removing bleed stack

to remove the bleed stack can i just put 1 or 2 11.25 shims behind the plate to give clearance or do i need some washers? basically i would just like to know how much clearance the plate needs so it dosent cover the bleed ports. thanks

turn the stack upside down

i got ya, what about if i wanted to take a few shims to move elsewhere how many 11.25's do i need to space it out? i have 5 there

just measure the gap with the shims in place, and use the same amount of washers.

You need at least one of those 11.25 shims to make sure there is enough bleed.

The more i test the more I like the bleed stack...

IMHO it makes the clicker less usable (no doubt) but makes the low speed transition into the bigger stacks much more linear.

So basically you run the clicker very far out...and use the stack to tune the transition - not the clicker...if you need to go in on the clicker - then you need to stiffen the bleed stack (or stiffer main stacks)

great info, does this apply to a 125 too?

the cr 125 has a bleed stack but not sure about the yz, rm i dont think has

My YZ 125 05 has one. But I also inverted it.

my 08 yz 125 has one too so i will try it without one and see what its like. is it a major difference in handling?

ot major but on a 125 its the bike that needs it least, for hard core mx its still not a bad idea(maybe softened) ,for woods and enduro i think its a bad idea.

my 08 yz 125 has one too so i will try it without one and see what its like. is it a major difference in handling?

hey!

I got the problem of headshake on downhills, hard soil, much small bumps.

partly also on brakingbumps.

I inverted the bleedstack und the bike was more stable at downhills and sensitive to bumps.

If i'm informed correctly the bleedstack also keeps the fork up in its stroke.

So I also reduced midvalve float to work against to much diving, because of the missing bleedstack.

Just my thoughts, I'm no professional.

Like I said - it allows a more linear transition into the major stacks but the problem is it's not externally adjustable...

So if you require a large range of adjustement from your clickers - then dont bother with it - but if you find the "right" bleed stack often the performance IMHO is better...

For stuff like woods and trail stuff I agree - as much free bleed as possible is desired...no need for bleed stack.

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