2011 250sx fork settings that work pretty good .

Well I tried the race tech stuff etc.. have had the forks apart a few times trying different stuff . Here is the base valve setting and it works pretty good

put stock pistons back in .

12x24x.1 go to 9 350 oil height 15psi bladder

23x.1

22x.1

21x.1

20x.1 remove

19x.1

18x.1

17x.1

16x.1

15x.1 remove

14x.1

13x.1

12x.1

11x.1

10x.1 add this shim to base .

24x.25

Midvalve

3x20 .1s

2x18 .

1 x16

1x14

1 10.2

11x.25 add this shim to take float down leave stock backer under this .

18x.40 is the backer . I got a first and second tonite just got home

second In plus 40 got tired last lap was leading finally got passed two straight aways left . Rutted sand and clay mix track coming up short on the tables I didnt bottom track was wet and rutted . will report back when I get on a hard pack track again all in all pretty happy . The goldvalves were a waste of money . (Stock base valves work better) . I added pillow top grips and the Ktm pdhs with the spacer didnt really get arm pump not sure if those helped or not . I find I rode on sat all day so might be the reason I didnt get arm pump tonite who knows. I'm 200 Lbs with gear and have pds 6 spring on rear stock valving and .46 springs in front .Pls excuse the poor grammar Ps when I had forks apart last nite I also greased the fork seals for less stiction seemed to help .

thanks for posting that dan

I have just done a set of 350 forks , was on full stiff

so this is what I am trying

3 extra face shims on base

float reduced from 0.7mm to 0.35

23psi bladder pressure

3mm extra preload on springs

but 360 cc instead of 380

we will see how it works , oh yes and Skf seals as STD lasted 7 hours of which only 2 hours was mud

Oh the skf didnt work very well then ? Ps I left the small spacer in on the midvalve . My reasoning behind this was because it allows the stem to maintain its length to allow more movement on the face shims before hitting the backer shim . I know alot of guys probably just remove this shim to obtain the desired float . IMO then the midvalve would hit the backer shim to soon and make the front end harsh . I rode the 350 On sat and agreed front was to soft I would imagine the heavier springs would help along with reducing the float I would be careful on how much you tighten the base though I found I had to go the opposite way and make the base softer . But the 350 may like different settings Let me know how it works out for you ? ps with heavier fork springs I would worry about 23 for bladder pressure make the front end ride to high for corners and not settle But then again worth a try for sure .

i would have not gone with more preload or bladder pressure or as stiff if we had a set of stiffer springs , but it's a bit of a band aid job , he doesn't want to spend too much as he is unsure if he wants to keep the bike

soon adds up

service

Skf seals

springs

if you don't want to keep the bike

the STD seals were the ones that didn't last

Oh understood on the pressure now It really does need the stiffer springs though as I think stock they are only .46 .

hey dan, didnt the race tech gold valves work to great in the wp forks what were they doing??

Well Maybe they could be made to work but It might be like ten times having the forks apart to make that happen honestly the stock valves work pretty good now . At least with the stock ones you have a baseline to start from . the race tech wasnt even in the ball park was way to soft . I just wanna ride and didnt feel like taking forks apart everytime I rode to change settings so was just easier to start with a known on the stock valves and tune from there .

where they actually good tho like what they say about gold valves plush ride with good bottom resistence how much different to stock

No Idea maybe with enough tuning if they were like that for me then I wouldnt have taken them back out .

ktm say the 350 springs are 0.48 which is actually 0.49kgmm but others say they are 0.46 I have not seen a STD spring that out of range but it would be good if someone has tested a STD spring ?

.46nm .47kg called on it just to double check .

Edited by dandimand

0.46nm and 0.47 kgmm you mean? rt say this but they maybe going from ktms manual?

Stock Fork Spring Rate 0.49 kg/mm (stock)

Yes your right stock are .46nm so that translates to .47 kg Just going by what I was told at another shop as per stock spring rates .

ktm say the 350 springs are 0.48 which is actually 0.49kgmm but others say they are 0.46 I have not seen a STD spring that out of range but it would be good if someone has tested a STD spring ?

:thumbsup: so true mate im so confused ever since the new 11s come out specially with the US and EU version why have diffrent springs rates

different valving and shock lengths as well :-(

i know for a fact that the 350 i rid here in nz was a euro version and it had the .48/5.4 combination, the only thing that put me off the 350 was it felt like it ride real high in the stroke when coming into corners specially flat turns the suspension didnt compress as much as it should to get good traction almost a stinkbug feel runing 102mm race sag and im 160 punds not a feather weight

you need to run about 110mm to help with the stinkbug feel , and you need a 5.2 really at your weight but i would leave the forks std.

you need to run about 110mm to help with the stinkbug feel , and you need a 5.2 really at your weight but i would leave the forks std.

dont you think that would give the bike a really high front end chopper feel and it would be a pig 2 turn and 110mm sag on a 5.2 spring thats a bit extream dont you think

not really as it's like the CRf and is a bit stinkbug

on the one I setup I put in a 6mm spacer which is 1mm more than the us version and at 100mm sag it was still stinkbug in feeling , 6mm in the shock is nearly 18mm at the wheel so it's 18mm lower than yours , the us one is 15mm lower than yours , don't ask me why ktm did this as I dint know

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