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Used wrong oil, seems like there's less pull now

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Hey everyone,

I'm relatively new to dirtbikes and just bought an 09 yz250f, when I first tried it I found it had alot of low end power, then when I took it home and changed the oil I noticed a difference. I had used SAE10w40 car oil, unaware that there was oil specific to motorcycles. I had only gone on one ride, maybe an hour long with that oil and I swapped it out immediately after realizing what I had done. I just want to know if putting that oil in there would cause the bike to pull less even though I swapped it out quickly. I realize that part of the problem could be that I'm more used to the bike and the power, but even on a grippy surface like pavement it doesn't pop up as easily to me. I used a kimpex filter, I assume it makes no difference but I figured I should throw that in there.

This is my first post, so try to be gentle.

Thanks in advance!

Edit: I forgot to mention that when I changed the oil I discovered that both of the threaded holes on the oil tank are stripped, I plan on re-tapping them one size up before going out and buying a new one. after tapping, to remove any excess oil residue that may contain metal shavings in the tank, what type of degreser should I use to wash it out? I don't want to use something that will leave a film and then effect the new oil that I put in.

Thanks again.

Edited by UltimatePunch
Forgot some information.

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I know that the extra additives in car oil can cause the clutch to slip, so perhaps that is what you are feeling?

I think you might be able to save the clutch if you remove it and clean it all off then soak it in motorcycle oil, I know those clutch kits are a bit pricey.

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Although not the best, your short time on the oil shouldn't hurt it. 10W40 generally does not have the "Energy Conserving" friction modifiers that can cause clutch slipping.

Change your oil - you should be fine.

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I have used 10w40 car oil in all the MX bikes I had. Any brand, diesel or gasoline syn or not. The ones that contain friction modifiers are 0w30 or other low densities. Heat can make your bike feel lazier, especially when not jetted for the summer

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Bike manufacturers spend big bucks researching and testing what works and what doesnt work for your bike. Sometimes you can get away with not sticking to whats reccomended. If i were you I would stick to what the manual tells you, that way you wont have to worry if your bike will be okay or not.

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^^^^^ please they get paid big bucks to tell you to run Xbrand oil!^^^^^

Change your oil. Use either a motorcycle oil or use shell rotella T.

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Might be able to get away with just replacing the oil with something without the friction additives.

If it were me, I'd replace the clutch plates... don't know how permeable those additives are to that stuff.

I run Rotella in my moto... over 9000 miles on the stock motor... pulled it apart last weekend and the cylinder looks great, piston's not in bad shape either. Never had a problem with the clutch either (aside from a leaking clutch line).

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we have used 10w40 in all of our bikes and atvs (about 15) for over 15 years. Never had a problem, except on a 2 stroke the thinner atf works better because 10w40 makes the bike lurch because it doesnt ever really heat up and thin out so the clutch plates stick together. It works great in all the 4 strokes though.

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Bike manufacturers spend big bucks researching and testing what works and what doesnt work for your bike. Sometimes you can get away with not sticking to whats reccomended. If i were you I would stick to what the manual tells you, that way you wont have to worry if your bike will be okay or not.

I can't imagine the manufacturers break much of a sweat over determining which oil is best for their bikes since they just slap their label onto someone else's oil.

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Thanks, I appreciate all of the responses, it was def warmer the last time I rode it.. Maybe it just needs some adjustments.

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It's likely that this "loss of pull" is more in your head than anything with your oil.

agree. or some other problem.

and yes, the manufacturers want you to THINK you have to use a motorcycle specific oil so they make MONEY.

Some of the posts were just way off base, any oil that says "energy conserving.. don't use in a two stroke crank case, or the trans/clutch side of a bike that has seperate engine/trans oils. Rotella, great stuff, do a SEARCH.. will find about 1/2 the riders out there use this, any decent quality oil that will work, just be sure it does not have moly additives or say "energy conserving" on the label on the back. It is possible the clutch can slip using oil with moly additives or energy conserving oils.

I think this is the 2nd such thread started today about "what oil" / "wrong oil"..

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Im sure you will be fine. The most important thing you can do if your new to the sport and you are not familar with the bike is read your manual and do a little research before jumping into something. A little mistake can be a costly one. Some bikes like the RMZ's the oil filter will go in both ways, but if you put it in the wrong way you will cut off the oil supply to the engine and you know what happens then. I know people who have done this because they didnt take the time to read there manual. Talk to guys who have been doing it for a while and see what they use. You will find that those who are serious racers are very serious with the maintenance and the products they use. Good luck

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