new KX450F owner, questions!

Hey guys I just picked up an 08 KX450F in pretty good shape. The guy I bought it from just used it around his place and did one hare scramble with it. The valves were checked and are in spec, it runs great, and the suspension is supposedly fresh (I could debate that one). Anyways, it is totally stock, is there any immediate small touches I should do? I was thinking about draining the coolant and running Engine Ice, good idea or no? Also, whats the common oil everyone runs? The guy who I bought it from ran Spectro 10-40 semi-syn. And whats the best foam-filter oil to use? I have some UNI stuff left over from my quads, but I have been told to use some other brands that of course I can't remember the name of. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated!

I run Engine Ice and like it. You don't know when the last time it was changed, so I say go for it. I'd maybe run it once just to make sure it doesn't have a head gasket leak or any other leak so you can repair the issue before spending the money on the Engine Ice. As far as oils go, you can find many many many debates on here, just use the search, some use Rotella T, and some have good results, some use other stuff made for motorcycles. I have been using Maxima Syn-Blend 4 and haven't had any issues, just make sure you keep it clean. Clean cheap oil is better than expensive dirty oil. as far as the Air filter, I've been running Twin-Air filters with No Toil oil and love it. Works well, and the oil is easy to clean with the No Toil cleaner. Buying a new (used) bike, I just got my 09 about a month and a half ago, I went through all of my bearings, checking them for wear and replacing the grease if they are still good. Go ahead and check your wheel spokes to make sure they're snug, just don't over tighten them! I also pulled off all the plastics, tank and cleaned everything with a tooth brush, but I'm super anal and keep my bikes in better than show room condition. I also recommend applying anti-seize on any bolts that thread into plastic, I also applied anti-seize on my chain adjuster bolts. had one of those seize up before....not fun. I'm sure some others will add some pretty good ideas, but thats some of the basics. Enjoy your new bike and post some pics! What'd you pay for it?

Hey thanks for the help so far! I checked all the spokes, they are all tight so thats good. The rear shock seems very soft to me, it may just need adjusting? Doesnt seem to leak. I hear ya on the oil debate, everyone has their own experience. I ran Rotella T in all my quads and never ever had an issue. But I may as well keep running what this guy ran... even though its almost $10/qt :ride:. Good idea with the anti sieze too. I talked the guy down to $3000, and got the bike, some oil, 2 filters, a nice metal ramp, 2 new tires, and a stand. He took forever to give in, but I finally got him down haha :cheers:. People sure do drop the price when you show up with the lettuce in hand!

Nice post BnG23.

Another nod for Twin-air + noil toil. Or Twin-Air's "Bio" oil.Even if water based products work half as good, I change them 3 or 4 times more often. I'll never go back to washing in turpentine.

Anti-seize on spoke nipples is a good idea at some point. Else they will eventually fuse. Done with all the rubber off, using a battery drill on the allen heads.

I use mineral diesel oil. Delo 400 is $80 for 20L. $4 per oil change. Done over 200 hrs on diesel oil. Engine done 280, and it runs great. My gear shifting and clutch feel is best with Delo. Worst with high $ synthetics.

If the previous owner was on the slow side, then that means a lot less wear on the suspension. Look after your suspension and the bike is a lot more fun.

When you grease the linkage, swing-arm, head stem bearings and kick starter boss, use a water proof grease. All that matters is it's resistance to being slowly washed out - by water and WD40 like oils also wash grease out IMO.

Look after your clutch and throttle cables, and set slack how you want it.

The brakes can be a real pain to bleed. New pads also makes a big difference.

With carb IN bike, and fuel tank out: Disconnect and lube the hotstarter plunger, and lube the hotstarter cable. Take the slide cap off, and float bowl drain plug out, and spray a good light oil (such as Inox) all over the slide moving parts. Also with carb in bike, remove the cover under the bowl for the accel pump, and clean the corrosion off the top of the diaphragm.

Get an easy adjusting fuel screw to cope with seasonal changes. Ensure the carb has the 55 leak jet installed.

Tricks are in the setup: Right springs for you. Stock good for MX with 165 to 180lbs. Or a bit heavier if riding offroad/trails. Fork caps up about 9mm in the triples. Rear sag about 103mm with an 08. With the clickers, if in doubt stay faster on the rebound and slower on the comp. If you get keen for much better handling then buy some 22mm triple clamps so your bike will lean more easily side to side. 08 stock triples are 24.5.

Nice post BnG23.

Another nod for Twin-air + noil toil. Or Twin-Air's "Bio" oil.Even if water based products work half as good, I change them 3 or 4 times more often. I'll never go back to washing in turpentine.

Anti-seize on spoke nipples is a good idea at some point. Else they will eventually fuse. Done with all the rubber off, using a battery drill on the allen heads.

I use mineral diesel oil. Delo 400 is $80 for 20L. $4 per oil change. Done over 200 hrs on diesel oil. Engine done 280, and it runs great. My gear shifting and clutch feel is best with Delo. Worst with high $ synthetics.

If the previous owner was on the slow side, then that means a lot less wear on the suspension. Look after your suspension and the bike is a lot more fun.

When you grease the linkage, swing-arm, head stem bearings and kick starter boss, use a water proof grease. All that matters is it's resistance to being slowly washed out - by water and WD40 like oils also wash grease out IMO.

Look after your clutch and throttle cables, and set slack how you want it.

The brakes can be a real pain to bleed. New pads also makes a big difference.

With carb IN bike, and fuel tank out: Disconnect and lube the hotstarter plunger, and lube the hotstarter cable. Take the slide cap off, and float bowl drain plug out, and spray a good light oil (such as Inox) all over the slide moving parts. Also with carb in bike, remove the cover under the bowl for the accel pump, and clean the corrosion off the top of the diaphragm.

Get an easy adjusting fuel screw to cope with seasonal changes. Ensure the carb has the 55 leak jet installed.

Tricks are in the setup: Right springs for you. Stock good for MX with 165 to 180lbs. Or a bit heavier if riding offroad/trails. Fork caps up about 9mm in the triples. Rear sag about 103mm with an 08. With the clickers, if in doubt stay faster on the rebound and slower on the comp. If you get keen for much better handling then buy some 22mm triple clamps so your bike will lean more easily side to side. 08 stock triples are 24.5.

That should be a STICKY

Nice post BnG23.

Another nod for Twin-air + noil toil. Or Twin-Air's "Bio" oil.Even if water based products work half as good, I change them 3 or 4 times more often. I'll never go back to washing in turpentine.

Anti-seize on spoke nipples is a good idea at some point. Else they will eventually fuse. Done with all the rubber off, using a battery drill on the allen heads.

I use mineral diesel oil. Delo 400 is $80 for 20L. $4 per oil change. Done over 200 hrs on diesel oil. Engine done 280, and it runs great. My gear shifting and clutch feel is best with Delo. Worst with high $ synthetics.

If the previous owner was on the slow side, then that means a lot less wear on the suspension. Look after your suspension and the bike is a lot more fun.

When you grease the linkage, swing-arm, head stem bearings and kick starter boss, use a water proof grease. All that matters is it's resistance to being slowly washed out - by water and WD40 like oils also wash grease out IMO.

Look after your clutch and throttle cables, and set slack how you want it.

The brakes can be a real pain to bleed. New pads also makes a big difference.

With carb IN bike, and fuel tank out: Disconnect and lube the hotstarter plunger, and lube the hotstarter cable. Take the slide cap off, and float bowl drain plug out, and spray a good light oil (such as Inox) all over the slide moving parts. Also with carb in bike, remove the cover under the bowl for the accel pump, and clean the corrosion off the top of the diaphragm.

Get an easy adjusting fuel screw to cope with seasonal changes. Ensure the carb has the 55 leak jet installed.

Tricks are in the setup: Right springs for you. Stock good for MX with 165 to 180lbs. Or a bit heavier if riding offroad/trails. Fork caps up about 9mm in the triples. Rear sag about 103mm with an 08. With the clickers, if in doubt stay faster on the rebound and slower on the comp. If you get keen for much better handling then buy some 22mm triple clamps so your bike will lean more easily side to side. 08 stock triples are 24.5.

Holy smokes thats some good info!:ride: I plan to ride off road and trails. Is there any kits or homemade ways or installing a coolant overflow tank and radiator fan? Looks like I got a weekend of tearing down and cleaning/greasing up the bike :cheers:

I have the same bike. I run shell 10w30 engine oil and it works perfect. Belray filter oil is a really good filter oil to use. The only problem i ever had with the bike is the clutch cable broke, and the hot start plunger in the carb stuck open (a common problem for kawi). Make sure to lubricate the plunger, especially if you dont use the hot start often.

I have the same bike. I run shell 10w30 engine oil and it works perfect. Belray filter oil is a really good filter oil to use. The only problem i ever had with the bike is the clutch cable broke, and the hot start plunger in the carb stuck open (a common problem for kawi). Make sure to lubricate the plunger, especially if you dont use the hot start often.

alright cool, yeah i noticed the metal tube on my clutch cable broke right next to the adjuster nut on the motor. ill probably stop today and just get a no toil cleaning kit for the filter

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