Remove the clutch arm bearings w/o splitting the case?

KX250-

Cases.jpg

A small blind bearing puller that has a slide hammer as part of it. This one may not be small enough for what you are doing but if you don't have one this is a great set at a great price and I have this set myself. There is a chance it will go small enought too as they go down to 8mm.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Tools/Shop&webCatId=22&webTypeId=140&prodFamilyId=20342&brandId=294

One of my excoworkers that lives here has a real small Snapon set that does the smaller bearings so if mine isn't small enough I just borrow his for that job LOL. Good luck J.

Ed

Edited by no1clyde
Reword LOL

On the 94.

I just thought if there was a cheap, easy way to remove them. I'm going to split the cases at some point. The shaft actually had grooves in it from the bearings. I cleaned them up as much as I could and lubed them up for now.

I have from time to time, used 'all thread', screwed into the bearing. Typically the fit of these bearings is not too tight, so if the rod you use is slightly larger than the shaft, you can get a purchase on it and pop it out.

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I bet the bearing steel is a lot tougher than the steel in the clutch lever. Are you sure the bearings need replacement?

I'm going to split the cases at some point.

Would splitting the cases even make those bearings easier to remove?

Yes, it would. He would have access from the bottom to drive that bearing out. I would use a puller to remove that. I was able to get one from Princess Auto that would do that job pretty easily. I guess if you're in the states, Harbor Freight wold likely have something that would work.

Yes, it would. He would have access from the bottom to drive that bearing out.

What "access from the bottom" does splitting the cases give him? These are '97 cases, are '94 cases different?

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no1clyde and Jim_B, what is the thread diameter and pitch on the end of the slide hammer / inside of the collets? Is it SAE or metric? I have the Kawasaki factory special tool, but it only has maybe three collets. :smirk:

Not quite sure; it's a my shop and I can check in the next few days. It's probably metric, as I'm pretty sure the puller set is made in Taiwan.

I have the harbor freight puller and the top bearing popped with the included collet the problem is that it's not long enough to reach the bottom bearing. Took the case half to dealer and they couldn't get to the bottom bearing with any of their pullers. They also stated that Kawasaki had no procedure for removing either of theses bearings(probably just bs so they could save face). Anyway I had no success hope you figure it out. Keep us posted if you do.

Dang! I guess a real long collet is needed.

It sounds like even more tools are required now. These dang dirt bikes can get expensive. EDIT: :smirk:

Edited by KDXGarage

Well, it looks like my 1987 KX250 is the same way as these '94 and '97 models. I don't have the proper tools to get the bottom bearing out, so if someone finds a puller long enough to do it, please post the information. :smirk:

I was looking on line this morning and found this set, never seen this brand before but the collets look longer than my set,price is good too.

http://frontrangewarehouse.com/show_Product.asp?ID=2362

J I will try to get thw thread of my set one of these days for you.

Ed

Thanks for doing so.

The one listed says it only goes down to 3/8". Aren't there bearing ID's smaller than that in the engine?

That is 8mm and that is all mine goes down to. Yes there are smaller bearings,water pump and power valve for sure but those clutch bearings I think are either 8mm or 10mm but no 100% sure on that.

Ed

In other words, whenever I get around to fooling with such bearings, I will be back on here asking the same question about pullers. :smirk:

I still have a hard time believing those bearings wear out. Seems they'd last the life of the gears, cases, etc....:smirk:

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