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ttr spark aresster


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makes it louder, stupid and lose power. the only way it will benefit you is if yoiu have your bike all modded. then you take it out cause there will then be less backpressure with the baffle out.

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...you wont loose power. like previously said, you'd make it illegal to ride in some places.

i bought my wifes 230 with the jets done and the airbox opened....for some reason the guy left the spark arrestor in - i took it out. a 4t doesnt need back-pressure(at most,very little). what you put in, you need to take out...so if you gonna open the airbox, you need to gut the exhaust. and if you do that, you need to change jets cause its gonna be running too lean. the mod is easy, low cost and SO worth it

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Correct. You're not going to lose power with a freer flowing exhaust.

It just becomes a question of whether the tiny bitter of power you gain is worth the added noise and being obnoxiously loud.

We are our own worst enemy with losing riding areas with louder pipes than necessary.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Maybe you should try out one of these tips; they have a spark arrestor. I see them on e-bay all the time and am kinda curious if they would work. Opened up air box, opened up exhuast, proper jetting...should work. Only concern would be the noise.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3D-POWER-TIP-CNC-EXHAUST-YAMAHA-TT-R125-TTR-125-TTR-50-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem27bb69c4a3QQitemZ170647995555QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Actually thinking about trying it. Modding the ttr... baller on a budget!?

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I am on my second TTR125. The first one was a small wheel my first offroad bike. It didn't have the back plate in the muffler. It was fairly loud. The idle jet had to be enriched so that it would idle smooth. Later I had a back plate made for it with a 1" tube in it. It didn't loose any power and was a lot quieter.

Last week I traded for a ttr125 big wheel. It was stock. Didn't have nearly the power of my first one. It needed the choke on for 5-10 minutes before it would idle. Again we turned out the idle mixture and the low end power improved dramatically. Still on top it was not as strong.

We took out the back plate of the muffler and cut of the screen out of it. The bike revs faster and is still quiet. The stock exhaust tube is only about 3/4ths of an inch. Not much noise can get out.

We ride on our private land and don't have any rules about exhaust.

Personal experience tells me that the stock spark arrestor does cut back the power.

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The biggest difference you can make on the bike is jetting it right. It's lean from the factory and that's a big part of why it seems so sluggish. Not that freeing up the exhaust wouldn't hurt with rejetting, but rejetting alone isn't making any obnoxious noise that's used to close down riding areas.

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I won't ague with that the jetting is very important.

The screen acts as a block during the pulses of exhaust. Standing behind the bike, 3' back at idle and you can feel the pulses of exhaust once the screen has been taken out. With the screen in you don't feel this pulsing. Probably doesn't hurt low end as much as high end.

The way I understand interference drag is that at a certain velocity of air a screen acts as a wall. Eventually it will bleed off pressure but as an instantaneous pressure wave there is a significant back pressure. Does this reduce power? My engine revs faster with the screen out.

Louder. It is hardly louder but it needs to be shifted quicker as the beats per minute increases faster. My husband has a 150 air cooled honda and has a large exit on the exhaust. It sits a bit too high for my comfort but it has a lot more low end power. And is louder. When he first got it, I could pull him in any gear.

The biggest difference you can make on the bike is jetting it right. It's lean from the factory and that's a big part of why it seems so sluggish. Not that freeing up the exhaust wouldn't hurt with rejetting, but rejetting alone isn't making any obnoxious noise that's used to close down riding areas.
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