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11' 300 setup help and questions??

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Hi guys, got my husaberg te300, which is basically a ktm 300 with XC forks and 6 speed xc-w gearbox....

Long story short i been riding and wrenching to make it turn and be stable so i can go for a long weekend riding with buddies!!!:confused:

i got my sag to 114 with 35 static which i like the turning more with 110mm but was to twichy...have not fiddle the forks yet because i dont no how tto change the preload on these. do i need spacers or shims???

the bike has some high speed head shake so wondering if the offset if not already by the dealer to 22mm will help or droping the forks to the top line???

All help appriciated!!:thumbsup:

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i believe is pushing a bit in the corners, front tire will be changed with MT16 for dry conditions and hardpack for this time of year.....

but i believe i need to play with the sag to see what works because when it was 110mm it was more flickable but unstable now 114-115!! now that i got the stability i wanted with the forks on the last detent line i will reduce the sag a bit to get that flickability....thats the plan anyway....i see what works

also i need to set the sag on the forks, even though i dont know much about closed cardridge and some people say they dont need any adjustment....i belive i have to get more sag on the front also, probably is running a bit high on the front....!!!!

any suggestions......what are you been doing with yours????

what sag are you using on yours??

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KTM CC forks don't have externally asdjustable sag. There are internal shims you can add/remove. Search KTMTalk.com, there's a pictoral walkthrough on servicing/oil change for CC forks, you'll see the spacers.

Balancing turning/stability is painstaking. What are your clickers set at?

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:worthy:great, i look up the pictorial in ktm talk!!!!!:confused:

i had them as manual suggested in standart and yesterday in sport setting for the track....i go by the manufacturer untill everything else is set first!!!

thanks :thumbsup:

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am 180 lbs, bike is stock 69N/m shock and 42N/mm forks i have 35 mm static on the front...

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hi , i have the husaberg TE . i am 95 kg = 48 nm springs front and 80nm or 84 nm back.

i had to lower the front by 15-20 mm to get bike to turn as i like.

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i run 12 psi front and aft now is dry....i came off an xr400 which was running on rails on turns and straights, but heavy...and maybe too stable

Henning what sag are you running? when you say you lower the front did you increase the static sag? and how do you like it up to

now? i found out the chassis is from the 08' whats you likes and dislikes?

i thought of going one spring heavier on the back for less preload? which i backed off already on this one?

i read if more preload than 5mm the bike can stingbug what does that describe?

Edited by wblake

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Hmm. You have a lot going on here.

First, if the chassis is identical to the 2008 KTM 2-strokes, then the shock leverage ratio is different from the 2011 KTMs. In that case you will need a stiffer shock spring as Henning suggested. If the chassis is in fact the same as the 2011 KTMs, the shock spring should be pretty close.

Most would recommend stiffer fork springs for your weight, but that may increase the "push" you describe. For example, I am 165 lbs and use the 44 Nm springs. This makes me wonder if the push you describe is actually something else. A push is when the front tire slides across the dirt rather than biting in. You could easily experiment with fork height to increase and reduce the weight on the front and see what you like.

"Stinkbugging" is when the rear end of the bike jacks up, unbalancing the chassis and transferring too much weight to the front. In my experience the KTM PDS bikes do this a lot. I notice it most when entering corners with lots of braking bumps. It feels like the shock tops out and the bike won't track straight.

Less preload or more sag can help reduce the stinkbug.

A related symptom is side-swapping in whoops. Using the stock setup, the rear wheel would tend to swap side to side in whoops if I hit them at an angle. Perfectly perpendicular was okay, but whoops around a corner very tough.

I recently started running lots of sag on my 2011 bike. My tuner recommended 120 mm. I started with 115, then 120, and now am at 125. For me this has improved the straight line stability, made the bike more predictable in high speed corners, and reduced the tendency for the rear end to jack up entering corners.

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to get the rear to really work , you need low sag = 40 mm freesag (it is very touchy )then the bike pushes the front in turns. . i lowered the front by sliding the fork 15-20 mm in the clamps and got good feeling of the bike that i liked.

i have the öhlins ttx front and back allso, but the wp cc with 48 front and 80 or 84 rear works great for me, the ttx looks better :thumbsup:

i am seeking more low end and will get the fmf gnarly ,

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Hmm. You have a lot going on here.

First, if the chassis is identical to the 2008 KTM 2-strokes, then the shock leverage ratio is different from the 2011 KTMs. In that case you will need a stiffer shock spring as Henning suggested. If the chassis is in fact the same as the 2011 KTMs, the shock spring should be pretty close.

Most would recommend stiffer fork springs for your weight, but that may increase the "push" you describe. For example, I am 165 lbs and use the 44 Nm springs. This makes me wonder if the push you describe is actually something else. A push is when the front tire slides across the dirt rather than biting in. You could easily experiment with fork height to increase and reduce the weight on the front and see what you like.

"Stinkbugging" is when the rear end of the bike jacks up, unbalancing the chassis and transferring too much weight to the front. In my experience the KTM PDS bikes do this a lot. I notice it most when entering corners with lots of braking bumps. It feels like the shock tops out and the bike won't track straight.

Less preload or more sag can help reduce the stinkbug.

A related symptom is side-swapping in whoops. Using the stock setup, the rear wheel would tend to swap side to side in whoops if I hit them at an angle. Perfectly perpendicular was okay, but whoops around a corner very tough.

I recently started running lots of sag on my 2011 bike. My tuner recommended 120 mm. I started with 115, then 120, and now am at 125. For me this has improved the straight line stability, made the bike more predictable in high speed corners, and reduced the tendency for the rear end to jack up entering corners.

to get the rear to really work , you need low sag = 40 mm freesag (it is very touchy )then the bike pushes the front in turns. . i lowered the front by sliding the fork 15-20 mm in the clamps and got good feeling of the bike that i liked.

i have the öhlins ttx front and back also, but the wp cc with 48 front and 80 or 84 rear works great for me, the ttx looks better :confused:

i am seeking more low end and will get the fmf gnarly ,

firstly thank you for all the explanation!!!:thumbsup:

when you say the 08 with 11 chassis have different leverage ratios does that mean still that the numbers of free and rider sag will tell if a heavier spring is needed???

i believe it pushes in the corners with more sag because when i was running less she turned just by looking the other way (coming off the xr400)...i will try more sag and compensate with the forks as you both suggest, and even a heavier spring for more free sag if have too...!!!!

am happy that you say she can be tuned right, especially without mentioning steering stabilizers!!! don't wont to through more money into it!!!

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firstly thank you for all the explanation!!!:thumbsup:

when you say the 08 with 11 chassis have different leverage ratios does that mean still that the numbers of free and rider sag will tell if a heavier spring is needed???

i believe it pushes in the corners with more sag because when i was running less she turned just by looking the other way (coming off the xr400)...i will try more sag and compensate with the forks as you both suggest, and even a heavier spring for more free sag if have too...!!!!

am happy that you say she can be tuned right, especially without mentioning steering stabilizers!!! don't wont to through more money into it!!!

The shock is positioned differently in the 2008 chassis and the 2011 chassis. Given the same rider weight, the 2008 design will require a stiffer shock spring.

You can use the free sag and race sag numbers to determine the correct spring rate regardless of which chassis you have. Shoot for about 40mm free sag with 120mm race sag. This should result in about 4-6mm of spring preload.

For example, if you set race sag to 120 and find the free sag is only 25mm, this indicated the spring is too soft. The spring needed a lot of preload to hold the bike at 120mm. Without a rider aboard, the high preload force holds the rear shock very tall. This makes for a poor handling KTM.

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I played around with the sag today, i got 37mm static with around 6mm preload and 118mm rider sag.....shall i get the heavies spring so i get more static with a bit less preload, and maybe 115 rider sag???

i had a ride around the neighborhood loop, nothing abnormal, maybe not sharp enough, i will check it again in the weekend on a longer ride!!

Henning what rider sag are you using?? 115-120...what works for you on the TE...

The frame is an 09 300 sixdays identical P/N 5480340120030 "CC08" to my TE300...all other differ in P/n whether that makes a difference or go with ride and feel, 120mm as you adamsmoto, or the 34% rider sag method

:thumbsup:

Edited by wblake
chassis P/n incluted

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