Bike Wont kick start very easy :(

Ok,

My CRF250 (2008) has got really hard to kick start , it used to start on 2nd or 3rd kick most of the time but now i seem to kick for 5 mins before anything happens .. couple pulls on the throttle , fuel on , choke on , then kick ..

I have tryed to bump start twice and started both tries ..

So any idea's on the problem i could have ?

And what is the solution / fix ? + how easy to do my self ?

Thanks for any help / Answers

Search through the site a little, there is tons of good info.... Sounds like your valves are out of spec, might be time to re-shim them. Not too hard, manual, sandard tools, shims, feeler gauge.

Check the valves as posted.

You should also check the pilot jet if its been in the bike and sat for any period of time.

Ok..

thanks for the quick answers , ive never actually took any of the bike apart (well apart from air filter , oil changes etc)

But ive looked on the internet and seems pretty simple to do the things suggested ,i may have a play around with it tomorrow

But might have to go buy a couple things to do it ..

thanks :smirk:

Its not that hard to do the valves and if they are out of spec, that will make the bike much harder to start.

If you don't have a micrometer, torque wrench and feeler gauges, don't mess around with it. Plus, adjusting the valves requires the camshaft to be removed unless the exhaust valves need adjusted which is probably not the case. Your intake valves are out of adjustment which you can have re-adjusted, but they are going to come out of adjustment very quickly. You probably need a new set of intake valves, and adjusting them is only going to give you a few hours of riding if you're lucky. New valves, springs and the valve seats will need to be re-cut to match the new valves. You're going to spend some money for this job. Not real difficult if you have the right stuff to do it with, but it doesn't take much to set the timing wrong and ruin a new set of valves and maybe a piston. If you do have this done, make sure that whoever does it inspects the piston and if it's still in good shape, have a new set of rings installed. If you can swing it, a new timing chain would be in order also.

Hi mate, also in the UK:thumbsup:

You don't need any special tools to just CHECK the valve clearances except a set of feeler gauges.

I'm 56 and have never owned (or even used) a torque wrench and i've never stripped a bolt. Common sense is all you need but if you decide to get one buy one thats for the 'lighter' motorcycle stuff (NOT an 1/2" drive one)

If it needs re-shimming there are ways to work out the sizes you need to buy without neccesarily buying a micrometer either.

If you want to chat about the job (or are in the NW?) give me a PM and i'll send my number

Ian

Its not that hard to do yourself. Just take your time and double check everything you do. In my opinion, the hardest part of a top end is getting the damn circlips in and out :smirk: . Once everything is together turn the motor over by hand several times to make sure everything is lined up, like CharlieC said.

I would def recomend a good torque wrench though. I wouldn't even think about tightening head bolts or camshaft holder bolts without a torque wrench.

Hi mate, also in the UK:thumbsup:

You don't need any special tools to just CHECK the valve clearances except a set of feeler gauges.

I'm 56 and have never owned (or even used) a torque wrench and i've never stripped a bolt. Common sense is all you need but if you decide to get one buy one thats for the 'lighter' motorcycle stuff (NOT an 1/2" drive one)

If it needs re-shimming there are ways to work out the sizes you need to buy without neccesarily buying a micrometer either.

If you want to chat about the job (or are in the NW?) give me a PM and i'll send my number

Ian

MX scotty, I respect that you know how much to tighten a bolt and only being 10 years younger than you and have been wrenching almost my whole life, there are millions of folks that read these posts that don't have the knowledge of simple mechanics like you and I. Think about that 15 year old kid that his mom picked up a crappy tool set at the local garage sale for next to nothing and all it has in it is a few sockets and a couple of garbage screwdrivers that's working on his bike. Dangerous situation if not done right. My point is some folks that read these posts that don't have the basic knowledge and sense to know how much to tighten a 6mm bolt that only requires 10 ft. lbs or it stripps. Keep that in mind, but I truly understand where you're coming from and it can be done without all the stuff I mentioned. Yourself, me and pleanty of folks that read this can do it effortlessly, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Charlie

Point taken Charlie :smirk:

I was only trying to stress to the OP that 'special tools' aren't needed to just CHECK the valve clearances :rant:

Ian

Point taken Charlie :smirk:

I was only trying to stress to the OP that 'special tools' aren't needed to just CHECK the valve clearances :rant:

Ian

No problem my friend. I made the mistake myself and caused someone some greif. Now I'm real careful.

Thanks Ian!

Well put.

also keep in mind if you strip out those bolts on the head you have to buy a new head. so it may be a wise decision to buy a torque wrench. it is always nice to have everything torqued to spec. it will save you $$ in the long run when it comes to breaking bolts off or stripping them

also keep in mind if you strip out those bolts on the head you have to buy a new head. so it may be a wise decision to buy a torque wrench. it is always nice to have everything torqued to spec. it will save you $$ in the long run when it comes to breaking bolts off or stripping them

Just to add to this, the torque wrench isn't just for the engine. Pinch bolts, engine mounts, suspension bolts and nuts should all be torqued to specs. There's no better way to get that "new bike feel" again than correctly tightening the nuts and bolts. There's a reason why they have those torque specs through out the book.

It definitely is a valve issue..I used to have a problem kick starting my 07 250r a while ago, and after a quick valve cleaning my bike kicks after one time.

Well that's good news. If you can find out how they cleaned the valves, I'll bet a lot of guys out here would like to know! Please ask who ever did the valve cleaning.

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