TE511 too lean / cutting out at stops.

I have a 2011 TE511, which is a great bike so far, but every time I drop from cruising speed to stop for a stop sign or red light, the bike cuts out and dies. I can usually bump it back on, or sometimes I need to hit the starter to get her goin again - and it's a little hard to start at that point.

The dealer says it's a common problem, the street legals are too lean, and they need to be remapped!? I can't imagine Husky would let a bike out the factory with a serious problem like this!?!? I'm afraid to ride the damn thing out of my neighborhood now!

The bike is bone stock, with 25 miles on it. Will a "race prep" and a new pipe help this problem, as this bike is EFI....:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Yep. Just plug the little plug in that came with the bike under the seat and it will go to the race Map and run GREAT. Mine was the same way. You should feel lucky the TE310 and 630 take hours of removing and remapping to run right. These bikes are street and green sticker legal so they come so lean they will hardly run. IMHO they should be put in power up mode ASAP so they are not running lean and being dangerous. Under the seat about 1/3rd of the way back you will find the connector for the plugin to put it in "race map: which is richer and fixes this issue, makes it run way better and have more power.

BTW once you take the stock can off or take the CAT out of it it will default to "race map II" and RIP. .

Thanks! I'm gonna try it when I get home! :thumbsup:

Thanks! I'm gonna try it when I get home! :thumbsup:

Be prepared to be VERY happy. Might need two :thumbsup::banana:

Then if your adventurous try this... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/decatting-the-te511-muffler.17574/

and it will default to "race map II" and :cheers::banana::bonk::banana::smirk:

- BTW use the cut off tool or grinder as it just killed saw blades. VERY happy with the performance now. Feels 4-7 HP across the board and runs perfect.

:lol:

When you do the powerUp, your 6 month warranty reverts to a 30 day warranty.

Yep. Just plug the little plug in that came with the bike under the seat and it will go to the race Map and run GREAT. Mine was the same way. You should feel lucky the TE310 and 630 take hours of removing and remapping to run right. These bikes are street and green sticker legal so they come so lean they will hardly run. IMHO they should be put in power up mode ASAP so they are not running lean and being dangerous. Under the seat about 1/3rd of the way back you will find the connector for the plugin to put it in "race map: which is richer and fixes this issue, makes it run way better and have more power.

BTW once you take the stock can off or take the CAT out of it it will default to "race map II" and RIP. .

I went home last night and pulled the seat. I found two plugs, both in the same spot (about 1/3 of the way back), one was a two wire plug, the other a larger four wire plug. I assume one of the two is the right one, but I couldn't find any other plug these would plug into. Are you saying power up is simply removing a plug and plugging the "power up" plug in, or is this where the dealer would plug their software in to re-map???

I went home last night and pulled the seat. I found two plugs, both in the same spot (about 1/3 of the way back), one was a two wire plug, the other a larger four wire plug. I assume one of the two is the right one, but I couldn't find any other plug these would plug into. Are you saying power up is simply removing a plug and plugging the "power up" plug in, or is this where the dealer would plug their software in to re-map???

If the power-up/race jumper plug fits then its the right connector :thumbsup:

The other connector is for diagnostics only, with the new Keihin and the New Husqvarna dealer service tool, there is no re-mapping of the ecu available, but also not needed, it's very very good from the factory. A Power Commander V with auto tune is the only way to really tweak it any further with a real result.

The stumbling/dying will get better with more miles too, although doing the power up mod is the first big step. Do the new bikes also have a throttle stop similar to my 2010 SMR? If so, remove that too for the full potential.

A Power Commander V with auto tune is the only way to really tweak it any further with a real result.

Nope...

JD has a very nice programmer, works great, can dial settings on the trail, will be testing shortly. Buddy running this on his 2010 TXC250 with excellent results and that bike is semi problematic.

efi_sm.jpg

Be prepared to be VERY happy. Might need two :thumbsup::banana:

Then if your adventurous try this... http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/decatting-the-te511-muffler.17574/

and it will default to "race map II" and :confused::banana::worthy::banana::busted:

- BTW use the cut off tool or grinder as it just killed saw blades. VERY happy with the performance now. Feels 4-7 HP across the board and runs perfect.

:smirk:

I decatted my stock muffler last night, and it's still cutting out! Man, this problem is pissing me off! I called JD, Power Commander and iBeat and all of them are still in development for my bike. I can't believe this would happen. Damn California air nazis! I don't even want to ride to bike for fears I'll end up cutting out on some slippery trail somewhere and go sliding off the trial - or cutting out at a stop light and get rear ended! What a bummer! What else can I do!? What does a "race prep" consist of? Can I cap my O2 sensor?

I decatted my stock muffler last night, and it's still cutting out! Man, this problem is pissing me off! I called JD, Power Commander and iBeat and all of them are still in development for my bike. I can't believe this would happen. Damn California air nazis! I don't even want to ride to bike for fears I'll end up cutting out on some slippery trail somewhere and go sliding off the trial - or cutting out at a stop light and get rear ended! What a bummer! What else can I do!? What does a "race prep" consist of? Can I cap my O2 sensor?

did you plug in the power up resistor under the seat? If not decatting it will only make it worse. Does it say "race map" or "race map II" on your dash when the bike is running? leave the O2 sensor in. The JD thing should be ready to go shortly but really is not needed. If you have "race map" showing on your dash and it still cuts out something is wrong.

I can't find a plug that the power up resistor will fit into. I took out every plug I can find anywhere near the resistor and all of them are different from it / won't fit. Am I missing something???

And I didn't notice on my dash if it said race map or race map II. I did notice though, after cutting the cat out, it's definitely got more low end and seems to pull harder as I get up on top (mind you, I haven't had the bike over 60mph, as I'm just now getting into maybe the second hour of riding it).

It is a must and the key to making the bike run fantastic. I'll go snap a pic for you.

Edit - Found a pic. So in this pic just to the left of the part marked "Keihn" (under the seat, just behind the air box) you see the big plug (just above the shroud bolt), that is for the diagnostic interface, Under that is the little two prong connector for the EFI to get to the rich map. You should have received a plug to plug into this port. Small plug with a little wire looping back into itself. You can see the wire just above the lower bolt in this pic.

You need to install this, it makes all the difference in the world. With it installed the bike will run perfect and have lots more power everywhere.

dscf7737-L.jpg

Ya, those are the two I found. But I definitely didn't receive any additional parts with my bike. I'll call the dealer if need be. Thanks for all your help!

Ya, those are the two I found. But I definitely didn't receive any additional parts with my bike. I'll call the dealer if need be. Thanks for all your help!

No problem. For sure get the plug, it makes all the difference.

YUP!!! That tiny little plug made all the difference in the world! It went from zero to hero in one click! I noticed it was in race map II, it didn't stall out and it RIPS up AND down hills now (it used to cut out going down hill / off the gas). Man, am I relieved!

Now...it's time for some modifications! I'm taking it to FMF on Friday and they're going to build a complete exhaust system for it (use mine as the test bike), then to RG3 for the suspension work, GPR already has a stabilizer and definitely need new sprockets (it maxes out around 70mph).

Happy with my Husky!

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