CRF230F Re-Discovered

I Haven't posted on this CRF230F threads for a while as I decided to get rid of my plated 03 CRF230F after picking up a new Husqvarna TE310. However the economy being what it is my 230 hasn't sold so the good news for me is I took it off the consignment lot and now its a keeper.

I'll probably get back to complete the engine modding but in the interim I need a quick fix for the front forks. My spring sag is fine with a single BBR. However my stock valving sucks as I run through travel and bottom out even on modest jumps. Back shock is a Works so no issues there.

My question: For those who have played with fork oil as an interim solution, what weight fork oil have you all used successfully to help minimize the front bottoming on modest "say 4-foot high" jumps (190lb rider)?

I think your best bet would be to add racetech emulators and 15wt fork oil. That combination seems to work really well for most. Check out the racetech database thread for more details.

what are emluators if you dont mind me asking?

Per BikeBandit.com:

"Race Tech Gold Valve Emulators are tunable valves that sit on top of the damping rods & are held in place with the main springs. They make damping rod forks perform like well-tuned cartridge forks. Simple to install & completely tunable for all conditions & rider preferences".

They run about $150 but make a huge difference and are well worth the $.

I think your best bet would be to add racetech emulators and 15wt fork oil. That combination seems to work really well for most. Check out the racetech database thread for more details.

Yep that's the plan. But I was just trying to work out a stop gap measure in the interim. I have another bike (DR650) that also needs a pair emulators and it also needs one of their new complete adjustable rear shock internals. Racetech will soon be breaking my piggy bank but hell its worth it.

I may go ahead and get the emulators for the 230 first since its getting abused at the local mud pit a bit more lately.

Update: Dumped out the old oil not sure what that was. It didn't have much in there not even close to the OEM specs. Filled it with 15w 380cc in each fork. Can't tell much by bouncing it around the yard so for now it will have wait until I can get to the local mud pit and hit some jumps this weekend.

Edited by T30

The way you're filling it up, pre measuring 385cc, and pouring it into the fork is a method used for the twin chamber forks. you might want to search on here for detailed instructions for 230f forks, which is an open chamber. To fill up open cartridge forks w/ oil , you measure the fork's air chamber with fork compressed,spring taken out.

Yep that's what I did. Forks compressed springs removed. It seems to be OK riding and bouncing it around the woods around my house, but I'll get a better feel for it Saturday. I'm going out to a riding park hit the jumps that bottomed it out last week.

those forks are very similar to the 79 and 80 cr forks we used to run the oil 5 or 6 inches from the top springs out if you are bottoming add a little more oil gradually say start at 6in the go up from there, the theory was that the more oil the less air so the air actually becomes part of the spring action,

those forks are very similar to the 79 and 80 cr forks we used to run the oil 5 or 6 inches from the top springs out if you are bottoming add a little more oil gradually say start at 6in the go up from there, the theory was that the more oil the less air so the air actually becomes part of the spring action,

Did you notice much difference when you changed the weight of the oil?

big difference between 5 and 30 we usually ran about 15

Well the 15wt oil and probebly also adding the OE recommended amount made a big difference. I'm not bottoming out the forks anymore and as a consequance. I'm even hitting the jumps a bit higher now on the CRF230F. I'm rethinking the need for emulators.......but i'm sure I won't be able to resist the temptation,

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