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DR650 Web Cam

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Thinking about a project this winter, been slowly saving up, knowing its probably going to be a big project.

I want to put in a high comp piston and a web cam, not sure what else needs to be done to do it right, and I'm not sure how long its going to take or how much I'm going to end up paying. Any usefull links or posted information about the process and for where to buy the parts would be greatly appreciated.

I plan on buying the Cam straight from Web, but I don't know where to get the piston from. It also says on Web Cam's website that it's ok to use the stock springs, but is that recomended? should I change them? and if so what should I change them to?

Lastly just so you know where I'm at already with my 2009 DR650SE, just last year I put in a DynoJet kit, and put on the FMF powerbomb header and the powercore 4 Muffler. I also am running with a K&N high flow, with the airbox cover removed.

And before I get all the messages about how I dont actually need to do all of this, I'm doing because I want to, and I have nothing better to do with my time during the winter months. And I enjoy doing motor work when i'm bored. And i have plenty of time to research all I need before the winter months, and I already have over $500 saved up, I plan on having close to $1300 to work with on this project. (I hope to god I don't have to spend that much doing this, it lookes like a $500 project from what I'm looking at so far, $207 for the cam, and I'm guessing like $180 for the piston kit)

Anyway, any and all useful information would be greatly appreciated.

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J&E makes the HC piston kit. Pay no attention to their "90-98" year model fitment listed. The piston fits 96-2011 DR650SE's. No need to mess with valve springs with Web's 223 cam. If it's a winter project tear it down and send the core to Web for the regrind to save a few more bucks. Throw away the BST as soon as you can if you want to ride a true thumper. Unless you are strictly a street rider I'd go for the Twin Air foam filter... in fact, I'd go for the Twin Air foam filter regardless. :thumbsup: Put the cover back on that air box... but first go buy the cover retaining nuts that likely fell out. :worthy: The modded air box is superior in all ways to removing the cover.

No need for the excuses... who gives a sh*t what others think?... if you want to do it... do it. And I can tell you that you will not regret the mods. :confused:

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I'm going to be doing the same project this winter. I already have a carb installed and it made real nice improvement, I can't wait to feel what the cam and HC piston will do to my DR. I think I read that you can still run 87 octane fuel with the cam and piston mods.

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J&E makes the HC piston kit. Pay no attention to their "90-98" year model fitment listed. The piston fits 96-2011 DR650SE's. No need to mess with valve springs with Web's 223 cam. If it's a winter project tear it down and send the core to Web for the regrind to save a few more bucks. Throw away the BST as soon as you can if you want to ride a true thumper. Unless you are strictly a street rider I'd go for the Twin Air foam filter... in fact, I'd go for the Twin Air foam filter regardless. :thumbsup: Put the cover back on that air box... but first go buy the cover retaining nuts that likely fell out. :worthy: The modded air box is superior in all ways to removing the cover.

No need for the excuses... who gives a sh*t what others think?... if you want to do it... do it. And I can tell you that you will not regret the mods. :confused:

Yeah I had already been at their website and that did confuse me a little, even though I knew that '96 - '11 were all the same it made me a little cautious.

secondly about losing the BST...after putting all the work into that thing, I feel a little retarded for throwing it out. Though I'm not stupid, I know its shitty as hell. What would you recommend in its place? (because I don't mind doing the job if I'm already pulling the bike apart this winter)

third, as far as the air box is concerned, street riding is pretty much all I do, I actually just love how the DR handles, which is why I bought it in the first place, that thing corners like a dream. But I'll look into that filter idea.

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Wow, thats a cheap air filter, considering I spend around 40 on my K&N I feel like I wasted the money to just replace it to that cheap filter.

Secondly what would I do to mod the airbox? because with that cover on, the bike don't run very well...lol, even with that stupid snorkel removed.

(sorry I haven't done alot of modding on a motorcycle before, this is the first bike I've ever modded, so I'm learning as I go)

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Yeah I had already been at their website and that did confuse me a little, even though I knew that '96 - '11 were all the same it made me a little cautious.

secondly about losing the BST...after putting all the work into that thing, I feel a little retarded for throwing it out. Though I'm not stupid, I know its shitty as hell. What would you recommend in its place? (because I don't mind doing the job if I'm already pulling the bike apart this winter)

You want a mechanically controlled slide carb with an accelerator pump. Like the TM40 or the FCR-MX.

third, as far as the air box is concerned, street riding is pretty much all I do, I actually just love how the DR handles, which is why I bought it in the first place, that thing corners like a dream. But I'll look into that filter idea.

Just the noise alone is worth putting that cover back on the air box.... but the filter will stay a lot cleaner with the cover back on and the top modified. Even if you only ride street it is a better set-up in every way. :thumbsup:

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Wow, thats a cheap air filter, considering I spend around 40 on my K&N I feel like I wasted the money to just replace it to that cheap filter.

Secondly what would I do to mod the airbox? because with that cover on, the bike don't run very well...lol, even with that stupid snorkel removed.

(sorry I haven't done alot of modding on a motorcycle before, this is the first bike I've ever modded, so I'm learning as I go)

Here is the air box mod as posted on Jesse's web site:

DR650AirBoxMod2.JPG

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Thanks dude, that gave me a lot to think about between now and the winter months, and your information was a lot of help, but right now I have other fish to fry. Last year I dropped my bike, and scored up the tank a bit, and its out getting sandblasted right now, so I get to do some fun body work soon :thumbsup::p

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you can't beat procycle's line up of parts for the dr650--they have it all (like going into a dime store as a kid) oh! they don't have those anymore--good prices at PC also--not connected with them and jeff ride's one of these over weight things. get his 780 kit!!

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Just went on to procycle and priced out everything I wanted, would be close to a grand, but it seems it would be about $200 bucks cheaper if I went through Web to get my cam, rather than through procycle, because theirs is 400 and something with no core charge, and if I went through Web, its 207+core, and if I return my core, I have nothing to worry about.

I was thinking about going with the #190 grind, in which case, I didn't see that listed on Web's website, but I wasn't sure if the #190 was a good idea or not.

Wanted to know what other people thought

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Just went on to procycle and priced out everything I wanted, would be close to a grand, but it seems it would be about $200 bucks cheaper if I went through Web to get my cam, rather than through procycle, because theirs is 400 and something with no core charge, and if I went through Web, its 207+core, and if I return my core, I have nothing to worry about.

I was thinking about going with the #190 grind, in which case, I didn't see that listed on Web's website, but I wasn't sure if the #190 was a good idea or not.

Wanted to know what other people thought

If you buy a cam through Procycle you are getting a brand new factory cam that has been sent to Web for regrind hence the higher price. However, if you want to run the 190 cam grind you may only purchase it through Procycle as it is a Procycle proprietary grind which Web does not sell to the public.

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If you buy a cam through Procycle you are getting a brand new factory cam that has been sent to Web for regrind hence the higher price. However, if you want to run the 190 cam grind you may only purchase it through Procycle as it is a Procycle proprietary grind which Web does not sell to the public.

Alright sounds good, I think I'm going to get their TM40 kit as well, seems like a good package, a little over a grand for everything and my bike will be sweet. definitely a good deal for everything, maybe I'll just ebay off my old shaft, I mean by the time I do all this we'll be lucky if there is 4k miles on the shaft.

Side note, I was looking at the website in your sig which had a tutorial on repacking the Q2 and Q4, well I have the Powercore 4 which I believe is the same thing as the Q4? I dont remember anymore, anyway, the tip about the razor blade helped me alot and I got it off, and I noticed the wire meshing against the inside of the pipe was melted against the pipe in four places...I know I have to get that off to repack it, unless I'm retarded here, and I don't want ruin anything, any tips on getting that loose?

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Side note, I was looking at the website in your sig which had a tutorial on repacking the Q2 and Q4, well I have the Powercore 4 which I believe is the same thing as the Q4? I dont remember anymore, anyway, the tip about the razor blade helped me alot and I got it off, and I noticed the wire meshing against the inside of the pipe was melted against the pipe in four places...I know I have to get that off to repack it, unless I'm retarded here, and I don't want ruin anything, any tips on getting that loose?

I have not had a Powercore muffler apart but are you talking about a screen like the one shown below that is against the perforated core? This section of screen over the core on the Q2 is IIRC spot welded to the core. This section is where the cross baffle is. I would not remove any screen mesh that is spot welded to the core. Just repack it.

OAAAAC-cQW6HdfdBf--6R9gSKVdIx98DUyd4bjptzkAIImn7dQSVpjHPWjOtVFjsBsagyYLDkaJ6c18mZgUtzUTvgCMA15jOjFUb_buvVkt8VTFmhDx4YIQuB9-k

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It's not quite like that one, the mesh screen cover is over what looks like packing here's a picture:

100_4823.jpg?t=1305214467

That's why I thought I was supposed to get it off, but yeah it is spot welded, I guess I shall ignore it. but just to show you, here's the spot weld:

100_4822.jpg?t=1305214620

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An opportunity to do some mod's to my '02 DR650 when the cylinder base gasket began to leak.

I installed a Web performance cam, JE 10.5:1 piston and got the cylinder head ported. I also have a SuperTrapp IDS2 exhaust.

Well worth it, a lot more grunt. :thumbsup:

650e-1.jpg

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It's not quite like that one, the mesh screen cover is over what looks like packing here's a picture:

That's why I thought I was supposed to get it off, but yeah it is spot welded, I guess I shall ignore it. but just to show you, here's the spot weld:

Well that's interesting... it looks to be a metal steel wool packing under that wire mesh... I doubt you need the fancy multi layer packing with that set-up. Even with the steel wool packing it will start to deteriorate and pack down over time though. Maybe try just a std repack first. If it still seems louder than before you might try removing the mesh and the steel wool and then use FMF's multi layer kit. :thumbsup:

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Sounds good. I'll order that tonight and hopefully my fuel tank is done and re-painted by midweek, and I'll be off riding again, my late next week :thumbsup:

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Just finished mine. Cam, piston, gsxr/fmfheader, ported it myself. Runs aboit like my old KTM640. Still has stock carb, KTM needle.

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Just finished mine. Cam, piston, gsxr/fmfheader, ported it myself. Runs aboit like my old KTM640. Still has stock carb, KTM needle.

Awesome! It's a very nice performance improvement for the DR650 without going crazy. No wild cam timing or compression ratios with goofed up peaky power bands... just a nice wide spread of usable power. :smirk:

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