TE511 dying upon deceleration...

[duskrider460]

The bike stalls out (shuts off) when it's idling, upon deceleration as I'm coming to a berm, a stop sign or going downhill. Basically, any time I'm not on the gas, I've got to pull the clutch in and blip the throttle to keep the bike from stalling out / shutting off. And it doesn't bog, no burping, no tell-tell sign it's going to die, it just plain shuts off. (so quickly, as a matter of fact, it'll lock the back wheel up before I get a chance to quickly pull the clutch in! -dangerous!!!)

I've got the jumper connected, it's in Race Map II, I've decatted the muffler, I'm running 91 octane, the air filter is clean - the bike runs great (it's an absolute BEAST, actually) it just won't stay running! I've even adjusted the little idle screw on the EFI (which didn't do anything but make it idle a little higher while it did decide to idle) and it would still die as explained above. ***?! ?

[Russ Henry]

Sounds like a sensor malfunction. I would take it back to your dealer asap and have him check it.

[Some Dude]

disconnect the battery for 30+ seconds and then turn on the key, make sure the kill switch is in "run" mode and do a very slow sweep of the throttle until full throttle is reached, turn the key off and wait 30 seconds and then turn the key on and start the bike without applying any throttle. Go take it for a test ride and see if it's any better.

Also these bikes should be completely warmed up before any hard riding.

[Ride]

disconnect the battery for 30+ seconds and then turn on the key, make sure the kill switch is in "run" mode and do a very slow sweep of the throttle until full throttle is reached, turn the key off and wait 30 seconds and then turn the key on and start the bike without applying any throttle. Go take it for a test ride and see if it's any better.

Also these bikes should be completely warmed up before any hard riding.

Does this manually reset the TSP or ??? thanks for that. ?

[Some Dude]

With this keihin system there are adaptives which can be reset. Not sure if the TPS will just reset to a zero setting or if the throttle sweep will help reset it after disconnecting the battery, but it will reset. The two USA service consultants should have returned from Italy this weekend after getting trained on the new system and troubleshooting, I'll be talking to one of them soon to discuss the ins and outs in more depth.

[Ride]

With this keihin system there are adaptives which can be reset. Not sure if the TPS will just reset to a zero setting or if the throttle sweep will help reset it after disconnecting the battery, but it will reset. The two USA service consultants should have returned from Italy this weekend after getting trained on the new system and troubleshooting, I'll be talking to one of them soon to discuss the ins and outs in more depth.

Good info, thanks.

K

[Tony Williams]

So, what do we do differently on the keyless TXC, should this happen? Disconnect the battery for a Microsoft-esque reset?

[Some Dude]

So, what do we do differently on the keyless TXC, should this happen? Disconnect the battery for a Microsoft-esque reset?

Yes sir, also be aware that the bike has to time off for approximately 30 seconds after you kill the engine. The ignition/pump/ecu stay alive for 30 seconds after you hit the kill button and then time out. So if you are changing out the power up jumper, you must wait 30 seconds (as described in the manual) before the new mode will take place. This also goes for the TC449 models with map switch on them.

On the TE and I believe the TXC one could kill the engine, take off seat and plug in or unplug the jumper and then re-start and the new mode will not take effect until the bike has been off for more then 30 seconds. With the keyed models this means key off and the non-keyed models this means 30 seconds after kill switch is in effect.

[Some Dude]

Confirmed, adaptives in the ECU will reset with a disconnect of the battery for at least 30 seconds. It is important after cycling the battery connection that you do not apply any throttle during start up/starter operation as this could confuse the adaptives on innitial start up after the battery has been re-connected.

So to the OP, disconnect battery and re-connect after 30 seconds and then turn on the bike and hit the starter button without any application of throttle, let it warm up then take it for a test ride. Turn the bike on and off and ride at least three times before passing judgement. If this does not fix the issue then disconnect the battery and this time upon re-connection of the battery turn the key on and turn the throttle slowly to WOT without the bike running and the kill switch in the "run" position. Then test ride 3 times to determine if you've fixed the issue as it sounds very likely to be a TPS issue.

Sometimes we develop bad habits on other bikes that might be carb'd such as applying throttle during start up, this however confuses many fuel injection systems. With the Mikuni Husky systems the TPS is a hard set value determined by a diagnostic tool and not adaptive. The Keihin system will adapt but you must play by it's rules to get a good base setting.

?

[Ride]

Great info, thanks. ? I have noticed the last couple of rides mine does this too. Will see if this rectifies it. Not been a real problem but not 100% correct ether.

Edited May 9, 2011 by Ride

[36MotoMarc]

So to the OP, disconnect battery and re-connect after 30 seconds and then turn on the bike and hit the starter button without any application of throttle, let it warm up then take it for a test ride. Turn the bike on and off and ride at least three times before passing judgement. Sometimes we develop bad habits on other bikes that might be carb'd such as applying throttle during start up, this however confuses many fuel injection systems. With the Mikuni Husky systems the TPS is a hard set value determined by a diagnostic tool and not adaptive. The Keihin system will adapt but you must play by it's rules to get a good base setting.

?

This is great advice and a common feature on most modern Keihin EFI systems that utilize an IAC valve (idle-air control). In fact after an ECM reset, which is what you are doing by disconnecting the battery, it should be started NO THROTTLE like BMWA stated, and idled for at least 5 minutes with NO THROTTLE. The ECM "learns" how to idle the bike properly during this time. The Husky setup may not require this 5 mns but all the modern japanese keihin setups that don't utilize a throttle-stop type idle adjustment, operate in this manner.

[Ride]

Bobby, if this is setting the TPS should you back the mechanical throttle stop all the way out so that it sets the 0 TPS point when it is really closed. This always confused me even with iBeat. No mention of having to do this but it would seem it you have a mechanical idles stop set for idle and set your TSP at 0 at this point it really should be at some value over 0 because it is not as 0. Seems this would have to be done with the motor off like the iBeat tool does.Thoughts?

[Ride]

Bobby, if this is setting the TPS should you back the mechanical throttle stop all the way out so that it sets the 0 TPS point when it is really closed. This always confused me even with iBeat. No mention of having to do this but it would seem it you have a mechanical idles stop set for idle and set your TSP at 0 at this point it really should be at some value over 0 because it is not at 0 but slightly over 0 to idle. Seems this would have to be done with the motor off like the iBeat tool does.Thoughts?

[Some Dude]

No mechanical adjustment and in fact i'd recommend not to play with that until you have cycled the battery connection and had a couple of engine heat cycles after the reset.

[Ride]

Thanks Bobby. Tried the disconnect and it did seem to run better, for a bit, then the flame out would happen again. Tried the bat disconnect and throttle set (TSP) and that seems to completely cured it. I bet my just off idle and low RPM hill climbs caused it to learn some strange settings and also my TPS was off. Now it seems happy as a clam again. Great that you can do this on the trail in a minute and it resets the TPS and adaptive stuff. Anyway seems to work.

If you have a stumble or flame out, disconnect the bat for about a minute, hook it back up, turn the key on, slowly turn the throttle to full stop and back, turn the key off, turn i back on and start the bike without touching the throttle. Mine idled higher afterwards, ran perfect again and all is GREAT.

Thanks Bobby for the info.

[pugwalshthegreat]

just picked up new te511 8/7/11 stall stall and more stall, took back and had been over filled with oil and blocked air filter, after cleaning and test ride by tech guy fine,when i took home stalls again all the time, took back and suggested the new can and jump plug for full power(husky had advised not to fit till first servive at 300 miles) all problems solved and absoloute rocket ship, not all dealers aware of this problem but one to get them to do if you have similar probs, dont forget , , ride it like you stole it lol

[Spud1968]

Hello BMWAtlanta, I've the TXC 449 and i'm having the same problems as dustrider460. Could I clarify the procedure you describe: I start the bike from cold then press the engine kill switch and wait for 30 seconds, twist the throttle slowly to fully open, then close the throttle and disconnect the battery, reconnect the battery after 30 seconds without any throttle and leave it running for 5 minutes?

I’m not sure if this is linked to this stalling but I’m also finding my bike will not start with out a slight amount of throttle applied when its hot or cold.

Great bike, thanks

[Some Dude]

There is about to be a new Technical Service Bulletin to check both hose clamps on the rubber boots for the throttle body. Many have been discovered to be loose from the factory or loosening with relatively low use. Doesn't matter if it's TXC or TE, but if it's a 449 or 511 with some sputtering or stalling, check those clamps,..........along with everything else.

[Spud1968]

Having tried the battery disconnection waiting 30's process to know the bike is right, or atleast as good as it can be i've returned it to my local dealer for some diagnostics tests. I'm seeking not only a non-stall approaching corners, but also when riding extreme events with obstacles (tyres, bolders, tree logs) that i can run up to these obstacles on tick-over throttle and with a little twist (blip) lift the front wheel without it stalling. My former 530 ktm did this as did my 300ktm. I await the dealer inspection and hope i don't need to look at the orange grenades bikes again. I'm not asking to much of the 449 its nearly perfect for me but holding throttle going into corners to stop it stalling is not what i'd have expected from such a great bike.