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new guy here!

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I will scavenge for a welcome thread to post in after I post this, but I will also introduce myself here

I just bought my first dirt bike (dual sport?). It is a 2001 XR250R with street conversion and led's all around (except the headlight of course) no stator upgrade however.

I am looking at doing the stator upgrade but I am having a hard time finding the correct one. I found one from ricky stator with no model year associated with it that is 150 watts. What all do I need to upgrade if I am looking to put a more powerful headlight in it and also charge the onboard nicad pack that serves the horn and turn signal? Also, what do I need to do to upgrade the headlight to something halfway usable?

I love the bike so far, I haven't ridden it much due to the fact that I travel for work a lot.

Thanks for the help!

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Hello and welcome!

What fits that bike i'm not sure as I have a xr400. I replaced mine with a 200w but I only have 100w's hooked up. I run a 65w headlight I think and it works fine except at idle it dims. You should probably make sure the lens on the headlight is glass not plastic for a high Wat bulb.

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I would say to use Ricky Stator for 2 reasons-

#1 - As a Thumpertalk member, you will get a 10% discount. That $150 part is now $135!!! :cheers:

#2 - I'd advise you to call them and let them know what dual sport kit you have and what you want to do with the new stator. They will let you know if you need a new reg/rectifier for the DC portion and if you need a new heavy duty regulator for the AC portion.

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I have a stock stator and it charges my battery on board. I have a Trail Tech regulator/rectifier. It really works great. I do allow the bike to charge a bit by riding it around with the kit off at first but then I just flip it on and my light doesn't dim at idle.

I believe that the Trail Tech is a full wave rectifier or at least a bridge. This means that with the AC voltage that is produced it uses MOST of the sine wave. For those that don't know a sine wave just goes above and below the x axis on a graph so it goes positive and then goes zero. A bridge rectifier uses diodes to make sure that positive voltage gets in but does use about 1.4 volts of what is produced (around 12v-14v). So you effective should get around 10.6v-12.6v produced in DC. Hope that this makes sense. That would be enough to charge a 12v nicad battery. So as long as you don't go to 100 watts you'd probably be good to go on the headlight as is if you charge the battery. A 55w might be ok. Then again a rewound stator means you don't really need the battery at all. So all in personal preference.

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I am definitely looking at the upgraded stator, and unless I rewire the turn signals and horn to run off of the stator, I will still need the battery, which I do not mind plugging in when i park it. I may change the horn out for a low draw solenoid that I can put on an air horn so I can have a low draw, powerful horn too. I will have to see if I can get a stator first, and get that put in and go from there.

Do I need a special power supply onboard to charge the ni-cad? I thought that it wouldn't take a charge of off the direct bike power.

I will look into the trail tech.

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You will need to change the bikes AC output to DC to be able to charge a battery.

What dual sport kit do you have? If you have a battery now, there must be a reg/rec on there unless you have a Tusk kit that must be plugged in and charged. Also, what headlight do you have on the bike? The stock unit with H7 bulb(I think thats what mine was, its a PIAA bulb 35/35) or an aftermarket unit with an H4 automotive bulb? A little more info and we can steer you in the right direction anyway. :cheers:

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