How do you make the clutch engage sooner on a 80 XL250?

You almost have to let the clutch all the way out before the bike will start to more forward. Is there any way you can ajust this?

Thanks.....

Not usually. Engagement zone is largely determined by the particular design of the throwout lever/rod and lifter. Clutch plates and discs that are under spec will also have an effect.

Trying different clutch levers doesn't really work in reguards to where the engagement point is.

Thanks, that's what I thought. It sucks because you almost have to fully let out the clutch before the bike will move.

hmmmm.

The adjusters have certainly changed my engagement points a few times over the years. ???????????????

You can use the cable adjusters to dial in a lot of slack/lever play to reduce the amount of pull on the lifter mechanism before the lever is pulled to the bar. Just determine how much actuation you need to disengage the clutch for shifting and feathering purposes and leave the rest of lever travel as slack/lever play.

Adjusting the cable doesn't change pull ratio, clutch engagement point or how abrupt it may engage, as in all at once towards the end. My KLR is like that too.

One solution I've seen done with a decent outcome, as told by those that have tried it, is too lengthen the lifter rod lever to change the pull ratio. You cut the lever at its midpoint and weld/braze in a 1/2" or so piece in between.

a 30 year old XR80 ? Sounds like the cable is stretched. Get a new cable.

a 30 year old XR80 ? Sounds like the cable is stretched. Get a new cable.

Well, it's a XL250, 1980......stored for 20 years and only 4k on the meter. Doubt its a stetched cable....For sure needs to be ridden though...:thumbsup:

if the cable is not stretched, you should just be able to use the adjuster at the lever and the adjuster at the bottom (if there is one) and change the engagement point.

You can use the cable adjusters to dial in a lot of slack/lever play to reduce the amount of pull on the lifter mechanism before the lever is pulled to the bar. Just determine how much actuation you need to disengage the clutch for shifting and feathering purposes and leave the rest of lever travel as slack/lever play.

Adjusting the cable doesn't change pull ratio, clutch engagement point or how abrupt it may engage, as in all at once towards the end. My KLR is like that too.

One solution I've seen done with a decent outcome, as told by those that have tried it, is too lengthen the lifter rod lever to change the pull ratio. You cut the lever at its midpoint and weld/braze in a 1/2" or so piece in between.

I learn here every week. :thumbsup:

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