Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

Hlebo fork revalve or emulators?

Recommended Posts

Has anyone had John Hlebo revalve their 230 forks? I have seen numerous(too many to count) people go with the race tech emulators, there is even a sticky here that shows what everyone has done specifically for their weight and riding style. To have John do a revalve is pretty much the same cost of the emulators with the added plus that he does all the messy work!

Reviews, opinions?

Thanks,

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We were going to have Bruce Triplett of Bruce's Suspension do our forks but his surgery made that impossible this year. My Al Baker's XR's Only XR265R had reworked DR forks and they were awesome. The emulators have an advantage in that they are very adjustable but the biggest advantage is that they are not position sensitive as revalved DR forks are. RT emulator-equipped forks can blow-off in any part of the stroke whereas a revalved DR fork can not. For most conditions, however, reworked DR forks are nearly as good as a RT emulator-equipped forks. In fact, reworked DR forks may actually be better because they are expertly setup for your weight and riding style, just like John Hlebo's rear shocks are. Either way, you'll be magnitudes better off than with the stock units.

I have spent quite a bit of time with both John Hlebo and Bruce Triplett and both are extremely knowledgable when it comes to DR forks. Most other tuners don't offer DR fork revalving or don't even have people who are old enough to have had experience with them. Bruce or John will do a great job for you. To get the spring rate correct, John will cut the springs and replace the cut portion with steel tube spacers. Bruce will provide custom-wound springs just for your setup. The bottom line is both Bruce and John will provide springs of the proper length with the proper preload and this is very important.

By the way... Bruce is in Statesville, NC.

Good luck...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Vortec,

I should get my emulators tomorrow, but i was planning on sending off my shock tomorrow as well. Only after speaking to John today did I find that he also does the forks. He said the emulators are fine if I like to tinker, which I do, but they would not help the rebound.

I could send everything to John and resell the emulators, but I wanted to get opinions on the revalve vs. Emulators before I made that decision. Should have called him last week.

Looks like for my primary riding style being woods, I should be fine with the emulators?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can compensate for the lack of rebound damping by using at least 15w fork oil when you install the emulators. It is worth noting the 2008 and up forks are a different part number than prior years and exhibit even less damping. My recommendation is 15w minimum as a starting point.

What is your riding weight?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd sure love to know what Hlebo does to tune DR forks. It doesn't seem possible. Seems like the only thing that can be done is drill different holes, but how is that a fix? I don't doubt that Hlebo can make them work good, but I just don't understand how it's possible without blow-off valves. Hlebo sure did a great transformation on my rear shock, so I'd love to feel DR forks after he works on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am around 185 with gear, and my bike is a used 2003 with less than 15 hours. I just bought the bike and have recently stepped down from a CRF250R. After only 30 minutes riding, I decided to make the recommended changes I have read here on the boards. Most notably the suspension.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks Vortec,

I could send everything to John and resell the emulators, but I wanted to get opinions on the revalve vs. Emulators before I made that decision. Should have called him last week.

Looks like for my primary riding style being woods, I should be fine with the emulators?

If you use the emulators, the instructions says to drill large holes through the inner cartridge. WHen you do that, then the internal components can only be used w/ the emulators. That is, once you set up the forks for emulators, you can't undo this unless you buy a new cartridge rod.

My advice is, if you have to mod the inside parts of the fork, you might as well send the forks to John and let someone who knows how to do it, do it. Return the emulators or just resell it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, kinda my thinking as well. I like to do my own work, but I do not have the knowledge or experience to know what I am doing with forks.....just applying what I have read and installing a kit basically. John would be pouring in his years of experience into the reworking of my forks. Time to go wrench them off my bike!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

just cuz its in the same area, i was farting around last night, and couldnt figure out how to get the front number plate off..

maybe i wasnt trying hard enuff for fear of breaking it, but i could get the whole plate to spin around, but it wouldnt come off... what am i doing wrong???

PS - sorry for thread jack

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just remove the bolt in the center top of the plate and lift up. The base just slips over the studs protruding up from the fender mount bolts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:

Sign in to follow this  

×