Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

"Better than RTV Fix,....

Recommended Posts

So, picked up a near mint 01 Z400 E offroad dirtbike a few weeks back, rejetted, running awesome, full FMF, Manual Cam adjuster swap and just discovered on my first real days ride on it that I had the dreaded water pump coolant leak, SUCKED, was leaking from the large side cover gasket at the bottom. I tore it down earlier and gave the ceramic piece or crap seal a good look see, I had read where most used some RTV sealant to make the seal fit tighter to the impeller shaft with good results, naaahh, not me, I never thought that was a good idea, upon looking at the seal I noticed that the ceramic part was pretty wide only the thin little sweep that came in contact with the impeller shaft way to minimul, shame on you Suzuki, I took out an oring kit that I have and found an oring seal that was small enough and tight enough to slide down the shaft and fit perfectly into the ceramic seal creating a perfect water tight seal, causing more of a double seal. Well, rubbed a little brake fluid on the new seal, as I always do on all my seals, (makes rubber seal even tighter) buttoned it back up, fresh coolant, oil and filter and working flawlessly, took several tripps around the neighborhood on er and good and hot it is still working perfectly. I'm a hundred percent confident in my repair as opposed to the RTV idea, just wanted to let anyone else who runs in to this problem know to try the oring idea over the RTV fix. :thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

pics would have been nice.and oring diameter...but good to know

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea, I thought of that after the fact, I usually keep the camera on hand for such projects but wasn't originally planning on doing it today. If you pick a universal oring kit, they start out very small and with a little trial and error you can find the right one, the sizes are actually worn off of my kit so not much help there either,...:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I see what you are saying. However my theory is the leak is the result of the rubber backed ceramic disc slipping inside the impeller. The disc is driven from the friction of the rubber lip on the OD. So bonding it in place with RTV seems to make sense. My experience is I had the leak. 1st try I just cleaned and put it back together with no repair. Lasted about 6 months. 2nd try I used Ultra black between the disc and the impeller. Lasted about 8 years. 3rd try I used Ultra Gray between the disc and the impeller. In servie about 2 years and counting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I see what you are saying. However my theory is the leak is the result of the rubber backed ceramic disc slipping inside the impeller. The disc is driven from the friction of the rubber lip on the OD. So bonding it in place with RTV seems to make sense. My experience is I had the leak. 1st try I just cleaned and put it back together with no repair. Lasted about 6 months. 2nd try I used Ultra black between the disc and the impeller. Lasted about 8 years. 3rd try I used Ultra Gray between the disc and the impeller. In servie about 2 years and counting.

Sounds like pretty good results, the oring I put on the shaft actually squeezed tightly into the gap between shaft and ceramic seal, securing everything tightly in place, I don't forsee any issues every arising from it but I will post back after a few long hot days riding here soon.:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Bignerd0100100
      Hey all, 
      I'm looking at buying a 2004 Suzuki DRZ400EK or at least I think it's an EK according to Vin lookup websites, but it does not appear to have a kickstarter. I was told the bike was owned by a motorcycle dealer and that it has a current green sticker, and a California license plate but has not been registered for the streets since 2011. I want this as a dual sport but am not clear if the fact that it already has a plate means I am good to register it or if maybe they took away the ability to register it after it was plated, California loves to do that kind of stuff. Since the bike was owned by a dealer I would think they were up on the latest regulations in California, but who knows. Can anyone add any insight as to what I should look for on the bike itself like the carburetor, model numbers etc? Or do I just try my luck at the DMV?
    • By smokey9lives
      Hi,
      I have a 2003 DRZ (actually a KLX400) and the head tube bearings are shot.  I ordered a new set to install but I'm wondering if anyone has any recommendations on other parts I should replace while I have the front disassembled.  I was thinking about new rubber fork protectors, but are there other things that wear out on the DRZ front ends that you can only get to when disassambled?
      I also broke off a replacement key that I got for the steering lock.  I must have been made of cheap pot-metal.  Should I just remove the whole lock mechanism?
      Any tips or tricks for getting the old bearings out and the new ones in would be welcome!
      Thanks!
    • By antonyp
      Hey Guys,
      I recently bought a 2003 DRZ400S and thought it would be a good idea to check the valves clearance etc . I timed the engine on TDC with the magneto mark aligned as per the manual but I find the cam timing slightly odd. The arrows pointing upward are on the 1st and 15th pin as they should but with the magneto timing mark aligned they are not perfectly straight. Same goes for the arrows that should be parallel to the cylinder head casing. Is this normal or should they be absolutely perfect ?
       

×