XR 650L CHain length

[myersb]

I know there are posts for this but can't find my answer. I have a 14T/48T sprockets. What is the correct length of chain needed? 110 or 108?

[HeadTrauma]

110

It's not a concern if you have a chain breaker...

[myersb]

Is 110 long enough? I'm still looking. I know I have read a thread that had the exact length. It would be nice just to buy a chain that was exact and did not need to cut or links added.

[fshnrob]

110 will fit just fine

[Darenative]

110 link chain on mine with 14/48 had my adjusters on # 5 or so, when new.

If I had it to do over again I would get a 112, it would allow me to run a 15 or 16 cs on the street.

[Carphunter]

I just posted in another thread... if I will be buying a new chain, 15/48 is the biggest combo I'll run.... A 112 should be ok for that? And 112 should also work if I go back to 15/45, or run 14/48? (Maybe I should say too, that I have a 5.1x18 rear on... so might have to worry about running into the mud guard if the chain is too short.

Thanks

[akarob]

The stock length chain will work with 14/48.

[Carphunter]

but will it work with 15/48?

My question better asked is:

If one might run 13/48, 14/48, 15/48 or 15/45, Will a 110 chain work? Will the 110 be long enough on the 15/48 so you can actually take the wheel on and off? Would a 112 be too long if used with the 15/45 setup (outside the green zone on the snail?) where would a 112 put the adjusters on 15/45?

Edited May 20, 2011 by Carphunter

[akarob]

Your best bet is to get a chain that you KNOW is long enough and be prepared to take some links out. You should try to aim for the beginning to middle of the adjuster, that way you can make adjustments to tighten the chain as it wears out.

You only need very basic tools to shorten a chain. I've done it with a screwdriver and a file on a picnic table in a campground once. The rivets file off faster than you would think. Anyway, the point is, you usually can't just go purchase a chain in the exact length you need it. Also, if you know how many links you want, sometimes a shop will shorten it for you if you buy the chain there.

[SpudRider]

Your best bet is to get a chain that you KNOW is long enough and be prepared to take some links out. You should try to aim for the beginning to middle of the adjuster, that way you can make adjustments to tighten the chain as it wears out.

You only need very basic tools to shorten a chain. I've done it with a screwdriver and a file on a picnic table in a campground once. The rivets file off faster than you would think. Anyway, the point is, you usually can't just go purchase a chain in the exact length you need it. Also, if you know how many links you want, sometimes a shop will shorten it for you if you buy the chain there.

I agree. ? Buy a drive chain a little too long, and fit it to the bike with the largest sprocket combination you are going to use. Then remove the extra links with a chain breaker. You can buy a good, heavy-duty chain breaker from Harbor Freight. ?

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html

After you figure out your favorite sprocket combinations, you will know your preferred chain length for the future.?

Spud

[Darenative]

but will it work with 15/48?

My question better asked is:

If one might run 13/48, 14/48, 15/48 or 15/45, Will a 110 chain work? Will the 110 be long enough on the 15/48 so you can actually take the wheel on and off? Would a 112 be too long if used with the 15/45 setup (outside the green zone on the snail?) where would a 112 put the adjusters on 15/45?

110 link chain with 15/48 wouldn't work on mine with a new unused chain. I've got about 3000 miles on the chain/sprockets now and I can get the 15 cs on but the chain is to tight.

Get the 112 and if you decide to run 15/45 cut it at 110.

[Carphunter]

doing messing with my sprockets today. I put the 48 on the rear, and then tried to see if I can put the stock chain on it with the 15 cs sprocket. it might have gone, but I could see if I did get it on there, getting it off would be a bitch.

I did a bunch of checking on slack (was making a slock measuring block per an idea I saw XR650L_Dave post a long time ago).

I know on my bike, stock chain with current 5300 mi wear, snails at 25 is tighter than I'd like to see... 24 is what I'd call peak acceptable tightness.

When I put the 14/48 on, I had to go to 7 to get that same acceptable tightness.

[frignhign]

Your best bet is to get a chain that you KNOW is long enough and be prepared to take some links out. You should try to aim for the beginning to middle of the adjuster, that way you can make adjustments to tighten the chain as it wears out.

exactly what I did. I have the same gearing and everyone was saying 110 on here. So I went and ordered 112 not believing these guys. What did I have to do when I went to put it on? I had to take 2 links out! trust these old crusty guys they have been doing it forever. ?

[myersb]

Well my chain arrived today. For a 14/48 sprocket setup 110 length works perfect. I set the chain adjusters on the 6 notch.?

[TN men]

I am thinking of running a 14 front with a 52 rear sprocket Will the stock length of 110 fit? Also any chain suggestions? The OEM seems a bit high priced. I ride trail only, no street.

[gearloos]

I ran 15/48 for a few weeks waiting on my 13T front and had no issues. It was all the way on the adjusters but still had an inch or so play.

[gearloos]

110 link chain with 15/48 wouldn't work on mine with a new unused chain. I've got about 3000 miles on the chain/sprockets now and I can get the 15 cs on but the chain is to tight.

Get the 112 and if you decide to run 15/45 cut it at 110.

I ran 15/48 with a chain with 900 miles on it and had enough play, but that was as much as I would comfortably go. It def. worked ok.

[Carphunter]

I replaced my chain yesterday. when I get time, I can add some better notes.

I used a Horror Freight chain breaker...which I screwed up at first...but now know how to use it to best effect. at some point I'll make a post about what I figured out on how to use it without stripping it ?

When I measured the chain, I measured to use it on a 15/48 and 14/48. I put the rear axle on 10, and then thought I did things so that I would be good to go.

Ended up with a 110 link chain...but when i installed the clip link, clam at 5 made the chain tight, 6 was proper for the 14/48.

I probably would have liked being at 112 instead.

A note for newbs. I've read stuff here about measuring and joining the chain... I thought that since you can only clip inner link to inner link...that inner links are what you are counting (which when I measured would have meant I was removing 5 links from the 120 chain. Well...now I know, you can only join inners... but inners and outer links all count.

Ya live, ya learn.

[jimrick]

Did some searching and come up empty with Daves measuring block doo hicky.Anyone steer me that direction?Thanks.

Jim.

[Carphunter]

If you're referring to my post... basically, once I found tight, and good measurements on with the counter shaft, swing arm bolt, and axle in alignment, I placed a block of wood against my chain slider, and marked it, pressing up and down on the chain so I had an indicator of what "tight" and "good" looks like. I also let the swing arm hang on the stand, and marked the block again with "tight" and "good". this way, when I have it on stand, I can just put the block of wood up, press the chain and be certain I'm not too tight.

I found Saturday when I did all this, factory method of checking tightness gives me about the same readings... so I can use either method.