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Chain upgrade, sprocket change?

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I'm using my 88 XR600 for mostly commuting and noticed the chain is a NON o-ring DID 520 chain. Sprockets are 15/50. I would like to upgrade to a more reliable O-Ring chain and possibly change the sprocket sizes. I know that if you put on a new chain you should put on new sprockets too.

My commute is 20 miles round trip on country 55 MPH roads. NO high speed highway in the near future. I will be doing some off road riding, mainly trails, no slow technical stuff. Probably 60/40 riding now. I'm wondering if the 15/50 is still a good ratio to go with? Also should I get a 110 or 112 link chain when I do decide? Any advise or help will be greatly appreciated.

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In my slyghtly ignorant opinion

first I have a 650l and I believe the 650r cs backwards sprocket is a must for the L. For everyone else on theL an absolute must!!!!!!!

second, on my bike, If I were to do just 55mph country roads I would choose the 14 toothe cs sprocket, to me cruisin 55 steady on it would be much, but I am imagining country roads arent a steady 55 and it would make for the cats ass when you do get off the macadam, and wiill surley boost your technical train riding :smiley with a mug:]

hopin this will stir some extra truth for your bike. but with a rear 50 I don't konw sos I'm going for the Jack

Drink Jack and coke you can't farg it up.

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In my slyghtly ignorant opinion

first I have a 650l and I believe the 650r cs backwards sprocket is a must for the L. For everyone else on theL an absolute must!!!!!!!

second, on my bike, If I were to do just 55mph country roads I would choose the 14 toothe cs sprocket, to me cruisin 55 steady on it would be much, but I am imagining country roads arent a steady 55 and it would make for the cats ass when you do get off the macadam, and wiill surley boost your technical train riding :smiley with a mug:]

hopin this will stir some extra truth for your bike. but with a rear 50 I don't konw sos I'm going for the Jack

Drink Jack and coke you can't farg it up.

i'm not even sure what that meant.:thumbsup:

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Does the 88 XR600 have the 13 spline or the 6 spline countershaft?

I'm not sure an O-ring chain is more reliable than a tended non-o-ring.

Dave

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Does the 88 XR600 have the 13 spline or the 6 spline countershaft?

I'm not sure an O-ring chain is more reliable than a tended non-o-ring.

Dave

It's a six spline. All XR600 of 1990 and earlier have the six spline countershaft.

As far as gearing it all depends on your intended use. I have stock 14/48 on mu XR600 and it's a decent compromise. When I hit the technical stuff I swap the countershaft to a 13 tooth.

If you want max life go with a name brand ring style chain and a steel rear sprocket.

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Does the 88 XR600 have the 13 spline or the 6 spline countershaft?

I'm not sure an O-ring chain is more reliable than a tended non-o-ring.

Dave

It has the 6 spline.

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It's a six spline. All XR600 of 1990 and earlier have the six spline countershaft.

As far as gearing it all depends on your intended use. I have stock 14/48 on mu XR600 and it's a decent compromise. When I hit the technical stuff I swap the countershaft to a 13 tooth.

If you want max life go with a name brand ring style chain and a steel rear sprocket.

It's got a Sunstar T6 rear sprocket on it now. How would it be if I were to go with a 14 front instead of the 15 and keep a 50 rear? I thought that 14/50 is stock gearing?

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It's got a Sunstar T6 rear sprocket on it now. How would it be if I were to go with a 14 front instead of the 15 and keep a 50 rear? I thought that 14/50 is stock gearing?

What are you trying to get? More low end or top end.

3t on back = 1 tooth on front.

15t (front) is TALLER gearing than 14t (faster top speed, less low end grunt)

BUT

50t (rear) is LOWER than stock 45t, in fact that's about as low as you can go.

If you want more low end grunt for trails, put a 14t front and keep the 50t rear, that's some stump pulling gearing.

If you want more speed in each gear, lose the 50t rear and go to a stock 45t.

15/45 is a very nice street combo and an easy front swap to 14t makes it really nice for trails.

Nothing wrong with non O-ring chains, they just don't last as long. That's all.

if it's in good shape don't change it.

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What are you trying to get? More low end or top end.

3t on back = 1 tooth on front.

15t (front) is TALLER gearing than 14t (faster top speed, less low end grunt)

BUT

50t (rear) is LOWER than stock 45t, in fact that's about as low as you can go.

If you want more low end grunt for trails, put a 14t front and keep the 50t rear, that's some stump pulling gearing.

If you want more speed in each gear, lose the 50t rear and go to a stock 45t.

15/45 is a very nice street combo and an easy front swap to 14t makes it really nice for trails.

Nothing wrong with non O-ring chains, they just don't last as long. That's all.

if it's in good shape don't change it.

THANKS for the comments and advice! That's exactly what I was looking for!

BTW ALL the literature, ebay and sites I've been on show the stock gearing for my 88 is 14/50 112 link...Is that right?

One more thing, IF I go to a 15/45 combo do I still need a 112 or a 110 size chain?

Sorry for all the questions.......Just educating myself on my new summer ride :thumbsup:

Edited by Alaskajeff

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Don't have a manual for that bike so I'm sure their right. That's surprisingly low to me, but it wasn't a dual sport, so I guess it makes sense.

Anywhere you buy the sprockets will be able to tell you how many links you need for the sprocket combination you want to run. With all the adjustment for the rear axle, you can usually span the "normal" ranges of gearing without having to add or remove links.

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One more thing, IF I go to a 15/45 combo do I still need a 112 or a 110 size chain?

As we speak, I'm monkeying with my chain/gear ratio on my 2007 XR650L. (That's what led me to this thread.)

For my thumper, stock is 15/45 with 110 link chain.

I bought a spare rear wheel with a 50 tooth sprocket. The stock 110 chain is too short. The wheel came with an extra link and clip master link. But that didn't really work because, with two master links and the extra link, that makes the chain 114 and it was too long. (The snail adjuster maxed out both times and still didn't work.)

I need to be able switch chains and wheels: 45 and 110 for street and mild dirt, 50 and 112 for serious trails. At least that's my plan. Right now I'm planning to buy two new chains with clip master links.

(Not trying to hijack your thread. Just sharing what I know.)

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