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Rear brake pads...insight?

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I have a friend with a 150R and he's attempting to change the rear brake pads. He's managed to get the old pads off but can't get the caliper to compress to get the new pads on. Typically, I don't have brake changing issues and thinking that if I was there, I'd be able to figure it out but he's not as mechanically inclined as I am (and I certainly have my limitations). Is there any tricks to accomplishing this or is he just too green. I'll be visiting him this weekend so if need be, I'll finish the job for him but looking to see if there's anything "special" with regard to this bike that he needs to know.

I know the calipers on some cars actually turn in order to compress and was wondering if there's something similar with respect to this bike. I did search the net for videos or manuals and find it strange that I found absolutely nothing.

Thanks for any help....dk

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On our two strokes I just leave the old pads in and pry them apart with a screwdriver or whatever before removing them. This bike is new to me and I have'nt touched them but I would think worse case scenario just remove the MC cap and use a c clamp if their tuff. What does the manual say?

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That is what I've always done. Screwdriver wedged between the old pads and the caliper moves pretty easy.

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On our two strokes I just leave the old pads in and pry them apart with a screwdriver or whatever before removing them. This bike is new to me and I have'nt touched them but I would think worse case scenario just remove the MC cap and use a c clamp if their tuff. What does the manual say?

opening the cap isnt great idea. then you risk spraying fluid all over everything.

ASSuming the res wasnt filled when the pads were worn, there is room for the fluid to return. if its FULL with worn pads, then some fluid will need removed first.

the piston will easily compress with the cap on.

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I agree on not opening the cap. I dont. I just thought since he was having such a hard time perhaps someone had added fluid when pads were thin thereby locking everything up.

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Make sure the master is not closed at all, Some people adjust all the play out of the pedal and that closes off the return holes. Also make sure the the piston is very clean before you push all that crap back into the caliper.

If all else fails open the bleed screw not the top of the master. That way you can put a tube on it and direct the fuild to some place safe.

You should flush the old fuild out anyway when the new pads are on.

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