Been on the lookout for one of these trailers for a while now. Haven't seen any come up around home or for cheap, so I paid for one and took a trip to Ft Meade to pick it up. Mods I had in mind are backup lights and an armored dome light mounted inside. Hope to be able to wire them both through the trailer plug connection for a clean install. Also going to mount a toolbox from an M116 across the tongue and two fuel cans somewhere. Then do something to get the tailgate to lay flat like M105's do. My Dad and oldest son went with me so this was a 3 generation load out. Great way to make some memories. When we got to Ft Meade I was glad to find that the trailer was in excellent condition! It went through Rework in July '09 and doesn't look like it's ever moved from it's parking spot! Tires still had the tits on all the tread and underside of trailer is as clean as the inside. This trailer is VERY nice, only marks on it are fork truck damage I was able to straighten the fender out smooth but it's still got the rash. Very happy with this one for sure. On the way home we stopped off at Cracker Barrel for some much needed breakfast and later on in the evening stopped off to let Dad check out the Green Sulpher General Store in WV, which was built in 1854. I found this on a motorcycle ride once by accident and now I make it a point to stop there any time I pass through the area. Once I got it home I went straight to work on the mods. I swapped the landing gear with my M116A3 (flatbed trailer this size but used to carry Generators) cause I chopped about 3" out of it to be able to crank down low enough to get on the wife's Yukon. I'll chop this one too at some point, just didn't feel like doing it at the time. I plan to swap out the 37" tires and wheels for some 33" BFG's I put on the M116A3 as well to make it sit more level when hooked to the truck. I ordered some recessed D-rings from etrailer.com. They look plenty heavy duty enough to hold anything ill have in the trailer. The bolt holes in the backing plates could have been lined up to the holes in the d-ring plates better and the thin plastic bags they come packaged in had torn and a few nuts and lockwashers were missing, but those issues are easily resolved. I almost hated to cut holes in the floor to mount the recessed D-rings, but I can't tie the dirt bikes down without doing it so out came the drill and dremel. I had to cut about an inch off the D-ring backing plates to get them to fit between the floor cross braces under the bed. Cutting the 3 1/2" hole for the D-ring recess was a pain. I went to Lowe's and got a 3.5" hole saw and it worked great for the first hole I used it on, but dulled the teeth a bit and then smoked my drill - literally got so hot I couldn't hold it and was smoking - on the second and third holes. Had to resort to the dremel with cutting wheel to finish the job but it works. Got the D-rings primed and painted with walmart camo green. Once the D-rings installed and they look better than I thought they would. You can see how the backing plates overlap the floor supports, I think they'll be plenty strong enough. Replaced the chain for the tailgate and hung the OE gate latch off it with a threaded quick chain link. I worry about the tabs on the tailgate bending over use though, I'll keep an eye on it I guess. I'm gonna paint the chain green and get some chain sleeves. The pic looks like the chain is swinging but that's actually where the stock chain rubbed the paint on the ride home. Picked up two work lights from NAPA to use as backup lights. Made some joining brackets from the strips I had cut off the d-ring backing plates. I mounted them using the lift points on the rear of the trailer. They look good hanging under the trailer, need to hit them with some green camo though. Took one of my spare Mil trailer cables an removed the plug from it. A 7-pin plug fits over the fat cable perfectly, so that worked out real nice. I poured over the pin outs for the NATO plug, the 7-pin civy plug and my truck recepticle. I've got backup lights under the rear bumper of my truck that are controlled by a factory button on the dash. I ran a jumper from them down to the brake controller pin on the factory 7-pin recepticle to power the trailer backup lights. Now when I hit the button both sets of backup lights come on, truck & trailer. This was done wiring the add-on 7-pin plug to the mil trailer cable on circuit 23, which would be the BO Stop circuit. This allowed running the power wire from the lights across the frame rail and plugging in with a packered connector right at the mil tail lights, using the OE wire harness. Nice clean install. Wired the 12V aux power supply from the 7-pin on the truck to circuit 37, which I plan to use to feed an armor dome light mounted on the front head board of the trailer. Haven't decided yet how to run the wire from the tongue up to the light though. Thinking I'll prob go up the front of the outside of the bed and put a packard joint right about the top of the bedside so the head board can still be removed if need be. I'm thinking the bed floor is gonna be pretty slick when wet or loading muddy dirtbikes. Thinking about having it Line-X'ed but am afraid it wouldn't hold up with the carc under it the way carc chips & flakes over time.