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Just Got a 1990 DR350 (pics)


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Here is my bike. Just got it yesterday. Great Condition!!!

I am having issues starting it Cold or Warm, and I have been doing a lot of reading on the subject. Yesterday it seemed to start ok and now today it has been a nightmare i feel like i need a hip replacement. I have been trying the ritual in several alternating ways. I got to the point where i had to push start it a few times just to get home. The battery died last night so i there is a dead batter in there, maybe thats whats sucking all the power out of the spark. not sure whats goin on there. Going to spend some time tomorrow trying to get it figured out and starting better. will higher octane gas help starting> I dont want to have to push start it anymore as i almost flipped the bike today doing that im going to be useing it as my primary transport for now as my E36 is currently gettin an S54.

The bike runs great once started, I love the bike. shes only got 2,400 miles!

Few more issues:

Very tall for me. Im 5'8" 150lbs. On my tiptoes at stoplights not so comfortable. whats the best way to lower this beast? i see there is about a 5/8" thread above the coil-over I could lower. about a 3/8" i could move the shocks up. Maybe lowering Links but i hear ill need a different spring, at the same time its got a PINK spring in it I dont think its stock(any input?).

If im idling, when i turn the handlebars back and forth the RPMs change. Must be an issue with the Throttle cable somewhere.

it is geared for offroad but im not sure if thats gunna work so well on the highway. What gearing could I use to drive comfortably 65-70mph?

thanks

let me know what you think.

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Very nice bike. I had a '92 for about 15 years. Mine definitely had a starting procedure:

#1 - If the bike had set awhile (week or two) put the petcock to 'Prime'. Hold compression release in and kick bike thru 10 times. If the bike is being ridden once a week or so, go to step #2.

#2 - Turn key on. Use the kick starter to find TDC. Once TDC is found, pull and hold the compression release in. Use kickstarter to move piston just past TDC.

#3 - Once piston is past TDC, release the compression release, and allow the kickstarter to return to it's highest point. (Allow it to 're-cock', so that you'll get all of it's travel when you kick bike over).

#5 - Good hard kick completely thru the kickstarter's travel. If you're sitting on the seat, you're doing it wrong. Stand up and kick completely thru the kickstarter travel. If the height of the bike makes it hard to stand over the bike, find a high spot to put your left foot on so that you can stand up to kick.

I suppose each bike might be just a bit different, but that procedure started my bike in one or two kicks for 15 years. The guy who bought my bike had issues at first, when he sat on the seat and tried to give a little 'two-stroke' stab at the kickstarter.

Good luck ..........jkm

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I too have a '90 DR350. I would definitely use higher octane gas. I rebuilt my carb completely, replaced everything, still idled rough. Started using 93 octane only, and it idles like a champ at 1500 rpm. Those early bikes were not meant for ethanol, and don't handle it well. Also, get the carb jet kit from Kientech, it will help with starting. But, I would get VERY familiar with your carb (if it's stock) as you will be tearing it down and adjusting for a bit until it's right. I'm still saving up for the Pumper carb...

The battery has nothing to do with the spark or starting. It just runs the headlight/turn signals and neutral light when the bike isn't running and helps prevent the headlight from flickering at idle. I'm actually going to remove my battery and put in a capacitor to drop some weight (I don't ride on the street).

The stock gearing is good for the street, which is 14T front and 43T rear.

Edited by armee_1
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Well i swapped the battery from my scooter thinking that the battery could be malfunctioning and pulling power from the bike and I think i was right because the times i was able to get it to start with the dead bat (bump start) the Tachometer wouldn't go above 3k. Also it would die at normal idle speed. When i replaced the battery it actually starts with a few kicks. 2-3 Real kicks after clearing it out.... and now the tach works fine. Perhaps the battery was Shorting out the system but not enough to blow the fuse, i can definitely tell a difference in starting and idling; idles fine now. Could have robbed just enough power for weak spark, i hear the stator is pretty underpowered already on these bikes.

Just got back from a good 50mile back country ride and it was awesome. Started to rain but it was kinda nice.

Anybody here remove the front fender? I think it would look real nice without that wing on the front.. or am i just asking to be hit in the face with crap from the road?

Love the bike so far! especially now that she starts!

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Looks a lot like my bike, I also have '90. Are those Pirelli Scorpions? I am just about the same size as you are. I ride mostly street now, so once replaced the Kenda dirt tires with the Pirellis, I can stand on it OK. I start mine while on the kickstand, it's just easier for me.

There are replacement plastics out there that look nicer than stock. I still need to replace mine.

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First make sure your air filter is clean, as well as all the other mechanical factors are in order.

My 1991 dr 350 kick over first.second time with this method.

It is basically a two kick method. work the decomp lever till ya get it in a position where the lever automatic pops out after one full steady kick. then decompress then kick it two full kicks in a steady rhythm.If Done properly the engine start.

So here is the break down of what should happen.

1:get the piston in a position where the decomp lever is staying pulled on its own then will pop out after the first kick.

2:kick it

3:the decomp lever will pop closing the cylinder.

4:kick it again with no hesitation in a steady rhythm.

5: it should start.?

6: If it doesn't pull the decomp lever and repeat steps 2-4 maintaining the rhythm till it starts or your leg falls off. :bonk:

this method seams to give the motor some momentum making it easier to fire up.

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  • 1 month later...

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