Jump to content
Antigravity Batteries Product Giveaways - LAST NIGHT TO ENTER! Read more... ×
Sign in to follow this  

can i just rotate my carb to install the jet kit?

Recommended Posts

the istructions with my JD jet kit say "no need to remove carb, just loosen 2 clamps and rotate carb. But if i rotate one way the TPS immediately hits the frame. Rotate other way the throtttle wheel assembly hits something immediately. Am i missing something??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It will turn, bowl to the left. Push the carb to the front as you turn it and the throttle stuff will just barely clear the frame.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thx thats what i see... the tiny corner of the throttle wheel just clips the frame.. i just need another quarter inch to clear it. i'll try what you say tomorrow

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

yes thanks. already removed cover.. it helps but still not quite there. I am going to try and dremel the very corner of that assembly just a little bit to help.. 1/8" maybe. Looks like i can do that without compromising its integrity at all. Might take hairdryer to rubber boot to make it bit more maleable... its kinda cold here still.. but hey it was the best snowboarding season so i aint complaining:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On my '08 HTR 350 XCF-W, I can easily remove the needle from the carb with no carb rotation. The main jet can be removed after a slight carb rotation with the aid of a small socket held with a small pair of vice grips.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well i did it. I plan on trying out a few needles i have so i wanted to get this down pat. My new cordless dremel sure came in handy today. First i dremeled the corner off near throttle wheel.. kinda beveled it a little too, then polished it with 1000 grit emery. Looks factory now and skips past frame easy. I threw in a new JD red needle at clip #5, 185 MJ, 60 leak jet, and installed an R&D remote fuel screw. I didnt like the gimpy little sticker that came on the brass knob so i removed that, polished the entire brass knob to a mirror shine on my bench buffer. Then using mister dremel cutoff wheel, i carved a teeny index notch at 12 and 6 oclock for reference. Lastly, the plastic frame guard that is right beside the fuel screw... the zip tie head was right in the way of fuel screw so i cut it off with the dremel and put a new one on with the head on other side. :thumbsup: dremel dremel DREMEL !! i like sayin it.

I'll try and post a pic later.

Edited by ballistic
sp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm going to look into your little trick and see if it will work on my 07 and 08 250 sxf's. I'm pretty fast at getting all the parts off (tank, seat, air box) and changing the jets, 40 minutes. But man that would be great to rotate the carb like I did on my 2 strokes. I would more inclinded to make more changes, to see what is best.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this pic shows how i polished the brass wheel. Then i srewed it in all the way to ZERO turns and made a index line on the brass and a corresponding index line on the wire loop. So just by looking at it i can see i have it set at 2 and 1/8th turns.

21j6kwg.jpg

Edited by ballistic
sp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

this pic shows where i dremeled the top corner of the almighty FCR. Look at the top cable.. right above the nut you can see the corner is removed. See the lower cable/nut... thats exactly what it used to look like.

2rca0b5.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the pictures. I will check into it this weekend.:thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

...just another opinion .... for easy carb maintenance... just unbolt the lower subframe screws slack off the rear carb boot, remove the muffler and lift the subframe. It will pivot around the upper frame attatchment bolts revealing the carb. You can now just slack off the forward part of the boot, pop the carb off and rotate easliy ... The subframe manoevre is quick and simple and makes carb access really easy. The float bowl is accessible for jet changes and even the top of the carn is accessible for needle changes and adjustments. Unscrew the hot start, unpin the throttle cables and unscrew the vent hoses and bingo the carb is off for bench top maintenance...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • By Urbanpoacher
      Hello everyone, I am new to the page and to the world of ktm. I recently purchased a used 2008 ktm xcfw with a 300 big bore kit, not sure who made or installed the kit. I am looking to see if there is any way to buy a new carb that is set up for this bike with the 300 BB. Any help would be great. The fuel inlet is leaking and there are a ton of stripped screws so I’m thinking getting a new carb might be the best way to go but i don’t really have the skill or knowledge to tune and jet a stock one myself. Thank you!
    • By christophe19912
      i am currently checking valve clearance on 2013 sxf 250 with 70 hrs. bike was bought new and never been apart(as far as i know). when setting TDC the notch on the crank when it is aligned to the whole, has the cam gear marks intake totally up and exhaust totally down. are these the wrong marks to look at or am i missing something. bike does run just a little difficult to start.
    • By gyodock
      2016 KTM 350xc-f - Olins Fork Cartridge Inserts, FMF 4.1 RCT Muffler, Pro Circuit Linkage Arm, Torc1 Reaction Shift and Rear Brake Lever, P3 Carbon Pipe Guard, Acerbis Skid Guard, Mobie Linkage Guard, Acerbis Swing-arm Guards, RYD Crew Aluminum Handguards, Sicass Racing Tail Light Kit with Flush Mount LED Rear Turn Signals, Sicass Racing Handguards with Built-in LED Turn Signals, Rental Sprockets, Trail-Tech Stator Upgrade, ktmandhusky.com Fuel Rail and Anti-vibration Bar Ends, Guts Seat Cover, USB Charging Port, Misc Anodized Orange Aluminum Bling. My wife is getting jealous of the attention I am giving my bike!
    • By Dandeliongardens
      Hey all. I’m a newbie here so let me know if  I’m in the wrong place. 
      I’ll get straight down to it. I’m in the market for a new bike and have been thinking about what’s going to be best for me for a long time. Until recently I finally came to the conclusion that a new YZ250FX is my best option. My last bike was 2015 Yz250f which I loved.
      Now just yesterday I saw a local dealer advertise left over 17’ FX350’s for almost the same price as the YZ. What appeals to me about the Husky is that extra grunt. What doesn’t appeal to me is the suspension and handling and the reliability of the machine. Now I’ve never owned a KTM or Husky so I am basing those two factors on word of mouth only. Like I said, I loved my Yz250f and felt very at home on it, it has probably been the best bike I’ve owned to date. Yamaha reliability is also second to none which adds to my peace of mind on purchasing the YZ. One thing I wish it had was more power though. Obviously it’s only a 250f so you can’t expect it to go like a 450 (not really interested in 450s).
      I ride mostly trails and the occasional day at the mx track. The trails I ride are gravel based, loose, rocky, single trail, and also wide, fast, flowing, sand trails which is where I think my yz250f really shined, and where I had the most fun. I’m only a small rider at 145lbs which is why I’ve steered away from 450s. 
      I’ve read a few forums and others have said the ktm and Husky 350s are unbeatable on the trail which is why I am in this dilemma.
      So basically what I’m trying to decide on is if that extra power is worth compromising for the YZ suspension, handling and usability. Feel free to make any other suggestions, including other bikes as I was also considering the YZ250X 2T.
      Thanks guys
       
    • By element9
      The story begins with simple installation procedure of a BIG BORE kit that we ordered from USA . The manufacturer (CYLINDER WORKS) and the dealer send us the correct kit and so far so good ! .
      The bike is a KTM 250 sx-f ,2011 model and bellow there are some photos for you, just to see how careful I am throughout the process .
      .. .. .. .. I change the valve seals and the exhaust titanium valves and springs with the PROX steel kit and make a little polishing on the intake and exhaust
      ......
      Put the cylinder-piston on and always with guidance from workshop manual and correct clamps...
      ..
      AND READY
      ...
      Until now we where happy !!! We start the engine ,and everything seems to be ok!
      Began to make the first ride and…… DISASTER !!!
      The engine start bleeding OIL from the hose-tube !!!!!!!!! I thought its normal if it is one-two drops but unfortunately didn’t STOP .
      We did one more ride to see what happens and still BLEEDING. Back to the WORKSHOP.
      DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS OF WHAT TO CHECK OR DO ???
×