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Little help please.

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My friend was changing the oil and managed to hulk out enough and tighten the drain plug on the engine so much that he cracked the case. Any ideas for the best fix for this? It spreads more when you put the plug back in. The cracks about 1" long.

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damn!!! your friend on your bike, or his? why do people do this, it has a sealing washer...i don't know, but pretty sure its screwed. i'm sure somone will chime in..

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From what Ive read there really arent any fixes other than getting a whole different engine for it.. Otherwise I guess JB weld or a similar product is worth a shot, its worth a couple bucks to try and find something that works first.

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A good weld job will be okay. If not you can find complete bottom ends pretty cheap on eBay if the weld don't cut it.

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I suspect the JB Weld will also crack if no reinforcement. If he really does not want to get it welded he could try gluing on a piece of flat stock aluminum with JB Weld (use the slow variety, it is a lot stronger). get as close to the hole as possible. Another idea would be to get a thick piece of flat stock large enough to extend past the crack. Drill and tap the plug into the patch, then glue it on to the case so the plug doesn't even screw into the case anymore.

It is strongly recommended that the crush washer be replaced frequently, if not every, time.

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The OEM style crush washer forms a triangular wedge shape after install, each re use after makes it more of a wedge shape.. It takes very little torque on the drain plug at this point for the wedge shape washer to fracture the case..

They can be reused... but are not designed to be, and more then one DRZ owner has found out why.

I prefer to always install a new crush washer with each oil chage..If am am stuck for a new one I remove the washer and turn it ,so the wedge faces the outside..

You can also use a flat copper or aluminum sealing washer... be very cautious in reusing the old crush washer....

I guess yours looks something like this...

attachment.php?attachmentid=11346&d=1250950422

Edited by CraigoDRZ400sm
typo

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Yes..it is a scary picture....I think of this every time I tighten my sump bolt....:thumbsup:

Great info. I hate to say it but i didn't know that was such an issue.:confused:

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Great info. I hate to say it but i didn't know that was such an issue.:confused:

That's what I love about this forum....the ability to learn from other people's misfortunes ...

And on the positive side ,the tips and problem solving is priceless....:thumbsup:

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Oil bolts

15 lbs/ft for the one under the engine.

13 lbs/ft for the one on the frame down tube.

Got this from tt somewhere before.. Used and done many changes no issues.. I use new crusher washers each time

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Got this from tt somewhere before.. Used and done many changes no issues.. I use new crusher washers each time

The numbers are correct, the concern with applying them is, few will own a torque wrench that is accurate at those low torque numbers. Most will be better served by simply using a 1/4 drive ratchet or a short box wrench and simply snugging up the drain bolts with a light touch.

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I rarely change the crush washer. I just snug the drain bolt and it doesn't leak. Maybe once a year I'll get a new crush washer.

Is that why you guys always change them? Fear of leaking?

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