Wiseco install!

Just bought a Wiseco and took down the engine.

There are a couple things I'm not so sure about as far as installing the new piston.

Checking and filing ring end gaps - Could someone explain that? I understand I need to somehow check the gap between the ring ends when they are compressed as they are in the cylinder. According to CoeShow in an old thread the top ring should be at .012" and the lower should be .014". Which ring goes on top anyway? There's a copperish colored ring and a grey ring that came with my Wiseco. Can I not just use the rings from my previous piston?

Honing the cylinder - Is this absolutely necessary? My cylinder doesn't look too glazed (but what do I know?). If it is absolutely necessary then how do I do it?

copperish looking one gose on top and the greay looking one gose on the botom.

as for how you check the ring gap. put one ring on the piston, put your piston into your cylinder and use feeler guages to mesure the end gap and file them accordingly.

as for honing the cylinder, you might as well do so.pick up the right sized ball hone from an automotive store and read the directions that come with it.

copperish looking one gose on top and the greay looking one gose on the botom.

as for how you check the ring gap. put one ring on the piston, put your piston into your cylinder and use feeler guages to mesure the end gap and file them accordingly.

as for honing the cylinder, you might as well do so.pick up the right sized ball hone from an automotive store and read the directions that come with it.

I'd be very interested in seeing how you do this:bonk:

Just put each ring alone in the bore then measure the gap between the ends. If in spec, remove and try the others. If gap is less than spec remove the ring and shorten ends with a small flat file and keep re-checking until gap is in spec. I'm sure there a recommended position in the bore to do this but i'm not sure wether its top, middle or bottom? I personally would try all 3 positions and work at the 'tightest gap' position.

maybe someone who knows properly will chime in:thumbsup:

As for honing the cylinder just use a scotchbrite pad:ride:

Ian

Place the ring in the bore and then insert the piston with the top against the ring. Push the ring a bit with the piston, this will square the ring in the bore. Remove the piston and measure the ring end gap.

You can use this method to check the bore size and taper, with new or old rings: measure the ring gap at several distances from the top, variations indicate taper. The changes in ring end gap is an indication of changes in the bore circumference, so divide by 3 (pi) to indicate variations in bore diameter.

I'd be very interested in seeing how you do this:bonk:

Just put each ring alone in the bore then measure the gap between the ends. If in spec, remove and try the others. If gap is less than spec remove the ring and shorten ends with a small flat file and keep re-checking until gap is in spec. I'm sure there a recommended position in the bore to do this but i'm not sure wether its top, middle or bottom? I personally would try all 3 positions and work at the 'tightest gap' position.

maybe someone who knows properly will chime in:thumbsup:

As for honing the cylinder just use a scotchbrite pad:ride:

Ian

i ant belev i said in the piston:bonk::thumbsup:

i did how ever mean on top of the piston.

would be pretty funny to see this guy follow what i did say.:confused:

Thanks for all the info and tips! Piston should be going in soon if I get some good down time. That scotchbrite pad is about to save me some $$$ :thumbsup:

*EDIT* Oh yeah, forgot to ask. Do I need to check the gap on the "oil ring expander" (The wavy ring) and the "oil rails" (The thin black rings that go with the oil ring expander)? If so, how much gap do they need?

Edited by gabechroust

Anyone have any tricks for removing old gasket? It's all stuck to the cylinder. WD-40 and a scotchbrite pad aren't getting me anywhere.

razor blade at about a 45 degree angle work wonders.

as for the oil rings,no. they do not need to be gaped.

razor blade at about a 45 degree angle work wonders.

as for the oil rings,no. they do not need to be gaped.

Sweet thanks. The razor is making short work of the gasket so far. Woohoo!

*edit* ouch... bring on the stitches :thumbsup:

*edit* ouch... bring on the stitches :thumbsup:

At least you have now 'DNA marked' the inside of the motor for identification purposes if it ever gets stolen:p

PMSL:moon:

How much is the wiseco supposed to give for gain? I haven't seen anywhere the specs on it

How much is the wiseco supposed to give for gain? I haven't seen anywhere the specs on it

Raising compression form 9 to 12 did wonders on my 400 and 600. Not quite as noticeable on my 230 but still well worth the money.

How much is the wiseco supposed to give for gain? I haven't seen anywhere the specs on it

We'll see soon. The Wiseco 11:1 doesn't look like it would be much higher compression than stock. There's a tiny raised area but huge valve reliefs.

At least you have now 'DNA marked' the inside of the motor for identification purposes if it ever gets stolen:p

PMSL:moon:

Hahaha exactly.

Sweet thanks. The razor is making short work of the gasket so far. Woohoo!

*edit* ouch... bring on the stitches :thumbsup:

ouch! Never cut towards a body part, make sure when the razor slips, it wont slip into a body part! lol

I super glued my last two razor blade slices to myself, but they weren't huge gashes, but one was enough to need stitches, but I figure I can build a motor, I can doctor a cut :confused:

always cut toeards your buddy, never towards your body

Good lesson learned :thumbsup:

Now I'm just waiting for the dealership to have the cylinder base gasket in. They said a week or so.

WOW a week for a gasket?!?!?

fail! lol i hate when that happens..

note to self.. order parts before you need them :smirk:

WOW a week for a gasket?!?!?

fail! lol i hate when that happens..

note to self.. order parts before you need them :smirk:

Yeah I know. I expected this dealership to have one in stock since so far they have had pretty much every random part I've ever asked for.

Finally got the dang gasket from the dealership, so I started reassembly.

I'm not finished yet but, holy cow, anyone attempting their first top end on a four-stroke: GET A HELPER. Those rings will give you an aneurysm. After I finally got the piston in, I found myself using my mouth to hold the cam chain as I lowered stuff down onto the cases. No, it did not taste like chicken :smirk:

It's slowly coming together :smirk:

*EDIT*

I'm getting ready to sh*t a brick. I spent a whole lot of extra time making sure the cam chain wouldn't come off the bottom sprocket and when I went to time the cam, of course it was off the bottom sprocket.

*EDIT 2*

First attempt to fire it up:

- have gas, have spark, we're good! *hit starter button* *weird noises and no-go*. "WHATTT???" "ohhh... forgot to put the header back on" haha.

*EDIT 3* started up and ran perfectly. One thing I'm worried about is the cam chain tensioner. In the service manual it says screw it all the way back (unextended) but I was unable to move it at all. I just threw it back in there hoping for the best. Now there is no rattle what-so-ever to the engine like there used to be. Is it too tight? Wouldn't that be bad? Arghhhhh

*EDIT 4 lol*

Oh and yeah I'll be testing the power as soon as I give it a couple heat cycles. Stock cam and otherwise stock engine.

Edited by gabechroust

So did you ever poop out that brick?

I don't know about the cam chain, maybe it will just stretch out? It also might cause excessive wear on the sprockets...

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