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How to change fork seals

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Does anyone know if there are any walk throughs on changing a fork seal on an S. I keep trawling for info but don't seem to be either typing in the right words or I am completely missing something

Any help would be really appreciated.

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There was a company selling how to DVD's and they had one on suspenion service..... (motopower video)

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Not sure about what forks you have. If they inverted, you're good. Go on youtube, search rockymountainmc, they have videos galore on how to do things. You probably have single chamber forks which is so easy, you can do it asleep. They have 2, 2 part vids. One for single chamber and one for dual. But without a svc manual, you'll be back on here asking what the proper levels are. 2 tools you will need are the fork seal driver and a fork oil level gauge.

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+change+fork+seals&aq=0&oq=how+to+change+fork

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This will get ya part of the way there. Add a Service manual (OEM not after market JUNK) and you should be ok.. READ, ask, use the right tools..

DRZ 400 Showa Conventional Fork spring swap

One day I'll get around to writing an addition to this specific to replacing seals.

That would be nice. I'm hoping to do my seals pretty soon. I popped off my caps to check the level the other day and accidentally let one of the rods drop in. I used a piece of PVC to fish it back up:

7730bf95.jpg

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The motopower Showa fork service video is good. Except they show the friggin seal orientation wrong. Tension spring in the seal is supposed to face in, not out. But besides that its a step by step deal. That along with the factory manual for fluid levels and you are good to go. But do yourself a favor and do a full service. The tephlon coated bushings, seals, and inner cartridge fluid are a good idea. Its a messy job but its worth the piece of mind to know that everything is fresh and clean and working properly.

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I am looking at possibly doing an oil seal change on my E forks. I have no problems with getting the springs out, my only question is can the seal be removed without splitting the forks? If so how as it is set quite deep.

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I am looking at possibly doing an oil seal change on my E forks. I have no problems with getting the springs out, my only question is can the seal be removed without splitting the forks? If so how as it is set quite deep.

No, they cannot SAFELY be done without disassembling the cartridge from the fork. It's a simple job to do so, requires no special tools.. Then a quick slap of the fork body and tube will "drive" the seal and bushing out.

The proper seal driver makes driving the bushing and seal in painless and easy as well.

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No, they cannot SAFELY be done without disassembling the cartridge from the fork. It's a simple job to do so, requires no special tools.. Then a quick slap of the fork body and tube will "drive" the seal and bushing out.

The proper seal driver makes driving the bushing and seal in painless and easy as well.

Ok thanks. As I have no easy access to an impact gun I take it I will need the tool to hold the damper rod as well as a seal driver.

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Ok thanks. As I have no easy access to an impact gun I take it I will need the tool to hold the damper rod as well as a seal driver.

Yes either an elec or Air impact is needed without the cartridge tool. You can buy the tool from Motion Pro or Rocky MTN ATV.. Or make one.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4897/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Combo-Fork-Damper-Tool.aspx

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Yes either an elec or Air impact is needed without the cartridge tool. You can buy the tool from Motion Pro or Rocky MTN ATV.. Or make one.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4897/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Combo-Fork-Damper-Tool.aspx

Ok thanks. There is a guy here in the UK who makes a damper tool so will probably get his as it will be cheaper in the UK. Or maybe invest in an electric gun.

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Here's what I did when I changed my springs and seals.

Take a coat hanger and straighten it, then bend a loop in it at the end with a pair of pliers just big enough to slip over the damper rod, works fine.

Also, to avoid buying a seal driver, call around to local moto shops till you find one that will drive the new ones for you for the cost of a six pack. I had no problem doing this.

You really don't need special tools. They just cost more money and you probably won't have to use them often enough.

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Also agree on the Rocky mountain YouTube vids. That's what I used. No factory service manual is needed. My bike rides badass now and I used a Clymer.

Don't feel like you need to spend a crap load of money. Too many people in this sport think spending money makes the work better and easier. Not true. I've never wrenched on a bike but found it really was pretty damn easy once I got into it.

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