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450exc 06 front suspension

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hi,

this is about the front forks for this^^ KTM,

been reading a little on it through the net and seems KTM front suspension is not that great even till 2010 models,

i'm not a mechanic though can figure out some of the basics,

the bike itself handles pretty much awfully, at around 80Kph hitting a rock or a sharp ditch, bump you'r hands pretty heavily which makes riding at these speeds on the edge of dangerous makes you a bit neurotic, and takes the pleasure out of it,

the bike handles rocks at climbs and downhills pretty bad, not that bad, but definitely not good enough to allow you to push it far, riding isn't smooth and the front wheel sometimes bumps from side to side over them or at bumps.

is there anyway to fix it?

it's not about the oil, they just been fixed,

thanks.

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that fork is the hardest to get to work nice , what do you weigh ? as you maybe needing different springs ? do you use the entire stroke ?

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hi,

i weight around 158Lb or 72-75 Kg, so the springs should be fine,

as for the stroke, it never uses it all, i haven't started to jump too high yet though that shouldn't be the problem from my understanding, it's the "routine" work of the fork that isn't good enough,

hitting sudden rocks actually at any speed gives an hefty bump to the handlebars/you'r hands,

it's more felt at high speeds when even hitting a sharp ditch, seems it can't handle it right,

it's also on the casual work like at a bumpy terrain, it simply won't work like a fork is supposed to work dumping the track for the driver, at least, it doesn't do it well enough,

it sometimes throws the wheel from one side to the other, what makes you feel, you lose control of the bike, you simply can't communicate with it as it behaves not normally,

i've took a DRZ400 from a friend rider once and the difference is overwhelming,

you simply don't feel the terrain, the forks handle it and deliver a smooth ride for the rider.

i would take even less than that with the KTM, but when you start pushing it, it really kick you back from that aspect, affect a lot the driving quality and probably is what makes you soon tired.

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you are one rate too stiff on fork spring so that's not going to help

also you could go to the lowest oil level (150mm) and open up the compression clickers fully and it will be much better , on the set I did even for a 85 kg rider I softened the base valve

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you are one rate too stiff on fork spring so that's not going to help

can you clarify?

as far as i know, the manual says ~72Kg is fine for the stock springs.

open up the compression clickers fully and it will be much better

you mean on the top of the forks? these black hand-screwing screws?

is it safe opening them all the way?

apart from that is there anything to do internally if these won't help?

thanks.

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the manual is never a great guide, they are often slightly out, yours are 0.44 , you need 0.42

the compression clickers on yours are at the bottom, the slotted screw , adjust it counter clockwise till it stops clicking, dont force it any further.

If thats not enough then you can drain some oil out of them and reset the level to 150mm with the fork springs out, damper rod in the fork and 150mm from the top of the tubes with the outer tube resting at the bottom of the inner leg.

If thats not enough a revalve is needed.

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i'll give it a try, at least the compression clickers which are easy to do,

if that won't help i might give a shot to the 150mm from the top,

still, i'd like them to be capable, i sometimes ride very fast in the open trails and any sudden bump or rock should be eased out by them, i would not like them to be too soft to handle anything serious, i sometimes ride like mad and like to push the bike pretty far, i wouldn't like the suspension to hold it back, which is what currently happens.

about revalving, what is needed to be done?

does it require replacing some parts in the forks to after market parts?

or does it mean just placing different shims and spacers?

i'm not that conscious of these things,

thank you.

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revalving is to replace remove or restack the shims

i think it's just been done,

is there a standard or a proved way to fix this? or just trial and error?

cause this guy doing this is either going to pull he's hair out or rather it'll get quite expensive :thumbsup:..

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there is not a single fix ,suspension is such a subjective thing you can't have a answer for everyone , if you have paid to have them done they should redo them for free

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yeah, you'r right and the guy would redo it, though i wouldn't like to extort him for this cause he might have to redo them more than once..

thanks anyhow thumb-up.png.

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you should only pay once till you are happy, they are not hard to improve, just hard to get really good, in fact most people just buy a set of wp cc forks off a modern sx model and modify them if they really want much better suspension, but thats a extreme answer.

The most important thing is you are using full travel,as otherwise you are not getting the benefit of the suspension travel, you are not and they are harsh so it wont be hard to get them better.

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The most important thing is you are using full travel,as otherwise you are not getting the benefit of the suspension travel,

can you be little bit more clear with this sentence :confused:?

full travel? suspension travel? :thumbsup:

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so you basically talk about re-valving them?

loosing a shim should make them softer right?

i think they should operate well enough on big jumps which i don't do currently and at the same time be able to dump any trail at high speed, i don't think it's too much to ask and with the proper maintenance i'm sure it's possible, and after going over it with the mechanic i won't mind opening them even 5 times in a row to reach a decent work,

i just need to know what are the possibilities..

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each person has different needs, its actually not easy to get suspension to remove all the little imperfections of a woods course and then soak up a decent sized jump, and that fork is about the most primitive on a modern bike, so you are starting at a bad place compared to other bikes.

Yes removing one shim makes it softer, up to a point where it falls through the stroke too easily and then sits on a airpspring(the air gap) and that will make it harsh again, yours is not like that as you are not using all the travel and you should be.

The wp fork is well known by suspension tuners as it has many shortcomings. But for what you want it can work well.

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i guess it's not going to be easy,

i doubt it's going to get the way i want it this way,

that guy who did them already more or less said he's last word..

thanks though.

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