Just installed JD Jet kit. Blue smoke at start up. Mmmmm...

[olycrfrider]

Hello everyone,

I just purchased a brand new 2009 and after much research on the bike I decided to immediately install a JD Jet Kit. I ride mainly 0' to 1000'. After installation I noticed that after I start the engine and turn off the choke it starts to blow some blue smoke. It usually lasts about 2-5 minutes and the exhaust clears up once I start actually riding the bike. Is the bike running rich? Should I turn in the fuel screw? The specs below are exactly what JD recommended when I talked to them on the phone before I purchased the kit. The bike only has 1.2 hours on it and I haven't even ridden it on the trails yet. I know I should put some hours on the bike to actually break it in, but, I figured I would try and at least solve this blue smoke issue first.

Here is what I did per JD's instructions...

* red needle, 5th clip position

* 158 main jet (did not remove air screen)

* 42 pilot

* MSR fuel screw (1 3/4 turns out)

* opened airbox (removed snorkel, cut 4x4 hole)

Thanks for your help.

Edited May 9, 2011 by OLYDRZRIDER

[William1]

Blue smoke is oil.

Did you just service the airfilter? Did you over oil it?

You bike is already broken in, that process takes all of five minutes.

[mgentz]

remember the below about smoke and engines:

Blue - oil

Black - carbon/fuel

White - antifreeze

this will help you in the future.

[Curtville]

Sounds like the 58 jet is too big. I have a 55 jet and runs a little rich.

[roonster]

new bike, using the choke makes it puff. does it run better than stock?

how long do you let it run on the choke? 5-10 seconds. does it idle well if it does ride on, your bike is fine!!

[olycrfrider]

The air filter was oiled and by the dealer when I bought the bike. It is not over-oiled as I can see. The bike runs great much better than stock. Warms up fast and I usually only have to use the choke for less than 30 seconds and it will idle perfectly. I have a call into JD Jetting and am waiting for a call-back regarding this blue smoke issue. If they say to drop down to a 155 main jet I will give it a try.

[dmac1]

Blue smoke isn't jetting. You're burning oil. We get a little blue at startup if the light is right to see it and after a full day, the level will be about 1/2 way between full and low on the stick.

William said your motor is already broken in (if its not, it is getting there), but nontheless, I'd go out and do some hard acceleration and decelleration (no brakes). Actually they say the decel is more beneficial than accel. The idea is to create pressure behind the rings to get them to essentially mate with your cylinder. The crosshatching in the cylinder will only do this is the first few hours so it should be the first thing done. Pretty much the opposite of the 'easy' break in concept. Get it done while you still might have some benefit.

Some will say this isn't necessary....I say it can't hurt and should help.

Dave

[olycrfrider]

Thanks for the info Dave. I called and spoke with a couple of Honda dealers service techs today and they more or less told me the same thing. That it is common in a new engine to get some blow-by (oil in the combustion chamber) before the piston/rings/cylinder get a chance to mate together. They told me to relax and go out and get some hours on the bike and I should see some improvement in a few hours. One tech told me if it continues after 20+ hours on the bike I may want to bring it in to have it inspected. I will take your advise and do the hard accel/decel over the next few days. I will also keep a close eye on the oil level. Thanks for the tips everyone. Scott

[TRX460EX]

I thought I remembered always reading to do hard acceleration under a load (so not in loose sand or anything like that) and hold it wide open to create as much cylinder pressure as possible to force the rings against the cylinder walls, but I thought the trick was to pull the clutch and let it idle while coming to a stop then do it over again because vacuum in the cylinder doesnt push the rings out does it?

[dmac1]

I thought I remembered always reading to do hard acceleration under a load (so not in loose sand or anything like that) and hold it wide open to create as much cylinder pressure as possible to force the rings against the cylinder walls, but I thought the trick was to pull the clutch and let it idle while coming to a stop then do it over again because vacuum in the cylinder doesnt push the rings out does it?

Heres the article I read about it. I've been told it applies more to sportbikes but I still think it is good and the guy who helped me with my first rebuild said the same thing as this guy. Break in via hard accel/decel.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I think a track is kinda ideal for break-in because would be contantly on/off the throttle, but I don't ride tracks much so went to our local off-road area which has lots of hills and gassed it on the hills and let the motor slow me on the way down. You want the motor under load...not just revving....so I agree that not in loose soil or sand.

By the way...I'm not an expert on this but as mentioned previously, I don't think doing this will hurt and it could help.

Dave

[William1]

+2 on Mototune. Rings are fully seated in the first fifteen minutes of run time. Anyone that tells you different on a nikasil bore is lying.

If you are burning oil/blue smoke and the bike is under warranty, have them repair it or at least provide you with a written acknowledgement of you complaint so when they finally have to fix it they have no more excuses, you have proof of the problem while still under warranty.

[Jim Dettman]

+2 on Mototune. Rings are fully seated in the first fifteen minutes of run time. Anyone that tells you different on a nikasil bore is lying.

If you are burning oil/blue smoke and the bike is under warranty, have them repair it or at least provide you with a written acknowledgement of you complaint so when they finally have to fix it they have no more excuses, you have proof of the problem while still under warranty.

Well I don't know about that, but I follow the manual, which says:

"Help assure your CRF's future reliability and performance by paying extra attention to how you ride during the first operating day or 15 miles (25 km).

During this period, avoid full-throttle starts and rapid acceleration".

Jim.