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Synthetic or Not

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Hey guys i wanna get my question straight....... i have heard numerous things of how synthetic is not great for the japanese bikes cause they make the clutch slip is this true? Since i bought my Rmz450 ive been running non synthetic but could i run synthetic like what amsoil has..................also what oil are you guys running, i need something cheap especially since my brother now is getting a 250 and will also be doing regular oil changes....

Thanks very much guys, I appreciate it:worthy::thumbsup:

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As long as it is formulated for MX 4t race bikes and/or it is a 'motorcycle' oil and not some oil from a discount chain store made for cars you are good to go.

I read all the time people running auto oils in bikes with 'wet-clutch' not a good idea since it has additives that can cause it to slip and shorten the life span.

Amsoil is an excellent set of lubricants, I think the bike shops are having some difficult times right now in general and they are not stocking lots of items.

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i believe if it is an energy conserving oil it can make the clutch slip...

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I run AMSOIL full synthetic 10w-40, and love the stuff. No clutch slipping issues. I believe it is the best oil out there. Just my oppinion, not starting an oil thing.

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Im running Maxima, Maxum4. Its the semi-synthetic. I've been been using if for several years, and has been great

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I run AMSOIL full synthetic 10w-40, and love the stuff. No clutch slipping issues. I believe it is the best oil out there. Just my oppinion, not starting an oil thing.

Thats awesome cause i know a guy that can get me a case for a pretty good price.....so im gonna try that out..Thanks:thumbsup::thumbsup:

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i believe if it is an energy conserving oil it can make the clutch slip...

If I am not mistaken 99.99% of ALL auto-oils fall in this category, I would think they would be a mistake running it in HIGH-RPM 4t bikes, since most auto's have rev-limiters and cannot hurt themselves and turn less than 3,000 in normal driving. I know 4t have rev-limiters but it is around 14,000 for 250F's and about 12,000 or so for 450F's big difference.

I would only run synthetic in these motors, designed for wet-clutch, like Amsoil, Maxima, Bel-Ray ect... ect...

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I switched to rotella t non-synthetic when I talked to a local pro who has run it in all his bikes, including his national bikes. And does his own work and pays for his own parts, albeit at a discount. I read 1000 endorsements on here, but it really hit home when the guy who won 450a was using rotella and I was running expensive synthetic in Vetb.

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If I am not mistaken 99.99% of ALL auto-oils fall in this category, I would think they would be a mistake running it in HIGH-RPM 4t bikes, since most auto's have rev-limiters and cannot hurt themselves and turn less than 3,000 in normal driving. I know 4t have rev-limiters but it is around 14,000 for 250F's and about 12,000 or so for 450F's big difference.

I would only run synthetic in these motors, designed for wet-clutch, like Amsoil, Maxima, Bel-Ray ect... ect...

i read a while back somewhere that if it is energy conserving it will have the round symbol on the bottle stating it is energy conserving...i have run rotella synthetic in my kawis,yamahas and zooks with no clutch slippage....

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I run AMSOIL full synthetic 10w-40, and love the stuff. No clutch slipping issues. I believe it is the best oil out there. Just my oppinion, not starting an oil thing.

What are basing your facts on? Not saying it is bad, but I use a group V ester oil based on many many hours of reading and fact finding.

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+1 on Shell Rotela T. One of the few oils left with zinc. Darn good stuff.

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What are basing your facts on? Not saying it is bad, but I use a group V ester oil based on many many hours of reading and fact finding.

I am no expert by any stretch, but the studies done for amsoil are independent and clearly show amsoil as a better all around oil for high performance M.C. I know a lot of people will argue these facts, but I believe they are 100%. Amsoil has been around along time and they have done a lot of testing over the years. You can contact them and they will send you all the info you need to make your own determination. Before using amsoil, I used Maxima full synthetic (Group V ) oil and I believe they are also very good, but no better and a lot more expensive. There may be no difference in any good quality oil as long as you change it often, but I am not willing to take a chance.

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Silkolene Pro 4 and Motul V300 are double esters. Better insurance than that is not on the market.

But changing semi-synthetic oil every day is even better than changing full synthetic every week.

A friend of mine splitted cases of 2 exact the same bikes 250FS. The one on the dyno oil with the short oil intervals had no visible or measurable wear, while the full synthetic was up for a complete rebuild. Same rider, just a practice bike and a competition bike.

My gut feeling though says in hot temperatures to use double ester full synthetic.

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