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1997 YZ250 Clutch Problem

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I have a 97' YZ250 that I just did a bunch of maintenance on and now i'm having a problem with the clutch. I put all new gaskets and seals through out the engine, a new top end, replaced the clutch basket with a Weisco basket and clutch plates and friction plates, and I also put in a new clutch cable that I lubed first. I put in .75 of a quart of Mobile 1 15w/50. Now that it is all done I put it in neutral and started the bike. Sounded great in neutral. Let it sit for a few minutes and then held the clutch in and doped it into first and it leaped forward and stalled even though the clutch was pulled. I did this multiple time and then decided to push start and that went fine, and it shifted through all the gears. After riding for a good 15 minutes I stopped and tried started from a stop and the same thing happened. Any ideas would be helpful because i'm lost?

Ben

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Sound like you have to much tension on the cable. Let out some slack on the cable and make sure the cable is routed right.

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Probaly your cable either needs tightened up or loosened.

Now I did the same with my yz250 except I put a whole new cough in but I too had to adjust the cable too for it to engage properly.

Now you only want I think like 1/2 inch play in the lever. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but you never want Too much slack or not enough slack.

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First off I think ur gear oil is wrong should be 80/90w. It's probably not ur problem. I would check the clutch push rod length for wear. It's possible its not fully disengaging.

Gear oil is rated diffetently than motor oil, he should be fine.

Adjust the free play of the cable at the lever, it sounds too loose.

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I will play with the Cable first before I go and drain the Oil and look at the push rod.

Do you think the Pressure Plate could be a problem. There is a chance that it might have bent a little?

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There are 2 thrust washers that sandwich the clutch basket. If you go to Yamaha's website and pull up the diagram it shows them as different parts. Is one bigger than the other or is one thicker than the other? If so witch one goes where, that could also be a problem i'm having.

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The thrust washers are different. The thick one goes in first. Basically, it would move the clutch basket away more from the center of the bike. If you reverse them, the clutch is hard to pull in, but works.

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Thanks for the link RCannon. My '98 has a tough clutch pull too, I thought the previous owner installed HD springs. What is the diameter of the 250F shim? I think I'm gonna make one at work out of 12ga (~.100").

Looks like anything smaller than .350" diameter will fit in. I will probably punch mine 5/16 or .312

Edited by sledhead999
Added dims

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Just an update. I did the shim in the clutch as stated above. It definately makes the clutch easier to pull. If I was to do mine again, I would use 14 or 16 gauge. I had to take every bit out of every adjustment just so it wouldn't hang on it...its a well used cable too!

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