K6 S model - Upgrading to SM Spec

Afternoon All,

Long time viewer, recent joiner.

I've not too long since purchased a K6 model drz in the S spec, I'd hoped for the SM but the right one came along at the right price and I'd bought it before I realised (we've all been there Im sure).

Anyway as I estimate I'll be going off-road no more than 5/6times a year I felt I'd still like to SM spec the bike I'd picked up and during the work I'd add a few comfort items.

So I've Ordered/Got with the intention of fitting;

Excel Rims with SM rubber,

Braided Brake Line,

USD K5 SM forks,

Bottom Yoke,

320mm Rotor,

Heated inserts,

New Grips,

Discrete Mirrors.

The only problem is that I have a habbit of racing into these types of tasks, getting to a point before - facepalm, followed by screams of "8o11ocks, I need a *insert random part name here*" SOOOOO mighty TT forum - other than maybe some head bearings and a fork service what bits/bats etc do I need to complete this swap?

The factory SM front rotor is 310mm. If you want to mount a 320mm you'll need a caliper relocation bracket.

You have "bottom yoke" on your list but you'll need the top, also. And with the SM front end you'll need oversized bars.

That S fender is going to look like crap over the front wheel so add an SM fender to your list.

Running the S gearing and chain is fine but if you do much highway you may like taller gearing better, which will require new sprockets and maybe a new chain. Swapping the stock 15-tooth countershaft sprocket for a 16-tooth combined with the factory 44-tooth rear sprocket will net you factory SM gearing and allow you to retain the factory 112-link S chain.

Spot on mate thats exactly the sort of info I was after regarding the tripple clamp and fat bars.

Sprockets were nearly new at purchase so they'll do for now but agreed on the next set the front sprocket will be 1tooth up.

Spot on mate thats exactly the sort of info I was after regarding the tripple clamp and fat bars.

Sprockets were nearly new at purchase so they'll do for now but agreed on the next set the front sprocket will be 1tooth up.

while you have the back wheel off it is worth throwing a smaller back sprocket on if you will be doing road riding only. just put about 70 miles on my bike doing freeway riding yesterday with the 15/44 sprocket setup on my S and as fast as I was comfortable going was approx 60. coming back I followed a semi and slowed it down a bit more because i didn't even like the steady high Rpms of 60.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Bgringo
      I've read a lot of threads about this but still haven't found exactly what I'm looking for.  I'm pulling my 2004 DRZ400S out of storage sometime this week and getting it ready for the season.  I live at 9,000 ft, but my first ride of the year is probably going to be at around 5,000 ft.  I was going to pull the 145 main jet I'm running and put in the 150 adjusting the needle from the 2 clip to the 3rd, then re-jet once I got home.  I already have the extended fuel mixture screw in place so I started thinking that I should just run the 150 jet set up and adjust the fuel screw to compensate for the higher elevation where I'll be doing most of my riding.  I will be going down in elevation for rides until late May or June depending on snowfall, but riding on the street when I'm able.  Are there any disadvantages with this?
      I'm new to posting on this forum, so please forgive me if I didn't get the right search words in and there is already a post about this.
    • By Markl5557
      I am currently running 10w 40 Belray non synthetic and I want to switch to full synthetic amsoil .... is it ok to switch from regular to synthetic? I have read it’s not safe to go from synthetic to regular can someone explain if it’s safe to go from regular to synthetic!? Thanks !
    • By RockyMtnMark
      Good Morning,
        Last night I measured my valve clearances for the very first time (I know...) on my DRZ400S.  It's a 2002 and I've owned is since 2011.  I bought it with t's got about 15,000 miles on it and most of it's miles these days are on dirt.
      Intake specs are 0.10-0.20 mm.  Exhaust specs are 0.20-0.30
      My intake valve clearances are in spec, forgot to write them down.  My exhaust valve clearances are between 0.1778 and 0.2032 which is slightly out of spec.  They are no more than 25 microns out of spec.  My question is, do I really need to shim these?  Will this kind of out-of-spec cause performance, mechanical, or other losses?  As far as I can tell, I'd have to buy a whole shim kit which is like $80.  Thanks!
    • By Zach440
      Selling my 2009 Drz400sm. Been a great bike but it’s time to let go . Not looking for any trades - spring is just around the corner ! Located in northern Virginia . Cash only $4200- willing to negotiate I have some wolfman luggage options available as well. Love to make a package deal for someone 

      -11640 miles . Mild off-road never wrecked.
      -Oil / filter changed every 1500 miles
      -New did chain , brake pads , front sprocket at 10400 miles .
      - valves checked and within spec at 10,000
      - jetted with JD kit and 3x3 mod
      -doubletake mirrors
      -waterproof usb wired and located next to Speedo
      - drc large foot pegs , barkbusters with integrated turn signals . 12oclocklabs tall delete with upgraded circuit board
      -thumpertalk case savers
      -sergeant seat (amazing) and Clarke 3.9 tank (190mile range )
      - fog lights wired in so they shut off with high beams
      -Shorai lithium battery
      -led headlight

      - stock gas tank and seat will be included

      The bike is dirty in photos and I apologize my water is currently disabled outside due to freezing temps . Radiator guards and skid plate NOT included but can be for some extra $$. Rear tire could be replaced but front is fine .
    • By tplayer100
      Currently have a 2000 drz400s work stock suspension. From my understanding this is the worst suspension the drz ever came with without even rebound damping adjustment. Therefore I'm looking for a upgrade. I'm seeing three approaches to take. First being a newer year s model suspension with dampening adjustment. A SM model USD forks and triple tree or some USD forks and triple tree from a rmz. So if you were going to upgrade what direction would you go. I currently ride off-road mostly but I do have some 17s for on road with as well so have to keep that in mind. Thanks