Debating a Revalve, what is your experience?

I am debating whether or not to send my Forks and Shock to Mx-Tech or Factory Connection for a revalve and setup. The rider (me) is a relatively slow 25+ Vet and C class rider, I tip the scales at 170-180 depending on the time of year, or how much steak I have eaten in the preceding week. The bike is an 09 YZ250, the suspenders only have about twenty hours on them (I hardly rode at all last year :cheers: ) So they really don't "need" to be rebuilt yet, I am just hoping for a little better performance. My main complaint is jump face unpredictability, especially seat bounce situations, and steep jump faces that have to be attacked at speed (I can't scrub). I end up in too many nose low (scary) situations. I am otherwise exceedingly happy with the stock setup, and am impressed with the adjustability in the clickers.

Otherwise, anyone have any ideas for me on changes to make that will address my issues? Rebound, probably?

Has anyone here had a bad experience with a revalve on the SSS stuff?

I used the race tech stuff on my bike and could not be happier with the results. If you go that route look into the separator nut as well.

I think you should save the cash on concentrate more on increasing skill level / comfort with the bike. The stock suspenion is more then willing to do what you want and need right now.

I really hope your not thinking I get a revalve and will be instantly faster thoughts. Been there done that!

Unless the bike was giving bad performance like bottoming out over a bubble gum wrapper then your better off on concentrating on skill and proper form.

You are probably just a few clicks away on your shock's rebound setting to get the front end up off of jumps. Here's a basic tuning guide I found on the web (and have forgotten where).

Getting started, shock:

Setting the rebound:

1.) Find a relatively fast straight with braking bumps leading into the entrance of a corner. Reduce (Turn clicker out) the rebound damping until the rear end begins to hop or feel loose. Finally, increase (Turn clicker in) the rebound damping until the sensation goes away.

2.) Find a jump that tends to launch the motorcycle out. The rear end should absorb and then smoothly lift the motorcycle into the air. If the rear end bounces up, add rebound. (Turn clicker in)

3.) Find some large whoops. The motorcycle should track straight through the whoops with the rear wheel extending to the ground before the next impact. If it does not perform as described as above, it is packing and the rebound damping should be reduced! (Turn clicker out) (Please note the guide for sand set-up, as these rules don't apply for sand.)

Setting the compression:

1.) Find a corner with acceleration bumps on the exit. The rear of the motorcycle should follow the ground. If the rear end "breaks up", soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) (If this fails soften the rebound two clicks.) (Turn clicker out)

2.) Find some rough sections, a large jump and a couple of "G-Outs". The shock should bottom on the roughest section but it should not be a slamming sensation. Add compression to fight bottoming. (Turn clicker in.) But avoid going to far as small bump ride will be sacrificed in the trade. Remember the adjusters have a primary effect on the low speed, so even a large change in setting may only affect bottoming resistance slightly. Remember bottoming your suspension is not necessarily a bad thing. You should strive to bottom off the biggest bottoming load obstacle on the track. If you don't you're not getting maximum plushness from your suspension.

Getting started, forks:

Setting the compression:

1.) The forks should react to all track variations. If the forks seem harsh on small bumps or holes, soften the compression. (Turn clicker out) If they aren't, stiffen (Turn clicker in.) until they do feel harsh and then turn back a click or two.

2.) Now find the rough part of the track again. The forks should bottom over the worst obstacle. If harsh bottoming occurs, add oil in 5 mm increments.

Setting the rebound:

The rebound damping is responsible for the stability and the cornering characteristics of the motorcycle.

1) Find a short sweeper. When the forks compress for the turn, the speed at which the forks return is the energy that pushes your front wheel into the ground. If the forks rebound too quickly, the energy will be used up and the bike will drift wide, or wash. If the rebound is too slow, the bike will tuck under and turn too soon to the inside. Find the appropriate balance for each track.

2). With the bike turning well, the wheel should return to the ground quickly yet not deflect off berms or bounce off jumps.

Going to different tracks:

For hardpack to intermediate:

Set the compression softer, (Turn clicker out) front and rear to help get maximum wheel contact and plushness.

Sand tracks:

(Non-square edged bumps); More low speed compression and rebound are necessary. Start by adding 1-2 clicks (Turn clicker in.) of rebound and as the track gets rough, add compression 1-4 clicks. (Turn clicker in.) (Supplementary sand set-up techniques). Harshness is a result of packing in forks. Remember to add compression (Turn clicker in) to help keep the front end from packing. The rear suspension will exhibit packing by swapping. To eliminate swapping begin adding compression (Turn clicker in) until the bike tracks straight and then add rebound (Turn clicker in) to keep the rear following the terrain of each whoop. Don't be concerned if your clickers are nearly maxed out in sand conditions. Unless of course you had your bike revalved for sand.


(G-load, curb hits); G-loads produce slow piston speeds. This means that less dampening is produced by the shock and forks in a situation that causes more of a bottoming load. To set your bike up for Supercross adjust the compression stiffer (Turn clicker in) on the suspension (2-6), clicks and in some circumstances raise oil level and/or change to stiffer springs.



Adjust the forks lower in the triple clamps.

Excessive rear end kick:

Check for packing, which is identified by kick to side in hard to loam conditions. If you observe packing, soften rebound. (Turn clicker out.) This cannot be avoided if you brake improperly and lock the rear wheel up and/or pull in the clutch, on the entrance to corners.

Keep a record of the different settings if you race different tracks. That way you can start at a point that worked well the previous times.

Getting my 06' revalved and sprung properly was the best thing I ever did that that bike X1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000.

Stock valving is not catered to you or your riding style.

And I'd recommend you find a local tuner vs. sending it out. My local guy is cheap, fast and does impeccable work. And if I'm not satisifed I only have to drive 15 miles vs. $50 shipping charges and weeks without my suspension.

Just cause they dont have a giant shop and UPS deliveries 3X a day doesn't mean they're not great tuners :cheers:

For your skill level and weight the stock springs and valving should be good. I do however recomend getting the oil changed front and rear because if the oil is bad it does not matter what you do to the clickers. Always start with setting the sag try 100mm.:cheers:

How handy are you? I have been the "ship your suspenders out route before"; with the cost of shipping,down time and unresponsive tuners when you are trying to get it right for you - I finally went with Smart Performance and did it myself. Dave provides a lot of info with the parts and oils along with tuning instruction. After doing it myself, I find I have more knowledge for setting it up and Dave took the black magic part out, plus he's and email or phone call away.

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