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How to clean a carburetor

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So I just pick up a bike the other day that had been sitting for quite some time. I took the carburetor apart and to no surprise it was all gummed up. I attempted to clean it, but it is really really caked on, EVERYWHERE, any suggestions on how to effectively and safely clean it?

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Disassemble as much as you can. Do not remove and 'tamper proof' screws.

You can soak the float bowl and any all brass parts (no rubber or plastic on them) in carb cleaner. The rest, careful use of a soft brush and brake or electrical parts cleaner. Do not use any wire or rigid material to poke at it, nylon fishing line is ok.

Buy a new pilot jet, do not bother to try to clean it.

If you are not up to the task, a good bike mechanic or a place like ZipTy have specialized equipment for cleaning and potentially are worth the exorbitant price.

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Also, when it's all cleaned out, make sure to blow out all passages with compressed air. If you don't have an air compressor, buy a couple cans of that compressed air for cleaning keyboards, electronics and such.

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Thanks guys I will try that I do have access to air and I wasn't sure if brake clean would be ok it seems to leave a residue.

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Ok so I let some carb. parts and other stuff soak over night in brake clean and sure enough still caked on there just like I didn't let it soak. I'm gonna need some serious stuff. I have some degreaser at work that will strip paint so maybe I will try that. I guess my last question is, is there any plastic inside the carb other than the float, or is all the rest metal?

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Disassemble as much as you can. Do not remove and 'tamper proof' screws.

I gotta disagree. With one exception, every screw I've ever removed I'm glad I did. The one I wish I hadn't was just a stop, Yamaha put it in with permanent loc-tite and I sheared it off. I ended up drilling and tapping it again.

The tamper-proof screws were also loc-tited in place, however if I hadn't removed that part an O-ring would have been soaked in parts cleaner and most likely damaged.

If you find one that's been loc-tited in place, you can try using a soldering iron to heat the loc-tite which will soften it so it'll break free. I'd recommend running a tap through those holes to clean any remaining loc-tite out.

Then again, if you're not going to soak the part, it's not as important.

Also, while not as good as a real ultra-sonic cleaner, I glued velcro on to attach my palm sander onto the top of my parts cleaning can.

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I gotta disagree. With one exception, every screw I've ever removed I'm glad I did. The one I wish I hadn't was just a stop, Yamaha put it in with permanent loc-tite and I sheared it off. I ended up drilling and tapping it again.

The tamper-proof screws were also loc-tited in place, however if I hadn't removed that part an O-ring would have been soaked in parts cleaner and most likely damaged.

If you find one that's been loc-tited in place, you can try using a soldering iron to heat the loc-tite which will soften it so it'll break free. I'd recommend running a tap through those holes to clean any remaining loc-tite out.

Then again, if you're not going to soak the part, it's not as important.

Also, while not as good as a real ultra-sonic cleaner, I glued velcro on to attach my palm sander onto the top of my parts cleaning can.

You can only rec. doing this to an experienced person. If a person has to ask what cleaners to use, I am not going to tell them to delve into areas of a carb that can be tricky for the unintiated. An FCR is way too expensive to a N00B to screw up.

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I just cleaned my wifes virago carb yesterday after sitting for 3 years. If you have ever been inside a carb of a bike that has been sitting it is NASTY GUMMY! While looking for the Yamaha metal tank cleaner I saw where they also offered a bottle of carb cleaner (Yamaha part number ACC-CARBC-LE-NR $10 ) that mixed with water......so I ordered a bottle. I must say it worked really well. The green sludge came right off after sitting for a few hours. Pop the lid on my little bucket and I have it ready for the next time!

CARB2.jpg

FLOATBOWLS.jpg

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Nice, looks like it worked good.

There are a few people on here who were saying that a diluted solution of pine-sol and water works really really well for cleaning a carb. Let sit over night.

Not to sure how it would affect rubber seals, or the really thin membranes found in an FCR, but maybe diluting it in water makes it ok?

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FLOATBOWLS.jpg
I don't get the second photo. What is it (besides float bowls in a vise) A before/after, different solutions, Electrolytic cleaning vs. solvent?

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Mr FCR carb is very pricey so take it slow with this process and do the research first. there are tons of carb cleaning resource and videos online that will guide you every step of the way. "remember the more you read, the more you know"

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I don't get the second photo. What is it (besides float bowls in a vise) A before/after, different solutions, Electrolytic cleaning vs. solvent?

I had just poured the Yamaha solution into the back carb. The green goo floated to the top after it came free from the bottom of the carb and eventually dissolved into the solution. I dropped the jets into the float bowl and they came out spotless!

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Ok you guys so I figured a solution out that works very well and with a time and a scrubber, your carb is spotless. Laundry detergent!! But my problem is not yet over you see. So I reassembled the carb set the pilot and reinstalled it. I put the choke on and within two kicks, it was hummin. I let it idle for a minute and proceeded to turn the choke off when as soon as I even touched the choke even a tad, the bike died. I suspect it might be running way too lean and needs the needle notched but I really don't know. everything works amazing, throttle response it great but as soon as I pull the clutch it dies. anything?

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