Need help here guys!

Hi there fellow mudslingers,

Been searching the threads and the faqs and cant quite find what im looking for, Im new to the forum and would like some advice.:worthy:

Got a 2006 YZ 250F which iv had from new riding both mx trax and timecard/enduro events. The bike is in stock form other than small mods mainly to the carb...air splitter,acelerator pump,deep sump, DEP header and silencer(enduro), oil tank conversion/removal (due to constantly burning clutches out in long timecard events) and changes to rear sprocket 49t.

Basically the bikes been ignored for past 2yrs due to having kids but am just starting a full refurb to get out riding again! I want to make changes to fully enduro it out and road register it for greenlaning, i used to have a problem when riding enduro that in really tight slowmoving sections i was constantly having to feather the clutch in 2nd so as not to stall the bike and 1st was too punchy.... sooooo iv been thinking of buying a steahly weighted flywheel, a wr stator plate and pickup for lighting kit, possibly even changing 1st/4th/5th gears and shafts, changing front and rear sprockets and softening out the suspension.:thumbsup:

What id like advice with is the specs i.e what weight flywheel,what size sprockets should i go for, would a 2006 wr250f stator plate and pickups fit the yz, if not is there a stator plate that would run lighting for the yz and lastly would changing the gears make a good improvement to the bike? oh and i nearly forgot...would it be advantageous to keep the 19" rear or change it for 18"?

I know you probably get questions like this all the time and probably get fed up giving the same old answers but i would greatly appreciate any advice given.:confused:

cheers ,

bullet37.

I've got experience with some of these so I'll start out. Easy mod is just add a WR tranny at your next tear down. Gearing is great with stock WR 13X52 and WR tranny. YZ tranny, compromise is tall first gear and short gearing in 4th-5th, no top end speed, geared with 13X49/50. You will need a skid plate like Works Connection or some other. Tall soft seat foam like Guts Racing or others. I like Cycra bark busters. I had bad luck with a lighting coil system on the YZ. GYTR flywheel is a great option for muddy situations and works great.

Now, having said that, my final solution was to buy an 04 WR250F. Mods: stiffer fork springs with revalve actually made the front softer and ride taller.... works as well as my KTM 300EXC. E-start is great. Free mods work with a muffler change, add a JD jet kit.... Guts Racing tall soft seat foam.

The YZ is designed as a track bike, not an enduro bike, and works better on the track. You can, with enough money, make it work. But the WR is closer to the task, purpose built. I've spent a lot more on the YZ to WRize it than I did on the WR. My $.02 with 3 years of experimentation.

you are better off selling it and buying a wr. it would be cheaper and easier. in australia it cost my mate $2000 to make his yz road legal.

Cheers for the input guys,

I was gonna sell the yz and buy a new ktm250exc but didnt want to turn to the darkside and go orange haha....:thumbsup:

So seeing as though im saving cash not buying a new bike id rather put some of it into the bike iv already got, the thing is iv had this bike from new iv always done my own stripdowns and maintenance and its never let me down, i just figure BETTER THE DEVIL YOU KNOW

I love the hit and the power this bike has i just want to tame it slightly for the tight technical sections and be able to ride it on the road where required:thumbsup:

1. Its already got barkbusters and a skidplate on but im definatly gonna change the gearbox out and put standard WR sprockets on, think im gonna hold off on the flywheel for now and see how she rides to start with but for future ref. what weight flywheel should i go for?

2. Iv already got the lighting kit to go on so would a WR stator fit and if not could you recommend somewhere i could get a suitable stator to fit the YZ?l

3. Lastly whats your thoughts on changing the YZ rear wheel for a WR one?

Thanks again for any advice

1. Get the GYTR flywheel and keep the stock one for dryer conditions. Not sure what the weight is for the GYTR, but it doesn't add much weight. A steel ring is welded onto a stock flywheel to add the weight.

2. WR stator will not fit. YZ stator mounts on engine case, WR stator mounts on outside cover and the flywheel is opposite to match. WR flywheel is slightly heavier and is a nice compromise. The YZ with the WR tranny has some advantages in dryer terrain. It has a quick hard hit. The jump to 3rd gear will really leap forward so be ready for it. It will wheelie in 4th easily with a tug on the bars since it is lighter than the WR.

3. 18" vs 19" rear. More choices and more traction with 18". 19" has fewer choices and feels taller than the 1" difference. The handling is much different. When you lean the 18" over it will hang on and crawl to the outside. The 19" will cut loose when you lean it over and is less forgiving on lean angle... my experience. It lends to a different style of riding, cut and dice. You make your turns as short quick turns and you don't lean over nearly as much, forces you to stay more upright during the turn. Its not un-manageable, just different and sometimes efficient on a fast trail.

Cheers for your advice ronbuell,

i know where im going with this project now, the only question i have left is centred around the stator plate.

As iv already got the lighting kit im intent on using it and as previously mentioned the WRF one isnt an option. Is there a stator on the market capable of running a lighting rig on the YZF? Is getting the original one rewound an option? If so what level of output would i need to get it rewound to?

N.B it is purely stop/tail, HID headlamp, signal lamps and a horn i want to run not elec start..doesnt interst me bike kicks off 1st/2nd attempt hot or cold.

This bikes gonna be amazing when finshed a true warrior of the woods!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yes, yes, you will need at least 35 watts min, maybe more for HID. I don't have experience with those. You will also need a regulator.

With that said, I just did a search on ebay and found 2, so they are out there. I had terrible luck with a Moose unit, it lasted 2 miles and I had to get towed back to the trailhead.... not happy. Problem was they wound too many windings on it and the flange ground thru the wires and shorted it out. No customer service, so no refund. At least it did not blow out my CDI. That's another reason I say, get the WR for offroad, YZ for closed course.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now