Brake Bleeding Info

Well I'm having a problem bleeding my rear brake after replacing the pads. The feel is mushy, I cannot get the rear wheel to lock up (on a test ride) no matter how hard I push on the pedal and the brake light switch I installed last year just stopped working after I pumped the brake a couple of time.

I removed and jury rigged the switch and am able to get it to work by manually inserting a thin rod up into the top of the switch chamber and applying pressure so it would appear my switch is good.

I have followed the procedure as outlined in the manual (see below) and I have repeated it about 8 times..still no luck and no bubbles coming out the bleed screw.

Air bleeding steps:

a. Add proper brake fluid to the reservoir.

b. Install the diaphragm. Be careful not to

spill any fluid or allow the reservoir to


c. Connect the clear plastic tube 2 tightly

to the caliper bleed screw 1.

d. Place the other end of the tube into a


e. Slowly apply the brake lever or pedal

several times.

f. Pull the lever in or push down on the

pedal. Hold the lever or pedal in position.

g. Loosen the bleed screw and allow the

lever or pedal to travel towards its limit.

h. Tighten the bleed screw when the lever

or pedal limit has been reached; then

release the lever or pedal.

T R . .

Bleed screw:

6 Nm (0.6 m • kg, 4.3 ft • lb)

i. Repeat steps (e) to (h) until of the air

bubbles have been removed from the


SO...I find the procedure above to be a bit unclear...when they say in step "B" to "install the diaphram"...does that mean I need to re-install the top cover on the master cylinder and screw it down as well? This is a rather time consuming a fiddley process and means it will take forever to bleed this thing if, after each attempt I have to remove the cover fill the reservoir and then re-install the cover.

I have tried bleeding the brake without reinstalling the master cylinder cover and the fluid level drops in the reservoir as I complete the bleed process each it would appear to me that maybe I do not need to go through this fussy time consuming process for each bleed sequence.

Can I just fill the master cylinder reservoir and then proceed with the bleed process and just keep adding fluid to the open reservoir to achieve the same results??. It could take a very long time if I have to do this 15-20 times to clear out any air and need to "re and re" the cover each time.

Thanks for your insight.

Use a syringe filled with fluid and PUSH the fluid from the caliper to the reservoir. This helps get the bubbles out.

Thanks Wondermuscle

I did the syringe bit and it worked great...only took about ten minutes and my rear brake is perfect now. Brake light switch still does not work so I guess I'll have to bite the bullet on that one.

Great to hear! :thumbsup:

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