Mobil 1 Synthetic varieties & clutch compatibility ?

I know the oil questions have pretty much been done to death on all the forums, but......

As I understand, Mobil 1 Synthetic comes in several versions. The "Racing 4T" version is advertised specifically as their motorcycle/wet clutch compatible oil, but the "High Mileage" oil is almost half the price,easier to find, and doesn't say "energy conserving" in the little circle, which presumably means it doesn't have the friction reducers like graphite and molybdenum disulfide, which would (again,presumably) mean it was acceptable for our purposes.

I've Googled this issue up and down, and read both both thumbs up & down as far as it's use in bikes with wet clutches.

Also, on Mobil's FAQ page, when asked the same question,point blank, they seemed to sidestep the question by tactically saying,"you're looking for our motorcycle oil", but they never stated that the High Mileage was bad for bikes. This lack of clarity on the issue leads me to believe that the high Mileage oil is OK in bikes, but it obviously wouldn't be in their interest to acknowledge that, since they're trying to market a more expensive, bike-specific oil.

The High Mileage oil does have some kind of additives that are supposedly good for vehicles with over 75,000 miles on them IIRC, but as hard as I've tried,I can't find out if these additives are the ones that affect wet clutches.

I've read about Mobil 1 Truck & SUV Oil being good to go for bikes, but I can't find it anywhere, I just see the "Energy Conserving" oils,the High Mileage, or the expensive bike-specific stuff.

As always, any accurate info is much appreciated.........

Edited by Brocephus

Just pour in AMSOIL! Good enough for my Concours14, SV1000s, V-Star........

Stick with the Mobil 1 motorcycle oils. I've got 9 bikes and the only 1 I don't use Mobil 1 in is my 2005 RM250 2 stroke (Bel-Ray).

Just finished freshening the engine on my Roadking (73,000 miles). I was amazed at how clean it was inside (20w50 V-Twin).

I run the 10w40 Mobil 1 motorcycle in the new to me BRP.

I never had a problem with the Mobil 1. I didn't use "high mileage" or "energy conserving" though. Just the standard 10-30.

Never had a clutch problem on my 650R from using Mobile 1 15-50.

Note::I abuse that clutch like a 125.

Thanks guys, but I'm wondering about their synthetics only, and specifically about the High Mileage version, which does NOT say "Energy Conserving". As I understand, the rule-of-thumb has always been to simply avoid "Energy Conserving", and you're good to go. But they mention some kind of friction-reducing additive in the High Mileage, which obviously raises alarms. I've Googled this, and read threads on this and other forums. Some folks say to stay away, but a couple have said they've used the High Mileage without incident.

Basically, I'm hoping to find out for sure if I can safely use Mobil1 synthetc, without paying $10 a quart for the bilke-specific version. Except for these two,all of the other versions that I've seen say "Energy Conserving" in the little circle.

This is what I put in mine. It wasn't that expensive.


I'm hoping to find out for sure if I can safely use Mobil1 synthetic, without paying $10 a quart for the bilke-specific version.
Never had a clutch problem on my 650R from using Mobile 1 15-50.

Note::I abuse that clutch like a 125.

Same here, after a break in on dino oil, switched to Mobil 1 synthetic 15-50 "car" oil. Coming up on 10,000 miles on the bike, factory clutch, no engine problems what so ever.

Other than not using energy conserving oils, regular oil changes are much more important than what type oil to use.

I can share some personal experience.

Energy saving oil has friction modifiers added

to LOWER the friction. This is OK for the engine

but not a wet clutch.

Automatic transmission oil has friction modifiers

to INCREASE the friction! Amazingly enough

this has nothing to do with the oils' ability to

lubricate metal to metal !

( automatic transmissions=wet clutches )

So there ya go.

Dino oil or synthetic, not a problem.

Just no "energy saving" oil.

Energy saving oil MIGHT not wreck your clutch, but it WILL make it slip

under high load. The fix is to tear down the clutch, clean

the friction plates with DENATURED ALCOHOL ONLY and

re-assemble and use non-"energy saving oil" .

There is "motorcycle oil" for a reason, this is it.

15w-50 Mobil 1 at wallyworld. 1 gallon containers for $24. When it's on the shelf, I stock up. The regular red label bottle - no energy saver.

Learned NOT to put it a KTM RFS with a rekluse. That bike gets semi-synthetic. Cheaper from Tractor Supply in a 2 gallon jug. It get changed about every other ride anyway. Only holds 1.25l.

Also tried atf once in a kx60. The friction enhancers actually stuck the plates together. had to flush it and replace with mobil 1 10w-30.

Whats the difference between the one Scott posted a pic of and the mobile 1 racing 4t that says advanced on it?

if you stick with the higher viscosity oils usually called out for in your manual (usually 10w40, 20w50 etc) there is no need to be concerned about friction modifiers or additives or jaso frictional ratings. You cannot build an low friction oil (what to avoid) with oils this thick.

In the30w range oils you can, so avoid the energy conserving starburst on the label. many of the high mileage oils are blended with basestock that is on the thick side of the 30w viscosity range, why they can't qualify as energy conserving.

High mileage oils are blended with the assumption that the car has high miles and may benefit from a slightly thicker viscosity. The additive package typically uses more calcium based detergent additives, since these additives compete for space with the zinc based anti wear additives they are also increased to maintain the balance between the two. Since the hi mileage vehicle is at or near warranty end the effect of the metallic additives on the cat or o2 sensor isn't as much of a concern as it is with a new vehicle.

The 4t is blended off the Japanese jaso spec (easily met by many 40w "car" oils), but has a pumped additive package (same balance of detergent and wear additives all oil have, just more of it) The price mostly rteflects the jaso cert, low volume sales and marketing to MC. Good oil, but overpriced IMO.

I like something commonly found, so in a pinch I can get it any where. (10w50 castrol) Also I replace often, thats why I dont spend the extra $ for oil thats being changed often. (hard riden in dirt ,dust & water) Now a street bike, I could see using the syn oil in engine for longer intervals.

I run the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50 fully synthetic in my 650L. Never had any kind of problem. In the Winter months if I ride at all I switch to the Mobil 1 10w40 4T Racing, or whatever it is called. Nothing but Mobil 1 fully synthetic motorcycle oil for quite some time though. I trust the stuff.

I have read about alot of folks running the 15w 50 mobil1 in BRP. But have heard that it is also harder to find than it once was. The high millage oil your asking about has additives that also condition the seals so your motor doesnt leak. It also is a little thicker as someone has already mentioned. Its probobly fine. I use rotella cause you can find it anywhere and it is reasonably priced. If I didnt use rotella I would probobly use the mobil1 15w 50, in the summer anyways.

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