Old YZ Clutch Assembly

92 YZ250, there are two thrust washers, one on each side of the hub. One's slightly thicker than the other. The parts diagrams don't give any indication which goes where.

One person here noted that having them wrong results in a dragging clutch. Seeing as I still have some drag, figure I might as well make sure I have them right?

The thicker one goes on first...behind the basket.

The clutch works if you reverse them, but the pull will be 10 times harder. Think of the thick washer as moving the clutch away from the center of the bike. That thick washer sets up the proper leverage for the clutch rod. Be sure and polish the ends of that pushrod while your in there.

Ok, I think that's how I ended up putting them in after much second guessing and staring at the parts fiche. Once I get a new clutch nut lock tab I'll pull it apart to verify. The clutch pushrod and pull arm are new so those are verified.

How much drag, if any is 'normal' on these setups? Should I keep digging till I can click into first with a a wam motor and not have the revs dip till I feed out clutch lever? Right now I can keep it in place with a touch of brake and slight throttle work but I can still stall it with the clutch pulled fully which doesn't quite seem right.

my 92 is just fine, there should not be any drag at all.

Drat, means I'm not 100% correct yet. Ok, plan is to tear back into it this weekend, pulling the whole basket out. I've corrected the rod length and push rod wear issues, hub and basket show no wear, ASV perch is setup with more total throw than OEM... I'm down to:

A) clutch nut on too dang tight

:smirk: warped steels?

c) Thrust washers reversed

d) ???

Anything else I should check if correcting those 4 doesn't get me sorted?

Well crud... just pulled the rear wheel to swap on fresh, made this decade rubber... one bearing is already loose in the hub. So much for staking/loctiting them in. Guess I'm going to need new wheels sooner rather than later.

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