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Good idea to replace valves before they are worn?

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I recently purchased a 2006 crf450r with almost 10 hours on the bike. Since buying it (for, get this, $1800) Ive read up on the common problems associated with the stock titanium valves wearing down quickly.

Would it be a good idea to replace the stock ones with Stainless Steel valves now before they wear down?

How many hours do you get out of them usually (stock)?

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I also have an 06 and its an awesome bike. I have had mine for 2 years & never had valve issues. I attribute that to cleaning air filter every ride. You can check valve lash for your own curiosity. My advise is dont fix what aint broke...

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If it ain't broke don't fix it. Change the oil and clean the air filter regularly. I would check the valve clearances when you get a chance. It takes about an hour or so the first time. The first sign is usually the bike getting harder to start when cold. I had an 03 that had about 75 hours on it at least with no valve issues.. Unless you have about $600-$800 you just wanna waste..

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75hrs? That's pretty good. The bike starts fine even when cold (although I've had to learn how she likes to be turned on :thumbsup: ). Compression is strong which I've heard is a good indicator that the valves are properly adjusted. Its become a daily driver for me to school (added a bans kit) so I've added an additional 10 hrs since purchase.

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If its only has 10 hours , i would not do anything to it , if it fires up good ok. Wait till it dose not want to start , and then check you valves ,and then if their tight shim them. And them if they tighten up again you can put new valves in. Yep i would use stainless steel to replace then.

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the 06 and up have the newer valve seat material in the head, issues were more common with 02-05. As others already said, your likely a long way from having to replace those valves. Shiming may be in order at some point. CHecking intake clearance is very easy.. adjusting is another matter. Getting the valve to zero clearance makes shimming a longer process as you can't quickly calculate the size shim you need, you need to "guess" at the 1st one to be able to make any kind of measurement.. So wway down the road, pull the valve cover off and stick the minimum spec feeler gauge in there with the cam lobe pointing back.. if you can get the gauge in there, your good to go some more.

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Awesome! For now I won't worry so much then... just keep her breathing fresh air. Thanks for the suggestions.

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75hrs? That's pretty good. The bike starts fine even when cold (although I've had to learn how she likes to be turned on :thumbsup: ). Compression is strong which I've heard is a good indicator that the valves are properly adjusted. Its become a daily driver for me to school (added a bans kit) so I've added an additional 10 hrs since purchase.

Thats a great way to wear out a Race Engine! Why not buy a XR/XL as a commuter to school and leave the CRF for performance riding? Makes no sense to me to put 5 hours a week putting around on a RACE bike!

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Thats a great way to wear out a Race Engine! Why not buy a XR/XL as a commuter to school and leave the CRF for performance riding? Makes no sense to me to put 5 hours a week putting around on a RACE bike!

why is that a problem?? Are you pitching into the fund to buy him a 2nd bike ? :thumbsup: I would agree it isn't the "ideal" dual sport/road bike, but if it is what he has, and it's already tagged, have at it.. He is likely running way easier than if he were racing supermoto with it.

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In my opinion, he will likely spend way more money in the long run then he would by riding this bike (Tires, Oil, Wear etc.) then he would by buying a $500 commuter bike.

Joe

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why is that a problem?? Are you pitching into the fund to buy him a 2nd bike ? :thumbsup: I would agree it isn't the "ideal" dual sport/road bike, but if it is what he has, and it's already tagged, have at it.. He is likely running way easier than if he were racing supermoto with it.

Trust me I thought long and hard about converting. The main reason I did it was because I want the race POWER of the 450r, but be able to ride to trails from my home, or travel on the road between trails if need be. The second big reason was becsuse i got this crf on a sweet deal/trade and couldn't justify buying another at full price just for the road. i made due with what I had.. so to me, even if its a race bike, ill get plenty of value out of it for

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Thats a great way to wear out a Race Engine! Why not buy a XR/XL as a commuter to school and leave the CRF for performance riding? Makes no sense to me to put 5 hours a week putting around on a RACE bike!

It's not 5hrs a week.. I've out 10hrs on it total since buying it Aug 2010.... :thumbsup:

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Have fun. I buzzed around my neighborhood a few times when i had an 04 crf450 supermoto. Fun as hell. One thing you may consider is run a full quart of oil in the trans side, as the bike isn't bouncing around when on the street sloshing oil around the trans as much as in the dirt. Not sure if it is 100% needed, but don't think it hurt. I did it when doing supermoto, and know a few others with crf's that did the same. In fairness, that was 4 years ago or so..

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IMAG0614.jpg

IMAG0617.jpg

IMAG0616.jpg

IMAG0615.jpg

@MELK-MAN what oils did you run? Ive only run Honda 4 stroke engine oil and their trans oil.. can you recommend something cheaper but still high quality?

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IMAG0614.jpg

IMAG0617.jpg

IMAG0616.jpg

IMAG0615.jpg

@MELK-MAN what oils did you run? Ive only run Honda 4 stroke engine oil and their trans oil.. can you recommend something cheaper but still high quality?

SWEET road legal 450.. jealous. :thumbsup:

Type in the search "rotella" and there are hundreds of threads, many many riders use that oil in everything from expensive race machines, to the generator, pit bike, the deisel truck (it is a deisel engine oil..), to the lawn mower. I personally use the blue jug Rotella 5-40wt (synthetic but upon study it is a blend) over the white jug Rotella oil. Either im sure is fine, but i use the blue jug. Can get at wall mart (not sams), and most auto part stores.

Again, many threads. Even recent ones. But what seems to be the concensus, and i would have to agree, is that ANY decent oil will do the job. Most of us change it too often, and few if any catostrophic failures can be directly related to the oil.. Just be sure your not using a "energy conserving" oil on the trans side as clutch could slip.

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SWEET road legal 450.. jealous. :thumbsup:

Type in the search "rotella" and there are hundreds of threads, many many riders use that oil in everything from expensive race machines, to the generator, pit bike, the deisel truck (it is a deisel engine oil..), to the lawn mower. I personally use the blue jug Rotella 5-40wt (synthetic but upon study it is a blend) over the white jug Rotella oil. Either im sure is fine, but i use the blue jug. Can get at wall mart (not sams), and most auto part stores.

Again, many threads. Even recent ones. But what seems to be the concensus, and i would have to agree, is that ANY decent oil will do the job. Most of us change it too often, and few if any catostrophic failures can be directly related to the oil.. Just be sure your not using a "energy conserving" oil on the trans side as clutch could slip.

So you don't run rotella on both the clutch and engine, do you?

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So you don't run rotella on both the clutch and engine, do you?

yes.. in fact.. Lets rachet that up to a HECK yes. Both sides, blue jug.

IF you do a search (mentioned that before i think), you will find MANY riders use nothing but Rotella.

I prefer Silkolene Pro4 in both my 2008R6 machines that see 16,500 rpm but when im out of that (get help from Silkolene from MotoLiberty in Dallas TX) i don't hesitate to run the Rotella in them either. I have a 2006 2mm overbore/ported head/lots of $$ motor in one of these, about $5000 just in motor WORK, not including parts. It is the 3rd season on the same crank, it is in perfect shape after about 3 rebuilds (new plane bearings, JE pistons, valves, cnc the seats at KWS motorsports, etc.).

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yes.. in fact.. Lets rachet that up to a HECK yes. Both sides, blue jug.

IF you do a search (mentioned that before i think), you will find MANY riders use nothing but Rotella.

I prefer Silkolene Pro4 in both my 2008R6 machines that see 16,500 rpm but when im out of that (get help from Silkolene from MotoLiberty in Dallas TX) i don't hesitate to run the Rotella in them either. I have a 2006 2mm overbore/ported head/lots of $$ motor in one of these, about $5000 just in motor WORK, not including parts. It is the 3rd season on the same crank, it is in perfect shape after about 3 rebuilds (new plane bearings, JE pistons, valves, cnc the seats at KWS motorsports, etc.).

I did do some research .. LOTS of posts about rot. Ill probably give it a try (that damn honda trans oil is $$$$$$! I agree with your statement on people changing oils too frequently. I have a 98 ktm 380 that ive owned since I was a kid, and the fluids were changed every 8-10 hours. Ran that bike into the ground doing amateur races as a kid ... still runs like she did 12 years ago honestly.

While I do think ill change the oil more frequently in this bike (more heat and wear), Ill have to give rotella a shot. Thanks again for the help :thumbsup:

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I did do some research .. LOTS of posts about rot. Ill probably give it a try (that damn honda trans oil is $$$$$$! I agree with your statement on people changing oils too frequently. I have a 98 ktm 380 that ive owned since I was a kid, and the fluids were changed every 8-10 hours. Ran that bike into the ground doing amateur races as a kid ... still runs like she did 12 years ago honestly.

While I do think ill change the oil more frequently in this bike (more heat and wear), Ill have to give rotella a shot. Thanks again for the help :thumbsup:

The oil change interval is because of the lack of oil to start with. An XR carries almost 3 times more oil. With the small amount of oil there just isnt much to do the job for an extended period. The oil's additive package is what becomes compromised. Thats why you change it.

If youre buzzing the thing up and down the road as a commuter Id pay special attention to the transmission oil. Running the level high isnt a bad idea, but running a full quart is probably too much. There's an oil flow in the trans thats not all that great at the OEM recommended level. But doubling the level can cause churning and may lead to more heat than necessary. Ive never had a problem running 700cc's of oil in the trans.

Watch that front tire on pavement. Once it cups out (which will happen in almost nothing flat) it'll get pretty sketchy.

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