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New 450 exc owner...want to confirm recommended coolant/oils

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Hey guys, bought an 2007 450 EXC last yr, barely put any miles on it before storing it for winter.

I want to change all oils, and the coolant.

What are recommended brand/weights? Should I always stick with Motorex?

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You won't find a conclusive answer on fluids. Everyone's going to have their opinion.

Mine?

I just bought a 2010 450XCW and at 1h I put Shell Rotella T 15w-40 oil in both sides (not sure if yours has split oil or single).

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i use motul 300V currently on the bike, but people are saying that as long as the oil is fully synthetic with the recommended temp for you'r area (10w40/10w50) you can use any JASO MA certified 4 stroke oil, there are people who use liqui-moly as well though it's probably what sticks in you'r mind, motorex or motul/repsol etc. should be the same as far as i know.

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I have had no issues running Mobile 1 full synthetic 15w50 in both my KTMs. Much less $$ than Motorex.

I ran Motorex in my Husky because it needed 60 weight. It did great in 110* temps. Great oil just more $$ than you really need to spend..

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i run the motul 300v as well, its expensive but with the kind of hours i put on the bike i dont want to take any chances with it, currently ive got 440 hrs on it with out a rebuild, so for me it has been money well spent. jmho:ride:

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any JASO MA certified 4 stroke oil,

Petroleum, semi-synthetic and full synthetic oils can be found with this rating at bike shops or even auto parts stores. Best price for full synthetic JASO-MA in the parts house is the new full synthetic T-6 Shell 5-40 wt. $6.25 a qt. last I checked.

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Thanks for the tips guys. Please forgive the dumb questions, but this is my first KTM and my first 4-stroke. I came off a CR250.

The bike is an 07 450 EXC. Does the engine have 1 oil, or 2? I don't know what year they switched.

So I should be fine with any JASO full-synthetic? I'm in NY, and summer is around the corner, so temps should be ~45-85 degrees. I'm thinking 10w-50.

Thanks again. Times like these when having the manual might be helpful.

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you can find the manual here probably (never checked the 2007 though this should be it):

http://www.ktmusa.com/450-EXC.72.0.html?&detailview=4&cHash=dcbf8829e1

on the 07 (03-07 RFS's) you should have ~1.6 liters of oil put in a single case, the 08 (XC's) and further should have the primary oil and gear separated.

don't take this as printed in the rock but i'm starting to suspect that the oils are basically the same, i use certified company like motul or so just because of they're name giving assurance and confidence with using they're products on such sensitive engines,

it could be that other companies make the same tricks just bid you for lower fares cause they're not that known and has such a reputation.

never seen any research about different fully synthetic oils and don't understand that much in them to figure out if they're actually all the same, and what you'r paying for is actually the brand,

maybe we should ask some oil expert or so.

Petroleum, semi-synthetic and full synthetic oils can be found with this rating at bike shops or even auto parts stores

yeah, maybe, probably :cheers:, said fully synthetic.

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on an oil change you only need about 1 qt, more and you risk over filling, over fill is NOT good. Also look up the method to remove the bottom screen or you may strip it the first time.

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on an oil change you only need about 1 qt

they actually say 1.25 litter for the EXC in the manual,

my mistake.

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I use Rotella in my bike.

If you use the sight glass only fill to the bottom when cold or you will overfill it. They like to blow out the clutch cover gasket when overfilled.

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congradulations on the purchase! is the bike all sorted out? most owners sort out the jetting/smog stuff but not all, is yours done? great bike by the way:ride:

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The bottom screen allen nut is always hard to get out. Put an allen socket or allen wrench in there and smack it with a hammer as if you are trying to drive the tool into the allen nut. This unfreezes it so you can unscrew it without damaging the allen head.

There are 2 screens to clean and 2 filters to replace. normally they take 1.25 Liters of oil. When the bike is cold and it is on the stand or being held upright, the oil should be at the low line toward the bottom of the sight glass. A few minutes after you ride it and check it it should be at the high mark but not totally filling up the sight glass.

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^^,

actually, that's strange cause i've switched oils today and by 1.2 litter (recommended) the site glass was full!

what the heck :cheers:,

anyway,

take a look at Liqui-Moly (Lubro-moly in the U.S) oil 10W-50,

you can have a look here at who is making you'r oil:

and read this thread, watch the 3rd page, 3rd comment from top :ride:,

if the quality is reputed, i'm all in for it.

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When the engine is warm the sight glass fills up. When it is cold before you start it, it should be just in the bottom of the sight glass when the bike is held level. After doing an oil change and running the engine, let the bike cool down overnite then check it cold the next day before starting it.

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Does anybody use Joe Gibbs racing oil?

http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/products/hotrod/index.html

http://www.joegibbsdriven.com/products/breakin/index.html

I'm just returning to bikes so I'm not sure if it would have whats needed or benefit anything.

It is expensive, but car guys swear by it for older motors that have high friction valve train.

Basically it has zinc and other additives that must oil producers have taken out because of the high efficiency roller valve trains, it is formulated to minimize wear.

Wondering if it might help with some of the cupping issues in the valve train I read about.....but I'm no expert here that's for sure.

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The bottom screen allen nut is always hard to get out. Put an allen socket or allen wrench in there and smack it with a hammer as if you are trying to drive the tool into the allen nut. This unfreezes it so you can unscrew it without damaging the allen head.

There are 2 screens to clean and 2 filters to replace. normally they take 1.25 Liters of oil. When the bike is cold and it is on the stand or being held upright, the oil should be at the low line toward the bottom of the sight glass. A few minutes after you ride it and check it it should be at the high mark but not totally filling up the sight glass.

Good advice. But if you use a torque wrench on these and they are not hard to get back out. It is amazing how light of torque is actually is. Seems almost wrong the first few times you do it. But it is not.

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The bottom screen allen nut is always hard to get out.

actually it's been so hard i ruined it with the allen wrench here,

a friend pulled it out with a chisel? and ordered another from the garage,

KTM has changed them from an only-allen screw, to a torx and 1/2 on the outside ring and, the screw comes black-colored - should be hardened.

much better from my pov, for 12$ saves you a bit of a headache, must be that many ruined that screw trying to open it that the company decided to changed them totally.

the oil should be at the low line toward the bottom of the sight glass.

don't know why, had to put almost 1.4 litters for it show in the bottom-middle of the site glass.

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