DRZ 400 S Shock Shimstack

I currently run blue high speed compression full out. I am rebuilding spare shock I have and would like to alter shimstack to get blue knob back in to more of center position. Any suggestions. Present stock stack.

44 0.200 x 4

44 0.150 x 3

34 0.150

26 0.100

42 0.200

40 0.200

38 0.200

36 0.200

34 0.200

32 0.200

30 0.200

28 0.200

26 0.200

24 0.200

22 0.200

20 0.300

40 0.300 x 2

Thanks

the shims near the 42.2 are the ones with the most influence on hs

Mog why wouldn't you change thickness of 22 24 26 .25 or .30

The shock needs more LS

karl you could be in % terms it will be under 5 % stiffer, and to get the hs adjuster back to centre it will take more than 5% IMO

the first shim after the cross over has a huge effect on hs

Thanks for you replies

fred88

Russ? Any suggestions for valving a 400 E with a lowering link? I've tried to explain to the owner it would make more sense to go back to stock link and shorten travel but he won't budge. Bike is a 2004 and shock has never been serviced. Complaint is bottoming. He says comp is fully IN but I'm not convinced he knows which clicker is which...

Edit: Found this stacks for the E model? How much shock travel do they have and linkage ratio? I would REALLY prefer to use an internal spacer to lower it.

4) .20x44

3) .15x44

1) .15x34

1) .10x26

1) .20x42

1) .20x40

1) .20x38

1) .20x36

1) .20x34

1) .25x32

1) .25x30

1) .25x28

1) .25x26

1) .25x24

1) .25x22

1) .30x20

2) .30x40

PLATE

1) .60x18

Starting at the piston, Rebound side:

6) .20x40

1) .10x25

1) .20x40

1) .25x38

2) .25x36

1) .25x34

1) .30x32

1) .30x30

1) .30x28

1) .30x26

1) .30x24

1) .60x25

PLATE

Edited by KTM-Lew

till it has fresh oil how can you tell the bottoming is not due to degraded oil

Yea and like no gas!

Russ? Any suggestions for valving a 400 E with a lowering link? I've tried to explain to the owner it would make more sense to go back to stock link and shorten travel but he won't budge. Bike is a 2004 and shock has never been serviced. Complaint is bottoming. He says comp is fully IN but I'm not convinced he knows which clicker is which...

Edit: Found this stacks for the E model? How much shock travel do they have and linkage ratio? I would REALLY prefer to use an internal spacer to lower it.

4) .20x44

3) .15x44

1) .15x34

1) .10x26

1) .20x42

1) .20x40

1) .20x38

1) .20x36

1) .20x34

1) .25x32

1) .25x30

1) .25x28

1) .25x26

1) .25x24

1) .25x22

1) .30x20

2) .30x40

PLATE

1) .60x18

Starting at the piston, Rebound side:

6) .20x40

1) .10x25

1) .20x40

1) .25x38

2) .25x36

1) .25x34

1) .30x32

1) .30x30

1) .30x28

1) .30x26

1) .30x24

1) .60x25

PLATE

Sorry Lew didn't see this.. It depends on the link they are using and how much a drop. Most of the time when they use these types of lowering links it requires a stiffer spring.... does the E have reb adj. cant remember off the top of my head

It is lowered 1.5" with a Moose link.

I agree on all the above. Until it's freshened up, you can't really know what to do. I actually think I'm going to pass on this one. The owner won't listen to anything I say so I'm going to suggest he take it back to the guy that worked on it last. Just really don't want to get in the middle of it. I completely disagree with using the linkage to lower the bike. They are too soft for an aggressive rider to start with. Changing the linkage just amplifies the issue.

Russ? Any suggestions for valving a 400 E with a lowering link? I've tried to explain to the owner it would make more sense to go back to stock link and shorten travel but he won't budge. Bike is a 2004 and shock has never been serviced. Complaint is bottoming. He says comp is fully IN but I'm not convinced he knows which clicker is which...

Edit: Found this stacks for the E model? How much shock travel do they have and linkage ratio? I would REALLY prefer to use an internal spacer to lower it.

You are dead on...... Tell him from another reasonable DRZ proficient and experienced person... FORGET the lowering links...the lowering spacer is easy to install... and if your doing shim stack work..... no extra effort at all.

YES,. the suspension linkage has a ratio... it is about 4:1 for lowering. 10mm spacer gets you 40mm lowering.

You are dead on...... Tell him from another reasonable DRZ proficient and experienced person... FORGET the lowering links...the lowering spacer is easy to install... and if your doing shim stack work..... no extra effort at all.

YES,. the suspension linkage has a ratio... it is about 4:1 for lowering. 10mm spacer gets you 40mm lowering.

I've decided to punt so doesn't matter.

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