FCR JETTING. Almost there!

So I got the tt kit installed with no major issues. I followed the carb setup instructions and the bike started up no problem idles perfectly at 1 1/4 turns out on extended mixture screw. The bike accelerates smoothly at idle through about 3/4 throttle but bogs until it gets a bit higher in the revs and pops alot on decel. So I removed the airbox cover and it seemed a little better. I also tried taping the 3x3 hole a bit but that caused some popping during acceleration. So I am assuming I should change out the 160 main for a 155. Does this sound about right? FYI I am running a standard MRD full exhaust, 3x3 hole, and the rest is stock. I am a complete carb noob so if anybody has suggestions feel free.

Edited by Mcaleer1
Punctuation

I'm at 2 turns out on the fuel screw. 160 main. full fmf system. hotcams intake and exhaust. and all the other adjustments have been made per TT suggestions. I also am running rich. I am going to try a 155 main. if to lean ill try a 158. someone may have an exact answer for you, but sometimes trial and error work very well:thumbsup:

o-ring mod.

o-ring mod.

Yes O-Ring mod has been done

Try turning in the ap timing screw in half a turn...

Try turning in the ap timing screw in half a turn...

Sorry for the newbie question but which screw is that?

The screw with green paint...

FCRO-Ring3.jpg?t=1302429145

The screw with green paint...

FCRO-Ring3.jpg?t=1302429145

Lol You seem to be helping me in another thread that kind of turned into the same question I'll just keep asking here. What your saying about the ap screw would make alot of sense, at low rpm the squirt must be too long and causing a bog but at higher Rpms the motor has enough air moving so it's not an issue. I will try this once I get home and post back the results. Thanks

Ok I tried turning in the ap screw 1/2 turn and a full turn . No noticeable difference. Even if I roll on the throttle slowly it bogs pretty bad until about 5000 rpm then pulls very strong. Also this only happens at 3/4 to wot, everywhere else it seems perfect. Please help!

now go a full turn out past the original point. if that doesnt make a difference you need to visually confirm the pump is actually squirting.

now go a full turn out past the original point. if that doesnt make a difference you need to visually confirm the pump is actually squirting.

Ok so I went out past original, the bog got worse so I turned it 2 turns in from original and the bog is almost completely gone. :thumbsup: however the spring on the ap screw is almost bottomed out. Is there a gap that I should be close to or should I turn it until it runs right? Also I removed the carb to modify the choke handle and did confirm that it's squirting fuel.

Does that sound right?

did you remove the pilot air jet? installed the EMN needle?

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