Enclosed Trailer Service/Care

OK, for those of you with enclosed trailers, roof seams especially if you dont have a one piece roof requires maintenance at the joints. Also if your nose cap is the thinner plastic one, caution, its breaks down in sunlight and degrades. Mine developed 2 large cracks. I sealed them up with black RTV for the time being. Contacted the mfg, I was barely out of warranty, but know the problem existed inside of warranty. But they did send me a brand new HD thick fiberglass nose cap, all the butyl tape, self leveling sealer compound (Manus-Bond 76-AM is gray) all new fasteners and aluminum trim and I did install it last weekend. But noticed all the sealer was degrading on the roof seams (joints between panels, not where it mounted to the trailer) so I had ordered a bunch more of the sealer and cleaned off all the old stuff and re did all my roof seams. Didnt feather the edges like the mfg did, this allowed it to lift over time sooner. I went on thicker and left the edges thicker also. Just a head up. Being as you cant see the roof, it tends to go un-noticed. Grab a ladder and inspect it.

And don't neglect your bearings :confused:

Good post TMT :thumbsup:

And don't neglect your bearings :worthy:

Good post TMT :thumbsup:

Thats a given. My first job, pull them off, fill the cavity between the bearings almost full. :confused: And install with some bearing preload. I see so many not giving the roller bearigns any preload.

Thats a given. My first job, pull them off, fill the cavity between the bearings almost full. :thumbsup: And install with some bearing preload. I see so many not giving the roller bearigns any preload.

Would like to hear how you do your trailer bearing preload.

Always done mine full tight, spin wheel, the back off enough so there is only the slightest hint of in-out wheel play.

BB

Eternabond tape and never have to reseal again. The 3M marine sealers cost 3x as much as the Dicor stuff but is way better. All this stuff is on my Weekend Warrior trailer.

Eternabond tape and never have to reseal again. The 3M marine sealers cost 3x as much as the Dicor stuff but is way better. All this stuff is on my Weekend Warrior trailer.

I will look into this stuff. :thumbsup:

http://www.eternabond.com/

Would like to hear how you do your trailer bearing preload.

Always done mine full tight, spin wheel, the back off enough so there is only the slightest hint of in-out wheel play.

BB

You dont have any preload if there is "any" in out. Run the nut in till the free play just goes away, then a little snugger than that. Maybe 1/8 turn on the spindle nut. The size of the bearing will determine how snug you can go. Trailer sized bearings, go about 1/8 past the point where play just goes away.

You dont have any preload if there is "any" in out. Run the nut in till the free play just goes away, then a little snugger than that. Maybe 1/8 turn on the spindle nut. The size of the bearing will determine how snug you can go. Trailer sized bearings, go about 1/8 past the point where play just goes away.

That's what I do also....just tight enough there is a slight amount of drag on the wheel's free spinning rotation.

If you spin the wheel as you tighten the nut, you will understand what I'm talking about. Also, spinning the wheel is a good practice, as this allows the bearings to seat fully.

Another thing to check.....if you have a ramp door, inspect the fasteners that secure the springs, hardware, cables, etc to the door and overhead frame. Check the cables for fraying and broken strands. Inspect the springs for cracks also.

Saw a cable come loose last weekend and just about take a guy's head off. Turns out the screws that held it to the door pulled out of the metal framework.

Thats a given. My first job, pull them off, fill the cavity between the bearings almost full. :thumbsup: And install with some bearing preload. I see so many not giving the roller bearigns any preload.

Good tips - thanks!

Any reason you guys don't use these? You can have pre-loaded bearing AND pre-loaded grease:

Bearing-Buddy_01.jpg

I think they're pretty slick.

-Tyler

Good tips - thanks!

Any reason you guys don't use these? You can have pre-loaded bearing AND pre-loaded grease:

Bearing-Buddy_01.jpg

I think they're pretty slick.

-Tyler

Tyler, I have a brand new set of those for my Dexter axles, bought from TT store and I'll be damned if I can find any that fits. I measured my ID of my hub, ordered the correct size, it wont quite go in! But yes, those are perfect. A couple of pumps at the beginning of the season....

Back when Honda had tapered bearings on the rear wheels of their cars the perload spec was: Tighten the nut to 18 foot pounds while rotating the wheel, back it off, then tighten to 3 foot pounds, drop in the cotter pin. Or in other words tighten, loosen and finger tighten.

Good tips - thanks!

Any reason you guys don't use these? You can have pre-loaded bearing AND pre-loaded grease:

Bearing-Buddy_01.jpg

I think they're pretty slick.

-Tyler

I have them on my trailer, but they don't take the place of regular cleaning and inspection.

One drawback of them is that once that hub cavity is filled with grease, there's only one place for it to go....past the seals, and onto your brake linings.

Good tips - thanks!

Any reason you guys don't use these? You can have pre-loaded bearing AND pre-loaded grease:

Bearing-Buddy_01.jpg

I think they're pretty slick.

-Tyler

I don't know anything about Bearing Buddy, but My new flatbed equipment trailer has something similar built in. Quality Axle calls it Accu-Lube, just pop the rubber cap off, pump grease into the zerk, old grease will be forced out around the outer edges, keep pumping until you see new grease start coming back out (works even better if you jack it up and spin the wheel while greasing) and put the cap back on. Repacking the bearings without pulling the hub saves a ton of time.

I'm not sure I'd blindly trust the system and never pull the hubs to inspect, but a good system like this certainly lessens the frequency of complete dis-assembly.

I have them on my trailer, but they don't take the place of regular cleaning and inspection.

One drawback of them is that once that hub cavity is filled with grease, there's only one place for it to go....past the seals, and onto your brake linings.

They don't have a vent for the grease to let the grease force its way back out the cap? Hmm maybe thats not like the Accu-lube at all then. There's no way for the system I have to blow the seals... the fresh grease you pump into the center forces the old grease back out the cap... you're supposed to keep pumping til you get all the old stuff out. It also lets you inspect the old grease to see if its got any moisture or metal shavings in it.

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