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NEED HELP PLS WITH 05 crf250r!!!!PLEASE HELP


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im new here to thumper talk

i hav an 05 crf250r the whole motor is fresh literally not even two hours on everything.

ok since i got the bike i thought it was a pain in the ass to start but figured it was becaus i am used to two strokes. than i thought it could be valves they were in good shape but replaced em anyway.

but now the latest problem is today i went out riding came out of a corner and pinned it and the bike just bogged out and died and would not refire i had to push it 4 miles home!!! ?

so i went home cleaned out the carb checked all the wires and by the grace of god it fired up so i went riding only to have the same thing happen again!!!

im thinking electrical like cdi box wat do u guys think???

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Four strokes have an accelerator pump that squirts gas into the intake everytime you twist the throttle. They can get out of adjustment, wear out or get clogged up. If this happens, the engine can hesitate (bog) or stall when you twist the throttle if the accelerator pump doesn't squirt enough fuel when you twist the throttle. Normally if this is the problem, usually when you hit the throttle quickly and it bogs, if you let off of the throttle quick enough the engine will stay running, but if you hit it quickly and it bogs and you keep the throttle twisted, it will usually go ahead and stall.

Now you mentioned you are having a hard time getting it started cold, due to the fact that you're not familiar with the 4 stroke. That can come into play for hot starting as well, especially after a lean bog. Most of the time on a 4 stroke when you're starting it hot, you want to hold the hot start lever when kick starting. That's because usually a 4 stroke is "flooded" when hot. The hot start lever when pulled opens up to let in extra air to "unflood" the engine without twisting the throttle. First thing I would do when it stalls, is pull the hot start lever and kick the bike over with out touching the throttle. If it doesn't start after several good kicks, then you may try twisting the throttle a couple of times then kick it over. Although the motor is normally hot and flooded and needs the hot start lever pulled to start it, after a lean bog and stall, it could actually be starving for fuel and need a couple of twists of the throttle.

Sorry I threw a bunch at you all at once, but try these things and report back. And yes you could have an electrical shut down due to excessive resistance somewhere on the ignition system, that only show up when you hit the throttle. But that's another story.

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even wen i let off tho itll shut down wen it chooses to shut down no matter wat i do it is going to shut down no stopping her lol.

and yes ive gotten familiar with the hot start since owning the bike but like i said this thing has been a pain to start since i got her i got her used off some kid who didnt kno shit so.... yea

im still leaning toward electrical any other ideas....????

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I think what I would do next is get the engine to stall. Have a spare spark plug in your pocket. When it stalls, pull the plug wire off and place the spare plug in the plug wire. Ground the metal body of the plug on the engine and kick the engine over and see if you can see spark jump across the tip of the plug. This will be tough to do by yourself because you will have to hold the spark plug body grounded, and kick it over hard enough for the magento to produce spark. Plus in the daylight it can be hard to see the spark. If you can get it to stall around your shop and have someone to help, that would be alot easier than by yourself out in the woods somewhere. There is an ohms test for the ignition coil and the magneto windings, but not sure what those readings are. I don't think there is a test for the ignition box than "try a known good unit". Keep in mind no matter what test/procedure you try, the problem needs to be present at that time. Intermittent failures can be tough to diagnose. I always tell my customers that fixing a car is easy, diagnosing is the tough part.

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and regarding my timing being off let me remind you sometimes i can pull the bike out and on the very first kick it will start but only that one time it will run for a few mins or so than die no matter what i do even if im pinned!!!!

than after that forget about it takes like 50 kicks to even start it

and on 40 of them 50 kicks the bike doesnt even sound like it trys to start

and sometimes it will start run for a couple seconds than bog out

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check simple things such as kill switch , unplug it to rule that out. Also if you have a check valve on your fuel cap vent line remove it, or check it for proper operation. check ground connections. On next starting attempt & it wont start , you need to verify spark & fuel. I had a similar condition & it was shavings on the stator pickup coil disrupting signal to cdi

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check simple things such as kill switch , unplug it to rule that out. Also if you have a check valve on your fuel cap vent line remove it, or check it for proper operation. check ground connections. On next starting attempt & it wont start , you need to verify spark & fuel. I had a similar condition & it was shavings on the stator pickup coil disrupting signal to cdi

X2 ?

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Yes it would. Did you try the simple things that were suggested? (very important) i would check electrical system. You can use an volt ohm meter to ohm out the ign. Pulse generator (pickup coil;) & exciter coil (stator) pick up coil should be between 180 & 280 ohms. (blue/yellow strip) & green/yellow stripe. Stator 9-25 ohms. These ypou can check by simply unpluging the components. If the reading pass there can still be a problem. You remove the left hand cover & visually inspect pickup coil. (check the solder spots that connect the wires to coil. If there is an accumulation of shavings this can cause problems. The shavings create a short in a sence. Voltage from coil is very low, close to 1 volt. If shavings are present you may have a mech. Problem. If shavings are present clean and put rtv over the solder spots & reinstall......these are only suggetions from past experience .

9

9....,,

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Yes I tried a lot of the simplest stuff disconnecting kill switch etc

All the readings checked out

Now for shavings I would look for them on my oil right?

How would I get rid of them?? Just change Oil?

It could be shavings cause I recently had the crank seize on me!!!r

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Yes I tried a lot of the simplest stuff disconnecting kill switch etc

All the readings checked out

Now for shavings I would look for them on my oil right?

How would I get rid of them?? Just change Oil?

It could be shavings cause I recently had the crank seize on me!!!r

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ok check it out so messed with it for a bit changed the oil and tried dumb shit and heres my findings

first off there were no shavings in oil

second when i shut the bike down if i give it a handful right before i shut it down it makes it alot easier to start

if it just stalls out it is way harder not just like a few more kicks either ... more like its damn near impossible to get it fired back up!!!

any thoughts???

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Ok, you said you checked and cleaned the carb. You didnt happen to check the float level did you???? I wonder if it is sticking open or not closing when it is supposed to. Float level for an 05 is 8mm to lightly seat the needle. The float arm lip should be just lightly touching the top of the float needle not pushing down on the top of it. Is there gas running out of the overflow tube on the bottom of the carb? Is the fuel filter inside of the tank plugged up? Shine a flashlight in there and look at it. Should be able to see it pretty easy?

When your bike stalls out while riding try turning off the gas and leaning the bike over to drain some of the fuel out of the float bowl. Then try to restart it but dont turn the gas back on until it restarts.

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