can i just rotate my carb to install the jet kit?

the istructions with my JD jet kit say "no need to remove carb, just loosen 2 clamps and rotate carb. But if i rotate one way the TPS immediately hits the frame. Rotate other way the throtttle wheel assembly hits something immediately. Am i missing something??

It will turn, bowl to the left. Push the carb to the front as you turn it and the throttle stuff will just barely clear the frame.

thx thats what i see... the tiny corner of the throttle wheel just clips the frame.. i just need another quarter inch to clear it. i'll try what you say tomorrow

If you remove the throttle cable/AP linkage plastic cover you can rotate the carb further.

yes thanks. already removed cover.. it helps but still not quite there. I am going to try and dremel the very corner of that assembly just a little bit to help.. 1/8" maybe. Looks like i can do that without compromising its integrity at all. Might take hairdryer to rubber boot to make it bit more maleable... its kinda cold here still.. but hey it was the best snowboarding season so i aint complaining:thumbsup:

On my '08 HTR 350 XCF-W, I can easily remove the needle from the carb with no carb rotation. The main jet can be removed after a slight carb rotation with the aid of a small socket held with a small pair of vice grips.

well i did it. I plan on trying out a few needles i have so i wanted to get this down pat. My new cordless dremel sure came in handy today. First i dremeled the corner off near throttle wheel.. kinda beveled it a little too, then polished it with 1000 grit emery. Looks factory now and skips past frame easy. I threw in a new JD red needle at clip #5, 185 MJ, 60 leak jet, and installed an R&D remote fuel screw. I didnt like the gimpy little sticker that came on the brass knob so i removed that, polished the entire brass knob to a mirror shine on my bench buffer. Then using mister dremel cutoff wheel, i carved a teeny index notch at 12 and 6 oclock for reference. Lastly, the plastic frame guard that is right beside the fuel screw... the zip tie head was right in the way of fuel screw so i cut it off with the dremel and put a new one on with the head on other side. :thumbsup: dremel dremel DREMEL !! i like sayin it.

I'll try and post a pic later.

Edited by ballistic
sp

I'm going to look into your little trick and see if it will work on my 07 and 08 250 sxf's. I'm pretty fast at getting all the parts off (tank, seat, air box) and changing the jets, 40 minutes. But man that would be great to rotate the carb like I did on my 2 strokes. I would more inclinded to make more changes, to see what is best.

this pic shows how i polished the brass wheel. Then i srewed it in all the way to ZERO turns and made a index line on the brass and a corresponding index line on the wire loop. So just by looking at it i can see i have it set at 2 and 1/8th turns.

21j6kwg.jpg

Edited by ballistic
sp

this pic shows where i dremeled the top corner of the almighty FCR. Look at the top cable.. right above the nut you can see the corner is removed. See the lower cable/nut... thats exactly what it used to look like.

2rca0b5.jpg

Thanks for the pictures. I will check into it this weekend.:thumbsup:

...just another opinion .... for easy carb maintenance... just unbolt the lower subframe screws slack off the rear carb boot, remove the muffler and lift the subframe. It will pivot around the upper frame attatchment bolts revealing the carb. You can now just slack off the forward part of the boot, pop the carb off and rotate easliy ... The subframe manoevre is quick and simple and makes carb access really easy. The float bowl is accessible for jet changes and even the top of the carn is accessible for needle changes and adjustments. Unscrew the hot start, unpin the throttle cables and unscrew the vent hoses and bingo the carb is off for bench top maintenance...

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