the gaskets. Just "red" and "blue" Loctites. :thumbsup:

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You don't really need any unless you ruin the gaskets. Just "red" and "blue" Loctites. :thumbsup:

He will need the paper side cover gasket... the chances of it being in a re usable condition are somewhat less then the US having a balanced budget by Monday.

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You don't really need any unless you ruin the gaskets. Just "red" and "blue" Loctites. :thumbsup:

What's the blue one for? I've only seen red mentioned in the how-to's.

He will need the paper side cover gasket... the chances of it being in a re usable condition are somewhat less then the US having a balanced budget by Monday.

Is that the clutch cover gasket (part 11482-29F00)?

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Alright, is there anything else I need? I have to order EVERYTHING I will need for this job, I can't afford to have any unplanned downtime on the bike. What is the chance I'll have to replace anything else like the pin, washers, nuts, etc? Considering the noise has been around for about 500 miles.

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Sorry guys, didn't mean to steer you wrong. I thought I read somewhere about needing "blue" Loctite, guess not. Oops, I know I did the primary & counter balance nut with "red" Loctite though. Now, I have to re-think if I did put "blue" Loctite someplace now.:thumbsup: I guess we do things backward here in "Dja-booty.":banghead:

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Sorry guys, didn't mean to steer you wrong. I thought I read somewhere about needing "blue" Loctite, guess not. Oops, I know I did the primary & counter balance nut with "red" Loctite though. Now, I have to re-think if I did put "blue" Loctite someplace now.:thumbsup: I guess we do things backward here in "Dja-booty.":banghead:

Oh there are other fastener removed in the process of getting to the primary nut that I would use med strength thread locker on.. brake pivot bolt and skid plate bolts come to mind off the top of my head.

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don't be surprised if the loctite fixes don't stop the knocking .

the loctite fixes stop items working loose THEN doing damage

you don't need to replace pins etc

Ahh, ok I missed that part of the OP's post.

This is only a simply quick preventive fix, if it's preventative.. If you are fixing a counter balancer whose nut has come loose and now clanking against the crank (knocking noise) .. you'll have additional parts and work involved.

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Ahh, ok I missed that part of the OP's post.

This is only a simply quick preventive fix, if it's preventative.. If you are fixing a counter balancer whose nut has come loose and now clanking against the crank (knocking noise) .. you'll have additional parts and work involved.

So what would those additional parts be? I know the pin can grind out the hole as shown here. Is it a bad idea to JB weld it if that's what happened to mine? Anything needed other than a new balancer shaft?

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So what would those additional parts be? I know the pin can grind out the hole as shown here. Is it a bad idea to JB weld it if that's what happened to mine? Anything needed other than a new balancer shaft?

IF,,, I.F< that is your clanking noise.... Yes JB anything is not a good idea... and the parts list is often inclusive of.. Counter balancer shaft, gears, pin, nut...

I understand your position and need to have the DRZ back up as basic transportation... BUT there is right, and doing it twice, you can have one or the other,,,, the second normally costs much more then the first option.

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I see. Then is it possible to remove the right engine case just to take a look at what's damaged, and then put it back on while I wait for parts? Do I still have to drain the oil in that case? If only a bit spills I can just top it off, but if it starts pouring from there I won't do it. As for the radiator fluid, I can clamp the rubber hose just before the pump.

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I have not read anything you have posted about diagnosing your mystery noise........ If .. I>F> the counter balancer nut has backed off and the balancer is hitting the crank,,,putting it mback together without repairing the damage is not going to work out well. Have you started a thread or posted in one about the issues you are doing this fix for?

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I see. Then is it possible to remove the right engine case just to take a look at what's damaged, and then put it back on while I wait for parts? Do I still have to drain the oil in that case? If only a bit spills I can just top it off, but if it starts pouring from there I won't do it. As for the radiator fluid, I can clamp the rubber hose just before the pump.

If you don't won't to dran the oil lay the bike over. Drain the coolent, when you pull the side cover coolant will come out of the water pump and also drian down from the cylinder and head.

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I've only posted this about it. I kept riding since then because the noise pretty much went away, but for the past week it's been coming back, mostly while waiting at traffic lights.

I haven't done any real diagnosing because to do that I need to open the engine case. Which is why I'm wondering if I can open it up without having to flush the oil. I don't think it can be the balancer hitting the crank because the noise only happens for a few seconds.

For example, I stop at a one-minute light, and ten seconds in it makes a screwdriver-against-metal noise 5 times, then is quiet for 30 seconds, then makes the noise again 10 times. Just an example. Sometimes it doesn't make any noise. If I had to make a blind guess I'd say it sounds like the primary nut washer is loose. But I'm no mechanic.

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